SCRWDRVR

My brother and I are getting parts together to replicate his car from our youth. He had a 73 Mach 1 that had aluminum slots on it like in this picture (not his car but just like it) He had aftermarket wheels like this on it and the only set in my parts box are 4 lug so I'm looking to see what kits I can pick up to get a set.

I drill holes as I believe most do.....

I was in mine in Delaware today, no paints marked down as of yet...

I have one of the releases of that kit I built quite a while back and the biggest trouble I had was trying to get the flip front to sit and flip properly.

I would be Kenny far to often.....

Good to know, I did finally find the color I wanted in the TS and ordered it, I will be staying away from the PS....

This is an affliction that I don't have a bad case of surprisingly, don't get me wrong I have been know to pull wheels from another kit or hoods to get the effect I want or match a 1:1 I'm trying to replicate but probably 95% of my builds are done with what comes with it outside of BMF, paints and wires and such....

Thanks I will definitely stick with the TS.. Thanks all

Will do, I've never used the Tamiya TS it is an enamel right?

I was looking around for some Tamiya TS-34 Camel yellow and came across some PS-19 Camel yellow. The colors look close but was wondering if anyone knew about the PS prefix and if was something we could use on styrene...

Good to know I'll keep that in mind Never thought of using the pledge, that throws another wrench in the works LOL, I'll have to try that too I am definitely going to have to do some trials to see what works the best, and I guess everyone's opinion of best is different.

I had one like peteski said "curdle" when I added the alcohol. I really like the color base you get with them and they are cheap. I'm getting the feeling I'm going to have to test each paint I get to see what I should use to reduce it rather than having a universal reducer.

I have definitely noticed different paint react different to the different reducers, I have had good luck with just water so I wonder if that would be the most universal way to go about it...

Folk Art is one of the ones I”m working with, I’m trying to reduce it about 50% to spray. I did do one reducing with water and it worked well I just let it cure 24hrs before clearing. That why I want to use the alcohol or washer fluid to reduce that dry time...

Hey All, I’ve started trying out using some of the craft acrylics for my cars and was trying usings 91% alcohol or windshield washer fluid but I’ve noticed that it seems like oil and water like they don’t want to mix. Has anyone else had issues like that? Is there something I’m missing?

Some beautiful fur babies, here are our 4 Buddy, Holly, Benji and Josie

I think the worst kit I have had recently is the MPC Country Charger which is the repop off the General Lee, I'm currently building it and the body is totally awful for clean up and fit. I know a lot of people don't like the Monogram 69 Camaro because the proportions are off but I've always kind of liked it because I think it builds well.

I’m a little farther north in Delaware and I try to not paint outside anymore. I built an indoor booth and I have a thermometer that has humidity on it in the room where I paint because it’s almost always humid here in the summer.

I’ve never had an issue just picturing it in my head but that is a creative way to handle it, never thought of doing that though...

I know you would still end up shipping but you could just put a bunch up here in the trading forum and work out your "trades" in PM I'm sure there would be plenty of wants here.... You both are absolutely right there is a bunch a great people here

I don't see where that would cause any issues in fact the humidity will probably be lower in the cool air also which will help you out some... By the way love the 70 coupe...

I know your not supposed to sell here but I would bet most everyone here would find something they would be interested in or even looking for especially if the cost was a donation to the forum. The possibilities are endless on that an ways you could make the stash smaller...

I personally don’t use setting solution unless there are curves in the area applied that will need the decal softened it makes the decal stiffer and easier to get in the area you want it then once in place if you need to soften a spot to get it to lay down you can put solution on it. I’ve done a lot off nascar kits with just water, patience when applying them is key. You have to take your time and work the water out from under it but you will probably see a cloudy effect under it and that should go away when dry it’s the glue. Also use warm water it works better. I’m definitely no pro when it comes to decals but I have applied a lot of them. Hope this helps

I was in our local HL today and picked up the new "007" 71 Mach 1, I would have liked to have gotten the 70 Galaxie since I don't have one....

I ordered a spool of this and it's great, I've yet to use it but is perfect for those hood pin cables and I'll et other stuff too.... Thanks for sharing...