LL3 Model Worx

That's a very nice stash you have there... I will completely forget about the True blood Rollingstone on the door...lol!!

Lol! Too true! And that's awsome... she's also not wrong lol! Looking forward to seeing the foil laid down.

Very cool models!

Very nice! That T/A looks the business... want better pics.

They all look great but the Impala looks bang on awsome and the Jay Leno GT look fabulous to me!

Those look fantastic... I love the minion garage and the barracuda! Too darn kool! Wait a sec... how did I miss that Merc? DUDE! Those colors are AWESOME!

That's awsome man... my wife got me the Polar lights 66 batmobile with the resin Batman and Robin figures... been on my wishlist for a very long time!! Sadly I just sent of a parts replacement request to round2 for the "bat spinners" for the wheels as 3 of them were missing when I opened it. If it's the 63 vette, it is a pretty strait forward build with a molded promo type tub and such. But can be made into a very nice looking model. I have that kit and it's on my build list for sure! Hope you are having a very merry Christmas!

I wouldn't do a thing to those exhaust tips... black soot would indicate the General is running too rich... not on Cooter's watch! They look fantastic as is!

Mine is similar only much larger and square... it's actually a piece of a shock mount for a peice of machinery.

Yea I'm using the older monogram kit for this build. I'm also doing a bit of kitbashing to both fix issues and "upgrade" the car for the " But it should remain nearly identical to what we see on TV. I've always wanted the Barris Batmobile...tbh. I would daily drive that thing... to and fro work. Just far too cool... heck I'd even take the futura. And that's awsome about the T-bird! Always cool to see stuff like that. There's a guy around here who has a back to the future Delorean. I bet that thing gives him fits! There's also an exact replica of the two lane blacktop 55 around here also.

Bet its carcinogenic

^+1 It has such a look to it.... looks extremely realistic to my eyes... the engine bay/detailing looks great... but the exterior/stance really set it off to the moon. Incredible build and something to aspire to.

I use a very large peice of gum type rubber that has a very fine pumice in it... same stuff good artists erasers are made from to clean my files. I got a block of the stuff for free of an old part at work... I would imagine you could order a block for a few bucks. Works like a CHARM... clogged file goes to unclogged in just a few swipes.

I'm afraid you are right...lol That orange one didn't turn out too bad, it actually looks pretty good. I wonder how much time be spent cleaning that thing up... mine is gonna be some serious time/work to even get it ready for assembly let alone paint.

I know what you mean by it being kitted as "kitted"...with the SBC and what not... But there are certainly some inaccuracies to the film car from the kit. The door locks are on the outside of the door on the kit and they aren't on the real car. The seats in the kit depict the real ferrari seats and on the real car they are stock C3 vette seats... the head rests are the real problem. The headlights on the kit are pop ups like the real Ferrari but the TV car had a clear lexan cover over the inset headlight buckets. And the steering wheel in the kit is like the real Ferrari, and the TV car appears to have an aftermarket of some sort like a grant or momo... or something. But, minor problems in the grand scheme, and I'm gonna fix what I can. I'm really excited for this. My father actually painted a few of these for the show. They were just fiberglass bodys when he got them and he didn't know what they were for until after the fact. So really this is a very special build for me.

I wouldn't be afraid to do the detailed side of the door panel... as others have mentioned use a brand new blade or sharpen a blade on a stone. If you mess up the foil you just peel it off and start over... if you mess up paint, then you are repainting, wich can involve alot of work. I say the foil is the best idea. But I do use paint sometimes. Better to learn now on your first model than to try a technique down the road and ruin something then, this is exaclty what my last few builds have been (test beds) .. at least that's my .02 Go for it man, its gonna look good!

Ouch!! Sorry about the bum shoulder situation... that really sucks! And as far as my kit car vs the actual KITT even outside of SPM....even the real Daytona is still very slow by comparison... However, my cannonball iteration is gonna be packing something "Xtra"... so that it would still be somewhat competitive against any "normal" vehicle in such a race... no stinger missiles this time out! Hope you get the shoulder worked out and can get back to building COMFORTABLY!

I have that MPC GTO.... picked up at Ollie's for next to nothing, I think $7 It is an utter dog... the body on mine has so much flash that is so thick I may need a saw or dremel to remove it. The rest of it I didn't even look at after seeing that... Hopefully its decent for a few parts, but I'm not holding my breath.

Thanks Steve. Life is too short to sweat the little stuff...lol

Ate some yesterday

OMG do it!!! Please do it! Skip straight into it....Double dog dare you!!

No problem Steve... that's why I stated at the beginning of my post that it was just my opinion and that individual mielage may vary. Heck theres more opinions out there than products to apply them with... so why would I be upset if someone disagrees?

Very nice!!! Wish I could be that productive lol!

I'm not much of a spray can guy, I like to decant... You have already received alot of good info as far as the what's and the hows... Tamiya is great a stuff in a spray can! Testors is great stuff in a can also, but the can and the nozzle and lack of pressure should be illegal to sell to people imo.... the paint itself is great though. But, as far as needing a primer... This is all my personal opinion that I've formed from my own experience ymmv. A mechanical bond is required for all paint to adhere well. That mechanism can be achieved in two basic ways. In regards to styrene, paints using "strong" or "hot" or "fast" solvents such as certain lacquers or enamels reduced with Lacquer thinner will etch into the plastic chemically to some degree , thus creating a mechanical bond to the plastic. Essentially it chemically sinks its teeth into the plastic... primer is usually unnecessary in this case (unless for body work or color reasons) as it is simply redundant and an added thickness that could be better spent on color or clear for polishing out later... as far as durability, if you are using a primer that's just as "hot" as your paint and not hotter, why would we expect its bond to the plastic to be any better than the color paint itself? After all primer is just a more course paint. As far as Acrylics and other paints with very mild (alcohol, mineral spirits) or even no solvents at all, the chemicals aren't present to etch and create the mechanism... in this case sanding and a primer or just one or the other is used to give the surface to be painted the "teeth" neccessary for the paint to adhere well. In a nut shell... strong solvents create their own "teeth" and the other stuff needs those teeth to be on the painting surface before application. Man, I rambled... sorry.

I use these... I bought a bunch of them when they were on sale. I have 1 dedicated to a build at a time... the rest I use for organizing various spare parts.... engines/wheels/tires etc... I have some small ones for this purpose also. Keeps my stuff safe and out of the way of Murphy's wrath... not to say I do not make the occasional sacrifice to the carpet monster... can't be avoided I don't think.