Bainford

There are probably different ways of going about this. If this was my build, I would trim away the BMF from the inner parts of the window frame, the portion that forms the face against which the glass is placed. This is just for tidier BMF work. Either way, in this situation, I would have no qualms about gluing the glass to well applied BMF. Visible glue is always a problem with window installations such as this. I think I would try clear paint as an adhesive, applied carefully to the window edges. It may also be possible to fit the glass in place first and cleanly flow some Future into the joint. I have a build on the go on which the windscreen fits in this manner. I have been playing with mixing white glue with black acrylic paint to make a black windscreen adhesive, similar to the mastic as used on 1:1 cars. I have done some experiments with the glue mix, but have yet to use it on a windscreen installation. Regarding the rear window, I think I would sand the edges of the glass until I had a nice fit, which mimics well the way in which the glass was fitted to these GM cars.

Cool! I can't think of the last time I saw one of these built. Great save. The zebra interior completes it. Nicely done.

Very nice and tidy Road Runner. Love the colours. Well done.

Good looking Dart, Mike. The 340 Six-Pak is a nice touch.

Welcome to the forum, Lily. East Coast Canadian here, good to see more Canucks on the board. The Ford is looking nice, cool colour. Enjoy the forum.

Yes, very good to hear.

Cool tow truck!

That's a fine looking hauler. Great period look. Love it!

I just love this little Suzuki. I would love to have this in 1:1. It appears well geared and ready to roll. Nicely done.

Lovely build of Gentleman Ned's Galaxie. Great looking stock car. Nice work.

Nice build. The '72 Plymouth was one of Petty's coolest.

Great looking race car. Very fine detailing all around. You captured the period vibe nicely.

Welcome to the forum, and welcome back to the hobby. Always good to see another Lotus on the forum. This kit is a tough one, for sure. One issue with this kit, as you've likely noticed, is it rides too high when build straight out of the box. No worries though, good looking Lotus. If I had one piece of advice; dump the Rustoleum and get yourself some Tamiya paints. They are very user-friendly, lay down thinly, and look great.

Great haul. Lots of really cool stuff, there. I'm really digging the Jo-Han swag. Where does one find this stuff?

Welcome to the forum, Jarno. Good to have you aboard.

I use Mr Surfacer 1000 or 1500, which is basically a lacquer-based liquid filler/primer in a bottle. Since I started using this stuff, I no longer fear scriber-slips; I just apply a drop on offending area, let it cure, then sand it smooth. A quick and easy repair. Note that the Mr Surfacer does shrink quite a bit as it dries, so I place a thick drop right to the damage to be sure there is enough to fill the slip-mark. If not, a second application is quickly and easily done. It dries quite quickly and sands back easily. For ragged panel lines, I have had some success painting the Mr Surfacer into the groove, letting it set, then carefully scribe a cleaner line. It may help to do this after the stuff has set up, but before it cures fully. Some experimentation will be required to get the timing right. Success may depend on the quality of your scriber. For panel lines that have been scribed right through the plastic (when you didn't want it to), the best bet might be to glue a strip of .005" thick plastic sheet to the inside of the body at the panel line to give the groove a 'bottom'. Then, if necessary, clean up the groove with some Mr Surfacer. Mr Surfacer feathers out very nicely. I frequently use it as a final step to any significant body work or putty work. It fills any small scratches and pores in courser fillers. After the body work is done and the filler sanded back, I apply a final coat of Mr Surfacer (just brush it on) then sand it smooth once it cures.

That's an impressive model. I like the graphics, has a nice clean look.

I am really digging the little Suzuki overlander. That thing is COOL!

Beautiful Shelby, Gustavo. Very clean, and that red just pops. Love it!

Superb '40. Very nice work. Great details all around, and nice finish, to boot. Oh, and the stance is killer. Very well done.

This is looking great. Classic colour.

This is shaping up to be a beauty. What airbrush did you get?

After all the body work, filling, and tuning is done and I'm ready for paint (by which time the body will be pretty much covered in primer already), I give the whole thing a light coat of primer, enough to ensure even colour all over. I then let it dry for a day, wet sand completely but lightly with 1000 grit, rinse thoroughly under running water using a soft brush to clear out the panel lines. Then I remove the bulk of the water with a lint-free cloth (to avoid mineralised water stains) and let air-dry completely. When it's time to paint I give the body a quick wipe with isopropyl alcohol and let that dry while I mix up the paint and fire up the compressor. If the primer goes on a little heavier than I like (which sometimes happens as I still apply primer with a rattle can) then I will block-sand across the panel lines during the final wet-sand, though if the primer coat is light, this shouldn't be necessary. The block-sanding across panel lines, however, is always a part of my initial bodywork and prep.

Just catching up with this thread again. This is an excellent example of stellar model building. Very impressive work here, and you are maintaining a very high degree of realism. That Lenco is a work of art.

Interesting kit and subject. Are you going to put curtains on the windows?