rattle can man

Does anyone have a trick for getting decals to release from their backing? I tried some older decals last night and even after 5 minutes in warm water they would not release. I was able to carefully rub the paper backing off, but it sure was tedious and I did have a breakage.

my local recently started carrying them again. But like the picture shows, nothing of interest.

did this one ever make it to Under Glass?

I'll pass. I'd rather watch a live race. Hollywood hasn't made a good movie in a long time.

But stopping for a green means they could get rear-ended by someone not expecting it. Or they hit someone when they decide to go and someone turns left at the same time.

minor pet peeve, but people who stop for green lights.

It really depends on the car and build style. But I can say modern big wheels don't work for me at all.

Except the old kit I bought online had tire melt on a fender, the bed cover, and the wire wheels. And there are some large-area low spots on the roof. very tempted to just put it back on the shelf.

Is it overspray or paint getting under the masking? It sounds more like paint getting under the masking. If that is so, use quality masking material, make sure the masking material is burnished down really good, and apply some clear over the masked and unmasked areas prior to applying the second color to seal the edge of the masking material. Then after the color coat has dried enough to handle, run a sharp blade along the edge or the masking before removing it to prevent lifting the new color

India ink?

That is one way to do it if you want to keep the fenders. Dropping the cab like that gets a lower overall height; If you try to channel the whole fender unit, you have to deal with tire clearance and suspension changes. For my build, I've chopped the top roughly 3scale inches, channeled the cab over the running boards (like pic #4), and will use a lowered suspension. Nice and low, full fendered, and still "drivable".

Nice score Modeler named Mike! I would love to find one of those kits. Daniel, where can one find those parts online?

You might try other acrylic floor care products on some scrap clear parts.

That cab is definitely heavily modified. I would say the cab has been channeled over the splash pans. I just started the process on a Lindberg '34 pickup. it's an easy way to retain fenders and still lower the overall height.

Home Depot website lists them. They list them as moulding shears.

7-way nail buffers are nice for large areas they range from course to polishing grits on one foam block.

Just another part that will be expensive to repair when it fails?

My rose bushes and ornamental grasses " bit" me multiple times yesterday while trimming them. I guess I should know enough to wear gloves.

That's why I asked. I know about the Kona, but wasn't sure if the Kuna is a one I hadn't heard of.

From a big box hardware place, the description says it will cut PVC and other molding materials. Since it is a chopping type of tool, not a saw, I presume it would crush tubing but work for solid stock.

just a bump to move this back to the front, with the upcoming anniversary of the Oklahoma City bombing. Never forget the brave people who help to protect us.

My build will retain the cammer. It takes a Ford to get a Chevy to move!

Kuno or Kona? A cursory search didn't turn up anything for a Kuna. I did find one shot of a Kia mini truck, but that's it.

bottom left looks a bit like a steering wheel.

Have you tried Hobby Link Japan (HLJ)? Tuners were never my thing, but HLJ definitely has the Japanese market cars covered. I've ordered from them twice with no issues.