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TransAmMike

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Everything posted by TransAmMike

  1. According to Scale Finishes web site both basecoat and enamel are acrylic enamel. True about the "wet look". It looks great in terms of shine but just doesn't look realistic, especially on a more stock appearing car. I would say for a customized show car its almost a necessity tho. Just my 1cent worth (2 cents would be a stretch LOL!). So now that my old 74 y.o. brain is scattered, I don't really know what to do. ??
  2. Great interior and flawless undercarriage there Eric.
  3. Good to know Bill. Probably worth a try.
  4. OK Dave thanks. So no real preference huh. I'm now kind of leaning towards the Scale Finishes acrylic enamel mostly because of (1)the hopefully color match and (2) not needing to clear. What I don't care for is the deep or heavy look of the clear over the color. Just doesn't look realistic on models to me.
  5. I too am looking forward to your build. I have Tamiya GT2Road Version to build in the future so I'll be following along closely.
  6. Just curious Dave, what is your choice of paint?
  7. Probably will get a lot of good input on this question. That paint over the BMF kinda scares me. My luck I'd mess up the paint job.
  8. Well I did find the Scale Finishes link concerning application. Both "basecoat" and "enamel" are acrylic enamel and of course the basecoat needs a clear coat. Their clear is acrylic enamel. I don't know what the difference is or why if both are acrylic enamel one needs a clear and the other doesn't.
  9. Well I'm glad something has come out of it. Still need some Scale Finishes questions answered Guys.
  10. Sorry Guy's, I feel like I have opened up an ugly can of worms here with this Createx thread. It started with a general Createx question then evolved into a specific color issue then into a bit of a acrylic versus other medium as well as cost issue and so on. I kinda feel like I'm being a bit of that pain in the behind about this. And now I'm wavering to Scale Finishes because of the specific color and completely getting away from the intended discussion. With that being said, I now have questions about using the Scale Finishes products so here goes. Is the basecoat paint laquer or enamel and as I'm assuming it will need a clear topcoat. Would I be better off using the enamel and not having to clear? As I have previously said, I think the Krylon primer as I have used in the past seems to work real well. Sould it be OK with either, or if the basecoat is laquer, I'm sure I would need a laquer primer. Anyway, I do appreciate the advice.
  11. Well actually with shipping and tax $16.75 for the Scale Finishes basecoat, about a $1.00 more for enamel. As I have said, my deal with acrylics is easy clean-up. BUT NOW, after all this discussion you guys' know a heck of a lot more than I do, maybe I am leaning toward go for the Scale Finishes. But should it be the enamel or basecoat?? And what about the amount of metallic because as I can remember the Saturn Gold on my former car was not a sparkly type metallic. And with basecoat, what clear? Do I need theirs?
  12. You're most likely right there Dave. I guess I'll live and learn and may or may not learn to regret it?
  13. Don't still own that Cut;ass I spoke of Eric. In a weak moment I traded it in on a new at the time 260Z. Crazy huh.
  14. For anyone that doesn't know or are interested, Scale Finishes has a sale on a lot their enamel and basecoat paints.
  15. You nailed that build Tim. Wonderful job. It takes a special appreciation for those cars to wanna do one or own a real one.
  16. Gonna be another great build like your '69 Cutlass.
  17. Great looking Cutlass Eric.....you beat me to the punch on that build? I'm doing the same thing for a 71 Cutlass S W-31 like the car I special ordered in '71.
  18. Wai a minute here? Ollies had Testors Extreme Laquer??
  19. Well I'm sure this doesn't "fly right" with a lot of you guys but I guess being on limited income I'm a cheapskate. I can't see spending $18-26 for model paint when I feel like I can get at least "close enough". Also, I am looking to do acrylic and and there is also the too much metallic to think about. But I do appreciate everyones's opinions and advise.
  20. Thanks Dave, I'm thinking if that Createx gold is just a bit too golden colored, it could be "toned" down some but with what color?? I'm sure a lighter primer or a base coat maybe of white would make a difference. You're right, its gonna take some experimenting.
  21. Looking good there Robert. Pretty blue and love those Cragers. I'm down to me last set of Cragers and will use them on my '71 W-30 hooded Cutlass. But, for the life of me, I can't remember if on my real car back in 71 if I put Cragers or Torque Thrusts. I special ordered it and it came with poverty caps.
  22. Yes, that is the Createx color i'm considering. It may be a little bit too gold but if you look at the numerous pictures of the early 70's Cutlasses and 4-4-2's there is a variance, but that could just be the different camera settings and lighting. ??
  23. I do know there were no pearl paints in the early 70's and that the Saturn Gold that was on my car was metallic. I'm with Steve in that as far as I'm concerned any automotive "touch-up" paint has too much metallic and I too feel like the pearl would give it a more "in-scale" look. I think Createx has a metallic and a pearl in a gold color fairly similar (but not exact) to the Saturn gold but without trying them who knows really how close. My wife who I met when owned the car back in '71 is adamant (LOL) it HAS to be the correct color.
  24. Well not too encouraging. I think the sheet I ordered comes in Saturday from an ebay seller (hobby shop).
  25. Looks terrific in and out Gareth. I see you are in South Wales so I'm pretty sure that wood grain material isn't available in the U.S. but does anyone know of a similar product in the States? Building 2 early 70's Cutlass and they have a good bit of wood grain on the dash and side panels.
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