horsepower

One of the model aircraft manufacturers produces a 1/24 scale Spitfire with a well detailed Rolls Royce Merlin engine that the Griffon was derived from. That's about as close as we're probably going to get for a well detailed engine, but with a little research we can come up with boats that ran the Allison if that's the way you'd like to go.

Round 2, did you notice the subtle hint that we'd like the other Pony Cars released in this same format? You have now set the standard for U.S. manufacturers to meet, keep it up. As long as you're producing kits like this we'll beat a path to your door to buy them.

Good looking ride you have going their, a family friend had a '32 back when I was young and I still remember that like it was yesterday. Bright red with red and white Tijuana tuck and roll interior and white headliner and interior panels with red piping and a clean little flathead with Canadian aluminum heads and two carb intake. Red steel wheels, wide whites and chrome spiders and lug nuts, with a three inch dropped front axle to drop the front down low enough to frighten the occasional gopher who stuck his head up out of the weeds. The one zany thing they did as high school boys was someone had picked up a handset from a pay phone and painted it the red to match the truck and ran the coaxial cable under the dash and built a cradle off the bottom of the dash to hang their "in car phone" with short Smitty glass packs it had the sound to match its looks and left an indelible impression on a young school boy. The rest of the story is the owner enlisted in the Air Force in '62 and put it in storage on blocks, when he retired from the military he took a job in the private sector back east and left the truck in storage until he retired from that job in the early years of this century and returned home to his hometown and his truck. After opening the storage space and removing all the quilts and blankets used to protect it, it was in surprisingly good condition and after a good cleaning and doing the usual oil swap and gas tank clean out the little flatty fired up and ran. After rebuilding the carbs and having the interior restitched (the way most of those Tijuana jobs saved money and time was the use of cotton thread that rotted away pretty quickly) he's debating whether he wants to have it brought up to current standards or just leave it as a time piece from the past to show the younger generation what rodding was REALLY like in its infancy. Me? I'd keep it waxed up and drive it as is. After all, how many of us can step back into THEIR high school days and not have almost anything change (his high school sweetheart is his wife of almost 50 years).

Personally I don't care if they issue it with a crayon drawing, or a plain brown box (they'd be saving money that way) as long as what's inside was good. After all it's the contents not the box I'll be building and displaying, and like I hinted at, a plain old box would save the money spent on artwork and printing and would leave more to be spent developing a great kit.

Love the Miss Budweiser, is this the 1/25 scale version? I've always wondered if the AMT chrome Allison engine would have more detail than the one in the kit, or even to use it as a diorama scene of a race day thrash to change engines, I also thought it would be interesting to have the one being replaced to be sitting in a cradle dockside with a nice inspection hole in the block and a few of the excess parts hanging out of it.

I was going to switch to LED's, but did you know those little dash bulbs are $10 each for LED replacements? And there are 17 of them!.

If they were able to repair the tooling for the '65 from the AWB funny car into a stock wheelbase dirt stocker then they should be able to return it to stock status, if they can use the ElCamino tooling for the repairs that would work.

That's one job I'd probably volunteer to do for just the cost of a free lunch, come to think about it a little bit more, I'd be willing to do it for free if I got to choose which kits were pulled for production first. On the Pinto kits, somewhere MPC either sacrificed a body mold or made a new one for the one they used in the Modified series, but there's two problems with thinking they sacrificed an existing tool, one is that the tooling for the Pinto sedan kits from MPC all had the deluxe body side trim and that's not on the Modified body, not even door lines or the edges of the trunk opening exists, so it points to a totally new body tooling. The other argument for all new tools for the bodies in that series is the '34 Slammer Coupe. To my knowledge MPC never released a chopped '34 Ford that they could have used the tooling for to produce that body. So maybe there's a little hope. But it is possible they did some surgery on the Pinto sedan tooling for production of the Pinto pro stock kits that were produced, but since they did do some kind of repairs to the '64 Galaxy kit to resurrect it from the Modified Stocker series to its reissue as a production stock vehicle (even though it was a promo style) kit.

Kind of interesting that the last picture shows all of the detail parts for the full detail chassis, AND the chassis for the snap kit curbside on the same parts tree. Confused yet? ??

Just a quick question, who decides what the intention of the builder is when posting a build? It's hard to read minds, and when the build is called a truck in the title of the post it's a little hard not to classify it as a truck. Even in the 1:1 world if it was a truck originally and is still recognisable as a truck it's classified as a truck. Even the T type fad rods are broken into truck (having a bed even if it is only to hide the fuel tank) and roadster, (anything without a pickup box.) So we have to submit to the "rules" if you don't think it's aa truck, don't call it one when you post it.

I had a request for a hood to the Foose Challenger that went a couple of months before I heard anything and then it showed up in the mail box. Imagine my surprise when I opened it and it was a beautiful Corvette hood, same part number wrong kit, when I emailed them about it and told them the problem (now almost six months since the first request) they wanted the order number and I thought I was SOL since I deleted it when the package arrived (that will teach me to not wait to open shipments) but then I remembered I still had the wrong hood in the package it was shipped in and still stapled to the packing invoice. It had the number he wanted and I was relieved to see that I hadn't screwed up, the request and the invoice had the proper kit number, it was the same day that I heard back saying he'd found the order and would get the hood out right away. It was in my hand in two days along with a hand written apology for the mistake. Now, as to the Ramcharger problem. Since this is a different release this time, (no boat) and is in a smaller box do you think some of the problems could be that the packaging is wrong? I no it takes an engineer to get some of these kits back into the box so the top will fit without warping the body, and if they're having a problem, it would be more than a coincidence that the two kits that had warped bodies had the same production date, as the kit that the replacement body probably wasn't to far away from. It might be that they're addressing this issue and are just waiting for the next shipment to see if it was corrected. My advice would be to send an email with all the pertinent information, I'm proof that in the long run patience will pay off.

Thanks guys, guess the local plastic pusher forgot he was going to call when they came in and it's been a couple of weeks since I have been through looking for a fix. Time to pay a visit, and I knew I shouldn't have looked at Tims review again, I am really having a hard time waiting until he opens now, gotta buy, gotta buy!

Been seeing the full detail kit from Round2 on eBay, both in red, and white plastic but has anyone actually spotted any on the shelves yet? Especially the white plastic version, I think it's kit #948.

I wish the gauges on our full size '92 Silverado were this bright and easy to read.?

I want a plastic body to work I'm going to build a version of a dirt stock car we raced in the early seventies and would rather work with plastic, for the model of the one I drove when I first started dating MCW has a perfect one, it's a Malibu, non SS and even has a bench seat, for finishing I'll use one of the Z-16 kits they have everything but the small block engine, ours had the four speed and posi-trac but with a bench seat and without the gaudy SS trim. I think that AWB '65 body is one of the MCW bodies/kits. For the race car if I have to I can use a '64 hood and front bumper and alter the front fenders enough to work, they weren't exactly straight on the race car anyway, and the second version we ran WAS a '65 body with a '64 front clip, without the moldings they were basically identical. Thanks for your help, that's the nice thing about this forum, the critics are few and far between.

With the prices some of these kits are bringing on auction sites where the buyer sets the price (and many start at only 99¢) there must be some demand for them. I've been trying to get a '64 Chevelle kit for a while now and their prices are just going up to astronomical highs. Also I know that they aren't Craftsman or Junior kits but has anyone tried to by a small bumper Pinto sedan kit lately? But we got the (in my opinion) ugliest model year of the Pinto built, the hacked off nose job '79-'80 and a wagon, at least they could have made a small bumper '71-'73 version they aren't quite as clumsy and heavy looking.

Quite possible, just repeated what was printed, it WAS one of the early outboard powered cars, I just assumed by the one big exhaust pipe and the fuel castor oil mix that it was some kind of two stroke.

Another location that you will never see braided stainless hose is when the line is used as a suction, like the hose from the bottom of the dry sump oil tank to the dry sump oil pump on the side of the engine.

Unless this particular chassis is different than every other sprint car I've seen the very front vertical tube (not the two shortie braces at the very front) aren't correct, there should only be one on the right side of the chassis it's used as a mount for the panhard bar to keep the front axle centered. There's usually a couple of spuds with threads in it for mounting the heim joint to and they're not very far apart they're for setting the front roll center.

plus one to pay him for the bet you lost??

Or Even regular enamel clear apply to the emblem with a small brush and wait until it's tacky then put into position on the car. Placing the emblems on a small piece of scotch tape before doing this makes it easy to see what you're doing and you can wait until dry before removing the tape.

Revell released a version of the early '90s Lumina that was used for the Days of Thunder cars that was plain white without decals, it was one of the last releases of stock cars from them, and isn't hard to find, I think I still have one or two in hiding, just not sure how deep I'd have to dig to find them, lol. I liked the AMT kits as parts donors for either short track cars, or street rods, their rear axles are clean and easily adapted to just about any model without doing major surgery, and the front clips are easily adapted to early pickups or cars to put modern front suspension under them.

Model T Hubs, not wheels, they had six rivets holding the drums to the hubs, the used just the s machined hub and bearings, this came from an article in Open Wheel magazine that covered the restoration of an early Kurtis midget.

Late for your build, but those six lug hubs are Model T bolt pattern, the old original midgets used the T hubs and made wheels to fit that pattern, when Halibrand made the first one piece wheels they designed a six pin setup with a pressure plate and a single Knock off nut to hold the wheel on. Until the eighties when the new splined wheels replaced the drive hubs with the six pin drive, sprint cars and midgets still used the same model T bolt pattern. Just a little history for you. ?

I know you have one of the new style Schroeder boxes and it's been years, but the new style boxes are a take off on a late model GM power steering box, the Schroeder you're looking for is the old style and they were patterned after a Ross steering box from the Crosley cars and international trucks, there is an excellent version of them in the midget kits that Revell released a little while back, or in a pinch you can even use a model A, or early Ford steering box with the side tubes made from tubing or styrene rod. We built a box for a real dirt modified in the late sixties from an early Chevy steering box and used the stock side cover and built an extension from tubing and cut the stock shaft to the Pittman arm and lengthened it out so we would still have the splined end, it worked perfectly. In fact in a recent Street Rodder magazine they printed an article on how to do the same exact thing using a Ford pickup box for use in a model A roadster that they wanted the old look steering in.