ksnow

I like this a lot. Just getting to know more about gassers the last couple weeks and this is an inspiration.

Seems like the rule book changes over the years moved the classes more towards going fast, than running what you brought or keeping the class "pure". But, they weren't exactly nostalgic like we are. They were doing it for the first time, going fast was the primary concern.

Great analysis Draggon. In my limited reading over the last several days, topless cars were in their own classes, unless a hardtop was on.

Looks like some had to be nose high just to clear the headers. Nice looking models, guys. I think I have a 51 Chevy in the stash that just might have to be built into one of these. Yes, Ace, I was asking about body to frame lift. It didn't appear that way in any of the photos, but I figured I'd ask anyway.

Nice job, Love the license plates.

It was the little testor's bottle. Only lost about a third of it. At the rate I use it, it will probably go bad before I use it up.

I tipped over a bottle of turn signal red. Luckily no models parts were contacted. It just looks like I bled all over the bench now.

Almost unbelievable that kit made it through USPS unscathed.

Was there any body lift on these? Or does it just look that way with the bigger rear tires (and trimmed quarters) and raised up front ends to level it out. Some of them look taller than modern 4wd pickups.

Hi all, I've got one of my next builds selected, the AMT 70 1/2 Baldwin Motion Camaro. The decal sheet does not include the white body graphics. The photo of the real car on the box shows white graphics with a fine line border. The built model pictured on the box just has the white graphics, with no border. Is there an aftermarket or later set of decals that includes the white graphics? Also, any other issues with this kit I should be aware of before I dive in? Thanks.

After a VERY cursory glance of the GK web site, a gasser build has moved up my list of projects. I love the back yard ones, just normal guys with normal jobs who want to drive a fast car. Neat to see the small details. Things like mismatched front and rear wheels, towing setups, and almost level stance at rest. Paint jobs ranged from some pretty spectacular graphics to what looks like rolled on house paint.

Thanks for the headsup. That GK website is an absolute treasure trove of primary documentation. When I do decide to build one, I'll definitely be using that for reference.

Thanks for the link, I'll check that out. I've been watching Southeast Gasser's Association stuff on youtube, very cool stuff.

Great information guys. I admit I am woefully ignorant when it comes to drag racing history and classes and so on. I love watching drag racing, just never paid that much attention to the details. Force, that bothers me also. Actually any time people use words for things that aren't accurate it bothers me. If a car doesn't meet gasser rules, its not a gasser.

The weathering detail looks great. I remember seeing as lot of Camaros like that here in the salt belt.

I'm thinking that crank centerline is a wee bit more than 24 inches off the deck. Pardon my ignorance, what is the small tank on the front of many of these cars?

Yeah, I figured that would happen. Guess I was wondering from 935k3's post, if I future'd over the decal, let it set up and then cleaned off the satin black area with ammonia, would that help the silvering. I'm okay with the way it is, at least I know how to remedy it in the future. Maybe some day I'll find a replacement decal sheet, strip the hood and try again.

The silvering is on the black satin part of the hood. Would future penetrate the decal and clear it up?

I finally got the 65 Chevy cab to sit all the way down on the frame. Little filing there, sanding a bit, trimming a piece or two. Finally went together enough for me to glue it and the bed on.

I want to thank everyone for their help on this topic. I finally got the courage top tackle the body stripes on the gsx. They turned out awesome. Not sure if I can do anything to improve the hood stripes that have the ghosted edges, but at least I learned.

Great information guys, thank you. I can't say I'm a huge fan of the really high nose look. Even level looks a bit off to me, bit function over form when it comes to racing. It's really interesting to learn the history of weight transfer, tires and camera tricks.

Why is the front end so high on gassers? From the info I can find, it has to do with weight transfer on takeoff. I guess that makes me wonder why the front high stance went away and we don't see that anymore. Are cars better balanced weight wise today that they don't have to lift the front ends? Thanks.

Thanks espo, these are 20ish year old decals. I can definitely see brownish adhesive around the decal on the sheet when I soak the decals in water. I will try wiping all of that away before I place the decal. I do keep cotton swabs, a brand new x-acto blade, toothpicks and paper towels handy when decaling.

Thanks guys. I was thinking the satin finish had something to do with the visible edges. I'll try the glue idea for the center caps and start trimming the decal edges closer. I'll have to find some solv a set and give that a go.

I am to the point of applying decals on the Revell/monogram 1970 buick gsx. I started with the small center caps on the wheels. For the life of me, I could not get them to settle into the cap or get the edges to lay down. The next day I tried to trim the edges with a brand new x-acto blade and the decals fell of the caps, like they weren't even stuck at all. I also applied the stripes to the hood, and there is terrible hazing in the clear edges. The hazing is much more noticeable on the satin black center of the hood than the yellow sides. If I wet the decal with a swab, the hazing clears up, but reappears when dry. I am not using any setting solution or solvent, as the instructions say the decals are not compatible. I am using warm water and wetting the area that the decal is applied. I apply the decal with wet fingers, then use cotton swabs to dab the water away while positioning the decal. Any helpful hints to make the hazing disappear and the decals adhere better? Next up are the large stripes, and I don't want to mess them up. Thanks in advance.