Dpate

Tamiya, ERTL, and than Monogram. Don't care if the tamiya kit isn't 100% accurate or not. Box art I'd def take monogram first though if i wanted just the box.

AMT has some good quality kits under there belts, but there also not consistent at all. Certainly better quality wise than MPC and Atlantis, but they will never touch Tamiya or other's quality. I'm not stuck on one subject matter so that doesn't affect me at all as I've never been that type of person with anything even with music. The one problem with this hobby is there is to much of " It's part of the hobby' or " You're not a modeler if you can't do a hard kit". Folks have accepted the quality of a company for so long, and not complain why would a company/s change? But each company has there strengths, and weaknesses, and have a little bit of everything to offer folks no matter what there subject matter is. But when it comes to plastic motorcycles, and exotic cars, boats, and planes, and armor leave that to the Japanese kings of the hobby. Everything else just leave to to the re-issue kings.

I don’t a email from them. Just go to there site, and go to where it says contact us on the bottom of the page. Once you do that fill out the info and send.

I've never had an issue with gravity colors (spain). I've emailed them couple weeks ago when i had a broken bottle of paint come in, and they responded within a day or so, and shipped my bottle of paint out few days later.

I use this set up quite a bit and get fantastic results. The light weathering carrier removes any extra glue no problem.

https://www.pacepaintbooth.com/

Yeah green stuff world is good too, but chasing chrome will have you spend alot of money for only a tiny difference. Green stuff world, Alclad, spaz stix all three in proper color matched lighting are all very very similar. Might be a slight slight shade difference between the 3, but that's with good eyes too, and would still be hard to say which was which to the untrained eye. I own GSW but rarely use it, and my 3 go too chromes are Alclad, Spaz Stix, and Kustom service. I don't even debate about which one I'm gonna use that much because the difference is very negligible, but all 4 are great chromes to spray.

I can vouch for Alclad and spaz stix being durable and i bake everything i paint. Molotov is a ink and after you apply airbrush or not if you touch it you'll lose the effect bout like AK's super chrome they've came out with. They don't need a black base as they can go over anything, but i still prefer Alclad, and, spaz stix, and even Kustom service chrome all give fantastic results if you spray them properly, and handle well if cured properly. The AK super chrome i basically just use for detail work as it's the same as molotov if not better, and both work great too using a detail brush. Molotov is best known for graffiti, and is over priced for what it is for this hobby.

I didn’t think about caulking the inside of mine. Might get some clear n try it out, but you’re gonna love the booth.

Never was part of any fish forums even though I'm part of that hobby myself. But the worst I've seen is the PC building community - there's so many elitists it's unreal.

I have the Tamiya pin vise and there drill bits all sizes. I would love some god hand drill bits.

Yeah I've done it with 91% with no issues. I've also used a weathering carrier product thats for removing weathering products and specific glue etc with no problems. That's for the BMF, but molotov not sure. 2K is tough stuff though so i doubt you'd hurt anything.

I'm not sure how or why that works, but i know the airbrush version never gave me any issues over alclad black base. That's the only gloss black base i use for everything chrome or metallics that needs it. Glosses up like no bodies business, and don't even need a lot of it. I have tried spaz stix black base before though, before finding alclad's gloss black base, and i couldn't get the spax stix black base to gloss up. The 2 bottles i had of it i threw in the trash, and never looked back. SMS is great stuff so if there chrome works for you, and give you the results you want? Than that's all that matter.

Have you tried alclads gloss black base? Spaz stix works great over that.

Got these on clearance at wally world. $7 bucks good deal as i would of never paid full price for it. $10 is a great deal for the mixer as it's my 2nd one.

Yeah I think I’ve seen them here and there with a .5. I had got mine off Amazon new and it came with a .3 so maybe there’s two versions of the same brush out lol. I’ve even seen them packaged with the air hose too, with other extra stuff.

Yeah the eclipse is a power house for the price. Mines still going strong after almost 2 years, and never had to change a O ring. I did convert mine to a .5 though, but thinking of getting another one eventually to have a .3. I probably should just use my PS-290 procon more since it’s a .5 with fan pattern nozzle, and just convert my eclipse back to a .3 lol. If you’re ever in the market for a .2 the procon PS-270 is fantastic, and only $100 at spray gunner. I use it strictly for super thin metallics chrome etc. procon series made in the same factory as iwata in Japan so all great quality.

Got this at ollies. WOW it has so many amazing vehicles and nice detailed pictures and information on them. Pretty good for small references, and of course i took a pic of my fav car Looks alot nicer in person - nice glossy pages with over 1000 images.

You and me both man. I would LOVE to have this kit as well, but it's so expensive sigh.

RIP Wayne ?

I know aoshima will not ship spare parts or anything to the states by order unless you're a business. I remember someone on here mentioned about some kit on here can't remember which one, but for folks to check there kits to see if they had a warped windshield. I already had this kit for months, and checked it, and sho nuf windshield was warped because of how it was molded. They sent me a whole chrome tree and new glass parts that i didn't even ask for all for free.

Iwata airbrushes are made out of Japan. From my understanding there made in the same factory

Yeah that would def be fool - proof lol

I generally dry sand everything except when it comes to clear coat. I always wet sand especially when going higher grits, and it doesn't take a lot of water. To much water can actually hinder sanding performance for example micro mesh using to much water can work against itself, and i would never use that type of sandpaper dry always wet. But if you're getting the results you want dry sanding than do just that - because there's no set in stone rule that you have to wet sand. It's all just preference like how you're using novus and i use meguiars ultimate compound.

If you want factory colors for older cars etc than MCW & scalefinishes is the way to go. Shipping from gravity colors in spain isn't that expensive, and there paint averages around $5 for a 30ml bottle. There customer service is great too replaced a broken bottle of paint that happened during shipment no questions asked. I think GC in spain parted ways with the guy in USA, but i could be wrong cause he rips people off, and never sends any product. But since OP only does hotrods etc GC wouldn't really serve his purpose when it comes to options.