rattle can man

I can check tonight. I believe I might have a pair. Hockey keeps interrupting the fights. LOL.

looking good! The weathering is perfect.

Mr. Softee trucks used a blue and white scheme. mostly white with a blue grille and lower body. But as far as I know, they used van-based bodies

Thanks Rob! I don't have the App. I just get the channel through a certain streaming service.

I just applied some 50 y.o.l. decals I coated with liquid decal film. I tried Solva-Set after applying the decals, but the decals look a bit silvered even on a shiny finish. I think if i would have used the Solva-Set under the decal it might have done better. As it stands, I will try poking some holes in them with pins and try applying the stronger setting solution in hopes it will wick under and do its job. I think the silvering is due to the old decal adhesive going bad.

There is a thread in WIP drag racing that links back to the NHRA rules for the '50s-'60s on the H.A.M.B.

Thank you! I have: the body shell with nothing that attaches to it; Interior is complete except for the top of the dashboard; And all I have from the chassis is the frame/ pan and what appear to be two skid plates/ belly pans; two wheels and tires.

IIRC, the rules called for stock bodies initially and Wings and spoilers became legal later. Just like Fiberglass, changes to engine setbacks, etc.

The Palmer models were a physics experiment. They wanted to see what the subjects would look like near a blackhole so they used equations developed to make calculations based on theoretical physics of blackholes.

It's a funny thing how people feel about the weather. I find the older I get, the less I can stand the heat. Arthr doesn't really care about the cold, just extreme weather changes. and they occur whatever the temp is.

After h parts, < it looks like I will be building my original and possibly cannibalizing the new tool for parts.

When looking for parts, check for interchange. Check for an owners forum online to find good parts sources and tips on interchange. Manufacturer's tend to use parts they already make across multiple models. You might have to order the parts for two different models to get the lengths you need, but as long as they fit, it doesn't matter. I shop for Mazda 323 parts for my Festiva. The majority of the time the parts fit. but there are also parts from other Late '80s and newer Fords, Mazda's, and Mercury's that fit too.once upon a time I had an Aerostar that used the same front suspension parts as a Pinto/ Mustang II

How close are the Revell 612 Scaglietti and 599 GTB Fiorano? I have a partial 612 kit (no clear, engine, suspension, rear bumper, chrome, or hood). There is a partial 599 on my favorite auction site that could get me most of the parts I would need if they would be close enough to work. I've looked at instructions for both on Scalemates and it looks like it could work.

Phone menu circles. Called a company today to request a copy of a document navigated through their menu 3 times and never got to talk to a person. Or what I needed for taxes

Found a radio station to stream the four Nations tournament's final game.

For once, I actually like big wheels under this one. At least those anyway.

Finding quality parts takes research. For my '93 car and truck, I won't buy brake parts from anyone but one store. All of the less expensive stores and the parts fail in a year. Knowing what interchanges can help. I find searching for various Mazda parts much more successful than searching for Ford Festiva parts. Finding a shop to work on them weeds out a lot of shops. They simply don't know how to handle anything without a computer scan (can you say OBD 1 and counting the flashes?). But finding the small shops when something is beyond my skills is getting harder. Thankfully my vehicles are reliable and easy to repair once I find parts.

'41 Woody and '48 coupe?

720 degree vision? interesting.

nearly 60 next week! but -14 tonight, before any wind chill.

A good solvent cement should weld all of the pieces into one piece. Since super glue and epoxy are physical bonds (they don't fuse the parts into one piece) the back of the joint with mesh will help strengthen the joint and keep it from cracking breaking. Just like real fiberglass repair is reinforced with a few layers of cloth and resin. Either method should work.

Don't tell my partner I'm pleased, but a house my significant other really liked at an online real estate site sold a day after she found it. I liked the house, but it didn't offer much for me to do. no space for model building. no space for a garden. no space for tinkering on 1:1 cars. And in small beach town where fishing/ seafood is the main industry. Absolutely nothing for me to do aside from sit around.

No offense intended to the Chevy guys, but perhaps someone was smart and put a Ford drivetrain in it? Says the anti-Chevy guy. Who plans to re-power all of his Chevy powered model kits with anything other than Chevy engines.

There are some 0ld WIP threads on the forum on builds of this kit. one has some good pics on how to make better hinges.

A rollback with a '70s IH pickup cab. Looked like it was hauling an '80s AMC-Renault. Couldn't get a pic since I was navigating a round-a-bout.