Claude Thibodeau

Hi Martin! I didn't know about this aftermarket IFS, so I look forward to discovering it trough your project. Your new "lower and longer" stance reminds me of a car that was very similar to the Luce coupe, but was built in 1/1 by an Oklahoma shop. I think they called it the "Chrome shop special" back then in the rod mags. It had, however, a grille similar to the famous Jake Jacob's yellow 3W. Regarding the Boyd wheels that were on the Luce coupe, I saw something very similar in a kit, but I just can't remember exactly which one. I'm still searching, but I'm also getting older by the day, so... Keep on! CT

Hi Martin! Now, THIS is an iconic car. The one who started the whole "smooth look" in contemporary rods. And you seem to have the rake/proportions right in your mock-up. Nice. Do you plan to scratchbuild the IFS, or aim to transplant something? The closest thing to the delicate scale required might be the Buttera's tall coupe IFS. Monogram had one in the 37 sedan street-rod, and AMT in the Phantom Vicky, but both (nice units) are a smidge too "massive" in the a-arm department, IMHO. Just curious... CT

Hi Gerry! That's a beauty, bravo! CT

Hi Oliver! You are mistaken my friend... The root beer car is Steve's. But I'll route the compliment his way. He deserves it! CT

Hi Steve! This picture was found while browsing for ideas before I started the resto process for my friend. If you look closely, it's simple: a 2-door body had the roof cut short and moved forward, including the roll-down rear window bulkhead section. The continuous trunk and rear seat area hence became the "box", and a tonneau cover was fabricated. Working on a real 1/1 car convinced me that it was a fairly simple conversion, even more so because the car has a very sturdy body on frame construction. But my friend chose otherwise. He even fancied side pipes, which was a no-no for me, but... at least, I was able to convince him to remove the Continental rear tire kit that came with the car. The car is seen below. Have a good week! CT

HI! Thank you for a very detailed answer. I have this kit in my stash (Revell's), and I will examine it while paying attention to your comments. CT

Hi Sir! Interesting project, out of your comfort zone... Just curious: what in your view is the "out of proportion" specific problem(s) with the Revell 49? CT

Hi Steve! Very nice. Fomoco should have done it. I restored a 1/1 64 Marauder Breeze-away for a friend a few years ago, and I tried to convince him to transform it in the same way (see picture that I found on the web below). But to no avail. Stock resto carried the day. Oh well... CT

Hi! What a great styling statement. And a formidable mash-up of proper parts. I LOVE the stance. Bravo! CT

Hi! There is great imagination here, coupled to mastery of image software. So... I wonder how you guys would update the first generation Javelin, to adapt it to the 21st century? Make me dream, please! I always found the original design to be restrained and timeless, whereas the second generation was a bloated exercise. So let's stick to first gen... CT

Hi John! What a beautifull combo. World class finish, bravo! Is-it me, or dragsters were more gracious back then? They belong in a gallery, really! CT

Thank you! You confirm my perception. But I wanted to ask someone who should know, and not just trust my eyes! CT

Hi James! I made the jaggered line on this car with Sharpie over clear decal. Coated with Testor's Wet Look clear. Great results, no fade so far... CT

Hi Dave! Curious to get your opinion on the kit's mag wheels. You seem to have swapped them for something else? The Jada wheels appear to be more "squarish" on the box art... with even more offset than your replacements (Pegasus?) CT

Hi George! Most papers are OK. To improve adhesion, I sand it with 3000 grit sand paper (lightly, of course) before printing it. It avoids ink stayin just on the surface, and usually improves sharpness for darker tones. I've also had good results by running the decal sheet a SECOND time trough the printer, after it was fully dried from the first pass (to avoid smearing). It certainly provides for richer colour (see picture below). Finally, I always use the same clear that I will coat the car with to seal the decal before soaking it for application (in light mist coats). This way, I'm certain that the clear coat on the whole car will not cause "silvering" or hazing over the decal surface, due to bad adherence to a different kind of clear used to seal the decal. Good luck! CT

Good luck with your next paint job. Keep us posted! CT

Hi Brian! Wow, first class work, design, and that black paint. Some west coast customs designer of 1/1 cars should be nervous... CT

Hi Juergen! Who said that there is no poetry in model building? You just demonstrated the contrary. Thanks! CT

Hi Roger! Interesting project. I'm jealous that you got one of those Johan Hornet FC kits. They are rare and so desirable... I'll bew following your build. Press on! CT

Hi Chris! I can relate to that. And since I'm 65, daily responsabilities with kids are less intrusive, should I say. Nonetheless, you are right: building a 1/1 car for myself took backseat to commission builds. Last one ( yellow 33 in background) dates back to 2016. Memories... CT

Hi Chris! Thank you for the "recipe". I build real 1/1 rods for a living, and your observations about the flatness of A frames and the arc of 32's are correct. Hence my inquiry. Superb results. Bravo! CT

Thank you Hector! CT

Hi Ray! Superb combo, bravo! This thing would be a blast to drive down the quarter-mile... CT

Hi Chris! Very nice roadster! I'm just curious: did you need to tweak the lower body to adapt it to the frame so harmoniously? It seems to just "fall in place" naturally... CT

Hi Paul! I'm surprised that you report no shrinkage with the solvent based (red-one part) putty. Good for you. But the catalized two-part stuff is supposed to be more stable, because it hardens by catalyst, not evaporation. Usually no shrinking ever. Keep us posted! CT