rattle can man

Solvent cement for styrene, CA for non-styrene or when I need a quick bond, canopy glue or Alene's Turbo-Tak for clear parts.

That clay idea sounds great. I'll have to file that away in my organic library (brain). I can see using it when fabricating/ modifying parts too.

Thank you everyone. A jig / fixture sounds like the way to go. With lots of clamps. And maybe a little heat. I'll get around to experimenting once my garden is on semi-autopilot.

newer releases or those that the MFG has recently repaired the molds for will likely have less flash and better fit than those re-issued form older, worn molds. Not to mention better engineering.

Leaf springs with one curve are easy, just like you said. But some transverse spring have a total of three curves. One over the differential for clearance, and the remainder `of the spring is curved the opposite direction so that the ends can bolt to the outer ends of the axel housing. think Model T. Or two mirrored "s" curves I'm guessing maybe some kind of jig.

I've tried searching for a thread on how to make transverse leaf springs and haven't come up with anything. I found a tutorial on making parallel leafs, but how do you accomplish the additional curvature of a transverse spring?

Up for trade I have one Monogram 427 Vette roadster. appears complete except for instructions. body brush painted and some parts assembled Matchbox/ AMT branded '72 Chevelle SS 454. no tires, steering wheel or taillights. Mostly assembled. some extra chrome parts from another Chevy. No idea if the engine is correct for this kit, as I am a Ford person. Looking for show car and custom parts kits/ built ups.

Looks like Testors metalic green to me.

Scams are getting real bad. I've been getting those. And the "you have a package that could not be delivered" scam, and a scam claiming to be from my bank. when I see a weird weblink or phone number with a foreign prefix it is instant delete.

Hopefully. But it could also mean they are reducing shelf space.

Revell '49 Mercury custom goes together without much effort.

And the rocker panels are different. They were -re-rolled so that the actual race cars could sit lower (has to do with how NASCAR rules measured the ride height). If I recall correctly, both of those kits had the Talladega parts. In typical fashion, both kits used the same body shell. If you want to build an exact replica you will need to re-do the rocker panels.

That Caddy needs a supercharger on a Caddy 572.

I believe some of those sports cars are DTM as well as WEC. Could also be one of the cup series (Porsche cup, Ferrari cup, etc.) or other touring car series.

Nice! I sure wish the kit MFGs would do some new AMC stuff (not just variations on the Pacer and Gremlin).

A small hawk flew three feet in front of me while I was planting my onions.

Aleene's also makes a Turbo -Tac version of their glue that sets up quicker.

It's been decades since I worked in a body shop. Those who are currently in the 1:1 bodywork world please correct me if I'm wrong. There are different primers designed for different purposes. If your primer is intended as a filler or a sealer, it is thicker because has material to fill imperfections and needs to be sanded smooth. Further, it also is usually porous, which is why you sometimes see primered metal rust. A primer-sealer on the other hand seals all of the underlying materials to help prevent splotches and give a smooth, even surface for color coats. If you sand a sealer and break through to the paint under it primer, you may see splotchy color coats because of the different porosity.

This thread caused me to splurge on a kit from an auction site. Lindberg release, either severe tire melt or someone used way too much glue on the only assembled parts, the wheels. Also tire melt on the bed cover. So it shall be a hot rod stake body this time, since I've done a hot rod tow truck and a chopped, fenderless hot rod

I've been using old cd cases for mixing palettes.

Me. Nice day so I went out to do some spring cleaning of my shop. I found a set of connectors I could have used to repair the mower after I wasted time and money yesterday finding and buying some.

1) how hard it is to find a simple, generic 6 pin electrical connector to replace the bad one on an old mower. The only part listed for that mower is an entire wiring harness, and they are no longer available anyway. 2) spell check/ auto correct.

Very nice build! No hood sides definitely gives it a hot rod look..

I've heard of using clear paint to attach photo-etch parts. I've never tried it. At least it wouldn't damage the paint like glue could (provided the clear is compatible with your finish) or be as noticeable as a glue blob/ mark.

I have a few of the Willys kits in the non-Malco release version and a set of aftermarket decals for one of them, that is why I asked.