NOBLNG

I used a combination square to estimate the most forward point of the rear fender bulge. I used that elevation as the center line of the section through that area so that the upper and lower pieces would mate up and only need a bit of sanding to restore the radius.

#1. It’s only plastic so there is little to lose. #2. I started scribing a more radical section on the passenger side, but quit before I went too far. I have a little misalignment on the forward door seam. I should have continued the horizontal cut on the front fender back into the door area, then both seams would have been aligned. I may not chop it at all, but I do want to modify the cowl and A-pillar somehow???

THANK YOU for posting that tidbit! I have never seen that before, but I managed to find it on YouTube. I’ve only watched about half of it so far, but it looks like a great episode and they are doing just about exactly what I envisioned.

Nice work!

Always ask for extra cheese.

Well a wise man said a picture is worth a thousand words and posted this on my ‘36 Ford thread and I’ve wanted to try it ever since. Thanks Jim!

Any progress on this one Mike? Your thread helped inspire me to try it on a ‘51.

I have three of these. Two hardtops and a convertible….so the logical thing to do is get out the razor saw and my panel line scriber. I just got the urge to cut something up.🤪 This is my first section job so I figured I’d pick something easy like this ‘51 BelAir.🙄 I wound up sectioning it a scale 3-3/4”. This is going to be a slow, slump filler project unless OCD kicks in. As usual I don’t have a firm plan of what I want to do with it…just an inspiration pic. All comments or critiques welcome.

I prefer this Gel stuff. It is never “soupy”.

Nice! That looks like one of my better paint jobs.

I cut cereal boxes into 2-1/2” squares (cause they fit neatly in a certain spot) and mix the 5 minute epoxy on the printed side. For the amount of time it’s on there (1 min?) it doesn’t soak in enough to affect it that I have noticed. If I used longer setting stuff I would use a plastic pallet like Len. JMO.

Outstanding build! I like everything you’ve done with it!👍😎

Quo Pro Quid was the basis of the dyslexic attorney’s argument.

Great concept! I like these cars and am looking forward to what you do with it.😎

Regime change can’t happen soon enough.

Looking good Steve! I actually thought it looked pretty good with just the horizontal bars.👍

Welcome back to the forum Rob! I wasn’t around back then but it’s nice to see you still have your father’s models.

Actually Steve, yours might wind up in a museum or model builders Hall of Fame….so maybe you should switch epoxies.😈

They are both correct. Bill may be 100% correct on his assessment of the different epoxies. However his point is moot, because I’m pretty sure that the MGS 285 (or any other industrial epoxy) is NOT available in 2 oz. tubes that the average model builder could hope to use up. I’m NOT gonna buy a gallon. If Bill recommends JB or another better, easily available epoxy then thanks for that info Bill. The 5 minute stuff is plenty strong enough for a plastic model in my opinion…and yes it’s just an opinion.

The 5 minute stuff may not be Permanent, but I’m pretty sure it will outlast me. I’m also pretty sure that none of my models are going to wind up in a museum or modeling hall of fame, so if they eventually fall apart…I don’t really care.😜

My local supplier here in Winnipeg is sold out of both the thinner and leveling thinner.

I imagine they are supposed to look like this.

I just looked too and all I see is a decal.

Model on Brothers!

This is the latest thread I could find. I haven’t ordered anything from the new site and I don’t see the roof listed. You could try putting an ad in the wanted section? https://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/197236-resin-parts-some-are-available-again-former-olson-bros-and-some-new-items/