Bainford

I usually leave enamels at least a month before cutting & polishing, all of that time spent in the dehydrator. Construction can happen slowly at my bench, so not uncommon to spend more time than that curing. The issue with enamels, as mentioned somewhere above, is it forms a skin as it dries, and this skin inhibits the drying/curing of the paint underneath it. The heavier the coat, the worse the effect. As long as paint smell can be detected, the paint is still gassing out and uncured. I have found, though, that after a few days to a week of drying, the full cure can be sped up significantly by wet sanding the body with the first grit of the cutting process to remove the outer layer of the skin, then popping it back in the dehydrator for a few more days. The continued out-gassing occurs much more quickly then. A few years ago I painted an MGB with Humbrol enamel thinned with lacquer thinner. The body had no fine detail, so I laid the paint on a little heavy to have plenty of material for cutting & polishing. After at least two weeks in the dehydrator, the body still had the faint scent of paint, so back into the dehydrator for five more days. After that, there was still a hint of paint smell, but with a deadline looming I decided to have a go at colour sanding. The colour sanding was going well, working my way through the starting grit, when suddenly I got a strong smell of fresh paint. Wiping the water off the finish, I found a dime-sized darker spot on the middle of the deck lid. Touching it lightly with a toothpick, the paint transferred easily to the wood. After nearly three weeks in the dehydrator, the paint under the skin was not only uncured, it was still wet. I continued to work the rest of the body just enough to remove the skin, then popped it back in the dehydrator. In two days the paint was solid and cured and exhibited no paint smell.

Cool! I wish the exhaust sounds were better quality. It's not every day you get to hear a Bentley barking.

What do you think they feed the lab rats.

Coming along nicely. Looking good all foiled up.

Ditto! I had the same thoughts regarding Ford vs Ferrari, and for that reason I still have yet to watch it. I'm told it's good. I'm sure I'll see it someday, but I'm in no hurry.

Very cool project. I am definitely watching this one.

That is one cool Torino. I love the tough but understated look. Very serious. Nicely done.

Really digging the Woody. Very nice work. Classic period style. Love it!

Cheers Greg. Decent prices, too. I'll check locally next time I'm in town.

Cool idea. I have two of these in the stash, and one of them is destined to be a hauler also (and the fire fighting stuff transferred to a Ford C-600). I think the A LaF would make a neat hauler, but I'm having trouble coming up with a suitably cool race car for it to haul. Looking forward to seeing your project once it gets underway.

Nice clean work. This is going to be cool.

Welcome to the forum, Mark. Grumpy's Nova will be a cool project. Enjoy the forum.

Excellent. I'm watching.

I may be quite wrong, but I am under the impression that Zero paints are a lacquer, and a somewhat hot one at that. Is that true? If so, all the more strange that it doesn't 'bite' the plastic. Your application process seems good.

Mark, I never cease to be utterly amazed at your encyclopedic knowledge of kit and car minutia. I just had to say that.

Days of Blunder.

That's cool, Pat. I would love to see this kit in 1/24. I can think of a ton of things I could do with that.

Superb work. Looking great.

Nice tutorial. Some good, useful information there. Thanks.

Welcome to the forum, Andy.

Cheers Steve. I think I was thrown by the term 'hood scoop'.

Yes, those are factory cowl vents. Fujimi Pantera Gunze Sangyo Pantera

No idea, but it looks like really nice gear.

Welcome to the forum, Josiah. Some beautiful models there. Looking forward to seeing more of your work. Cheers.

A little more detailed info on this 'blow back' problem would be helpful. By 'blow back', are you referring to bubbles in your paint cup. I am not familiar with the Paasche Talon, but on many airbrushes this is an indication the head or nozzle seal has been compromised.