rattle can man

Scams are getting real bad. I've been getting those. And the "you have a package that could not be delivered" scam, and a scam claiming to be from my bank. when I see a weird weblink or phone number with a foreign prefix it is instant delete.

Hopefully. But it could also mean they are reducing shelf space.

Revell '49 Mercury custom goes together without much effort.

And the rocker panels are different. They were -re-rolled so that the actual race cars could sit lower (has to do with how NASCAR rules measured the ride height). If I recall correctly, both of those kits had the Talladega parts. In typical fashion, both kits used the same body shell. If you want to build an exact replica you will need to re-do the rocker panels.

That Caddy needs a supercharger on a Caddy 572.

I believe some of those sports cars are DTM as well as WEC. Could also be one of the cup series (Porsche cup, Ferrari cup, etc.) or other touring car series.

Nice! I sure wish the kit MFGs would do some new AMC stuff (not just variations on the Pacer and Gremlin).

A small hawk flew three feet in front of me while I was planting my onions.

Aleene's also makes a Turbo -Tac version of their glue that sets up quicker.

It's been decades since I worked in a body shop. Those who are currently in the 1:1 bodywork world please correct me if I'm wrong. There are different primers designed for different purposes. If your primer is intended as a filler or a sealer, it is thicker because has material to fill imperfections and needs to be sanded smooth. Further, it also is usually porous, which is why you sometimes see primered metal rust. A primer-sealer on the other hand seals all of the underlying materials to help prevent splotches and give a smooth, even surface for color coats. If you sand a sealer and break through to the paint under it primer, you may see splotchy color coats because of the different porosity.

This thread caused me to splurge on a kit from an auction site. Lindberg release, either severe tire melt or someone used way too much glue on the only assembled parts, the wheels. Also tire melt on the bed cover. So it shall be a hot rod stake body this time, since I've done a hot rod tow truck and a chopped, fenderless hot rod

I've been using old cd cases for mixing palettes.

Me. Nice day so I went out to do some spring cleaning of my shop. I found a set of connectors I could have used to repair the mower after I wasted time and money yesterday finding and buying some.

1) how hard it is to find a simple, generic 6 pin electrical connector to replace the bad one on an old mower. The only part listed for that mower is an entire wiring harness, and they are no longer available anyway. 2) spell check/ auto correct.

Very nice build! No hood sides definitely gives it a hot rod look..

I've heard of using clear paint to attach photo-etch parts. I've never tried it. At least it wouldn't damage the paint like glue could (provided the clear is compatible with your finish) or be as noticeable as a glue blob/ mark.

I have a few of the Willys kits in the non-Malco release version and a set of aftermarket decals for one of them, that is why I asked.

Does that Kent Fuller dragster have a Chevy engine? And is that the only option?

Like the article mentions, the chemicals might damage the plastic. And who knows what it would do to resin parts. Standard sanding and polishing would remove any surface oxidation and restore the whiteness. But I don't think there is a permanent solution.

In addition to the saw and Dremel tool you have, there are also several different saw blades for standard X-Acto handles. And there are also photo etch blades for the same handles. I keep some of each on hand for smaller cuts. Photoetch saw blades remove less material than standard blades, but they do bend easier.

Mustang or Willys?

Really liking this build. You are tempting me to build a custom truck.

For me, the ideal ratio would be 8 hrs of each.

hmmm.... can you say hot rod Fergusen?

Got in an hour of yard work and 5 hrs. of bench time.