rattle can man

As someone not up on GM products, what other cars shared the platform? it's possible someone did repairs using quarters an rear panels form something else to save the car since replacement panels are rare. Just my 2 cents.

Bring back the MPC Ford 4x4 van. More Mercurys, Buicks and Oldsmobiles. Studebaker Hawk, Hudson Terraplane. Packards of any year. In other words something besides the same old subjects. Not all at once just issue one a year in addition to all of the same old subjects being re-issued. re-tooled.

flames and scallops were often used to hide repairs or custom work so you don't have to deal with re-painting a panel or whole car. I say improvise with some scallops, flames, panel painting, etc.

Also got a '64 Old convertible to donate parts to save a '62 Cutlas body.

found at Harbor Freight today. Haven't tried them yet. sizes are not marked on them, but there are two of each size.

If you live in the north, salt can do a number on just about anything. As for finding a good shop, it is hard. Alignment shop ripped the new boots I installed when rebuilding my front end. Another shop repaired a temp sending switch and filled my tires to 45lb. On an 1800 pound car. Rational: the tire sidewall said to and there was no sticker on the door. Almost bounced under a semi like a basketball. Another shop cross-threaded the screw for the distributor cap.

Free at last! cleared to drive and do light stuff as I get the shoulder back up to strength and range of motion. Time to sneak up on longer work bench sessions, with more than one arm.

Why dwell on the negative? The world keeps going no matter what so be happy.

Thank you Misha!

I use Krylon flat and gloss black. For chassis black, I use cheap dollar store gloss black. It is a good semi-gloss finish. I've given up on Rustoleum, I've had to dispose of too many partially used cans because they stop spraying.

Nice build. Where did you get the valve cover decals? My funnycar build is on hold until my shoulder recovers from surgery ( at least another 2-3 months). I had a paint issue and am trying to figure out how to get past it. The silver I used to seal the orange did not dry on the hood and roof and are reacting with anything I try to overcoat. I know it didn't dry because it clogs sandpaper really fast and I can smell the solvent if I sand it. 90% Isopropyl won't strip it, so I will try the purple pond next. I just don't get why it is only two spots that did not dry. Yes I cleaned it before paint.

I'm thinking of ordering one. Opened the link and it did not ask for any information until checkout. When you check out, they make you create an account ( enter your email and create a password for their site) just like many other retail sites.

my HL finally got the 1960 F-100. almost bought one Monday, decided against it (I will never build everything I have, so why buy another kit?), then bought it today.

I think it looks like it is going on a bit on the dry side and does not level out like it should. When the paint hits the surface, some of the solvent that would normally allow it to "flow" anf level out has already evaporated and there is not enough of it to allow it to level out and give you a smooth, glossy finish Perhaps experiment with a shorter distance between can and subject. Or wait for a day with higher humidity. Alternatively, you could try the good old standard sand and polish to get the shine back. I would advise experimenting on spoons before mixing brands of paints. to under stand what I am suggesting, find something you sprayed with flat paint and a successful attempt at gloss paint. run your finger or fingernail over the surface and you will feel the difference in texture. That texture on the flat paint is why decals "silver". I bet if you tried to decal over that finish, the decal would silver.

Does anyone have experience with 3d files form Yeggi or had them printed from one of the vendors they suggest for printing?

I build whatever I'm in the mood to. If it is a subject I'm not familiar with, it's research time.

I haven't really had any issues with the three cans I've used this year. I'm not a chemist and just making guesses: What does the painted surface feel like? Smooth or rough? If it is rough it might be partially drying before it hits the surface and thus won't level out to give you a shine. Perhaps heat or low humidity are partially drying the paint.

Nice build. And glad you are back at the bench having fun.

I'm not holding my breath either. but until something new and interesting comes out, I likely won't be buying anything. I have plenty of hot rods, drag racing, mucle cars, pony cars, etc. Besides, I will never build everything in my stash anyway.

As a diehard anti-Chevy person, I would buy that Monza. And hope someone would make a conversion to a Buick or Pontiac version.

For those of you complaining about the quality of older kits, I understand your point of wanting more detailed, modern kits. But if those old kits are the only option to build something otherwise unavailble and I can afford them, I will settle for them.

yes, after the first try with tubing and rod , I switched to using a saw after l used the chopper to make a slight indent to guide the saw. But I still would like something with a less flexible blade.

I have the Chopper, and I find it does not do well on thicker materials (square, rectangle, round, etc.) and crushes tubes. The blade flexes, so you don't always get a straight cut on anything other than flat stock.

yes to '60s Darts and Valiants!

brown sugar in the chili. and if you only have habanero, you need a few other peppers for some depth. When I make it for me (she can't take the heat) I use ghost or scorpion pepper, habanero, jalapeno, de-arbol, Aleppo or Turkish red pepper, N.M. chili, and cayenne. And if I feel like it, maybe some hot sauce.