Pierre Rivard

I am in Montreal, Francis in Quebec, so your go to places. Hurry across the border before tariffs kick in. This grand meeting would be good for US-Canada relationships... show the big guys how it's done. Oops... hope the censors are off today...

OK, making my first call... anybody know what this reservoir and lines are for. Guessing it may me part of oil system of oil distribution to external component like the roots blower... but I'm just guessing. What I know is that it is not related to the brakes as they are mechanical actuated.

One more component on the engine right side done. The coolant pump greaser (sort of...) loosely located above the dynamo. Plumbing and wiring will come in later after paint & assembly. Starting on the left side I fabricated the roots blower clutch linkage and loosely fitted it behind the carbs. On the real car the actuator is linked to the gas pedal. The pedal's very last portion of movement (pedal to metal mode) pulls the linkage to engage the blower clutch. Extra 80HP thank you!

Thanks Ken, yes a little bit of damage to fix or hide Internet is my friend and I found good material. However I have come up empty on components external to engine and the various hoses & hard lines so I'm trying to replicate stuff I don't fully understand. I'll try my best. Thanks Andy. I almost skipped on doing these but I knew I'd end up regretting it... Getting started is the hardest part isn't it. I don't understand all the components and associated plumbing but time to forge ahead and make stuff.

Tamiya primer comes off the can so good doesn't it. No longer available in Canada. The good old days... What's the plan for the rear end... with the joint where there will be no bumpers to hide it?

That suspension is so so good Francis, and functional at 1/25 scale. Put the dime next to it friend, to put it in its proper perspective.

Way way cool Daniel. It's these little things (literally) that delight when looking at a top notch scale model. I would have figured you would have gone to the sewing kit but I guess even the smallest sewing needles would be too big for what you want to do here.

Huge progress. How does it look now next to your Fujimi body?

I agree with Force. Scratches are the least of your problems with this kit's body. Revell did not do a good job with this body moulding: sink marks, deep mold lines and the roofline shape is too flat. All fixable but plan to sand, fill, sand again and prime...

They are all gorgeous Phil, and with wonderful diversity. I know practically nothing from pre-war cars but the last one really gets me fired up. Who knew a beige car could look so menacing! I love it and greatly admire your work.

The right side of this engine is pretty bare, and obviously incorrect. The engine is depicted with looks like a starter, which of course this engine does not have. The M06 engine had a water pump, dynamo and magneto driven in series through a shared shaft. Most times these were covered by a panel making a big bulge to the side. Some engines did not have the components cover with a flat block side fanning out at the bottom to reach the wider oil pan. I'm going that way. The period drawing shows the components I will try to replicate, but first the "starter" has to be chopped out without doing too much damage. The common thread is the shaft and I will be using 1.2 mm rod, which slides well into 2.4 mm tubes which in turn slide well into 4.0 mm tubes The water pump is first, starting with wrapping half round 1.5mm around a drill bit and then gluing around a piece of 2.4 mm tube. the 90 degree feed is a bent piece of 1.6 mm rod. The dynamo was simple (so just one pic of it through the build). A 4 mm tube core, a 3.2 mm tube portion with a 2x2x2 block on top and 2.4 mm tubes (about 1.5 mm length at both ends. 0.25 x 1.0 mm starts will be added. Again this construction will allow the 1.2 mm drive to pass through. I only have one picture of the in progress magneto. I was so absorbed by the search I forgot to take more photos. The ignition on the M06 engine came from a Bosch twin spart ZR6 magneto and twin plugs (left and right of the block). I started by a 2x2x3.2 block core, a 0.38 x 3.2 flat horseshoed to it to replicate the magnet. On the entry side is the gear drive enclosure made of a short 2.4 mm tube (guess what goes into that?). On the other side of the magnet/condenser unit is a small 2 mm rod replicating the duplex coil and on top a combo 4.0 & 3.2 mm assembly for the 12 ignition wire feeds. Again 0.25x1.0 mm straps added over the magnet. The whole magneto measures 9.5 mm. Glad it's done! Finally last pictures show the completed 3 components and the assembly loosely installed to the block. The water pump grease feeder still needs to be added on this side of the engine

Thanks Maxx, we are starting right now!

Well, the frame will be OOB. No fancy brass and aluminium here, you are in styrene territory!!! I'll try my best just for you neighbor! 😃

Trust me friend, this one needs to be a whole lot more than OBB. I got all the Evergreen stuff out and ready to go!

These are beautiful. Amazing that they would go racing with pretty much a stock road car in 1960. How times have changed...

A perfect example that the hobby is a pastime so what's the rush. Your obsession with accuracy, detailing and finishes right down to the exact texture or gloss level has produced this stunning lifelike replica. Congratulations Steve, this is the ultimate expression of quality over quantity.

Hi Tommy, facing the same situation as your's I have converted my final decal seal coat from Future to Quick Shine about 2 years ago and I like it very much. Even easier to brush on than Future. Warning: it is not good over clear parts so I save what little I have left of Future for that. These two have been sealed with Quick Shine

Decals were just from spares (racing number & not much else for this one). Great choice going with the Cunningham entry. Dunlop racing wheels, fuel cell with roof filler, fuel injection, dry sump system and so much more. Now we have a project!

Fabulous group of builds. I admire your work because your models always have such a high level of realism.

...and the engine is not so bad. If I can do this with it with a bit of scratch building no doubt with your skills you can take it to a much higher level.

Happy holidays Andrew. I have built this one. Not a bad kit but certainly not a Tamiya. I chose to do a racing car without bumpers so that brought it's own challenges. I made plenty of mistakes and would love a do over now that I know (starting with better wheels & tires). For sure you'll take this kit much farther than I did but still here's a link to my WIP. Perhaps it will help spot areas of concern.

So many builds yet each one is a unique complex creation. The only conclusion I can come up with is that in addition of being very talented and immensely creative... is that you never sleep! Amazing year. Félicitations cher voisin!

What an incredible group. You are very talented.

Fantastic variety. They are all beautiful but the wagon with the wood trim is very special.

Rich, the Sharknose looks fabulous already. Opening up the intakes and adding mesh will look great no doubt. Andy, looks like white metal will be ditched in favor of a more elaborate resin cast. More work but your gig is getting all the details reproduced so this should be great to follow as always. Super combo build. Happy holidays guys!