my66s55

HIPPS, as in high impact styrene. You have to heat the print bed same as for ABS, but HIPPS prints better and is easier to work with.

I have printed that thickness requirement with both style printers, but the filament printer can only do it flat on the print bed. Then you have to smooth it out. I have printed 1/25th spark plugs with the sla printer that are .5 mm diameter in the verticle position. I also have that thickness on the radiator shell and part of the front fender of my 12th scale 35 Lasalle convertible coupe. These were printer with the sla printer. To get some idea of the 2 different printers, check out this post: modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/101922-1935-lasalle-convertible-coupe-3d-printed-at-home-aug-30/?page=1. For something recent, check out this post: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/119256-my-chrysler-a-318-poly-head-engine/.

If you buy the original Prussa i3, you can't go wrong. Josef Prussa is one of the original developers of open source filament 3d printers. The printer filament printer I built and is in my avatar is a Prussa i3. Prussa is like the godfather of this type printer. If you just want to get your feet wet and learn what's needed to produce successful 3d prints, this would be a good, inexpensive route to take. But, as you guys are aware, there is a lot of difference in print success and quality between a printer that melts plastic with specifications as a layer height max as low as 50 microns and xy max of 400 microns compared to an sla uv resin cured printer with specifications of a layer height as low as 20 microns and xy of 50 microns, plus does the print in a fraction of the time.

I got the intake manifold scaled right so it fits perfect. Here's a better picture of the Carter wcfb carbs.

I did it by using a model miter box. Lay it on it's side and cut as close to the carb as your comfortable with. Then use a sanding stick and draw it evenly across the stick which is laying on a flat surface. Go slow and check your sanding results often so as to get it even as you can.

There are a number of things you need to know about 3d desk top printers and 3d printing before you invest in one. I don't believe your ready.

Brian, instead of buying from CGTarder, get the file creator on CG and go to their website. You'll save $30 to $50 that way. I have a list off CG that I want to get, but went to the creator website.

I used Aleene's tacky glue to do a mock up to check major parts for proper size and fit. The intake manifold appears to need widening. The carbs have not had their bottom sanded yet. This is just a preliminary before fine tuning.

Dodge didn't use the A engine until 1959. It was used only in the plymouth 56-58.

"So the question remains. How can I assemble an "A" series poly 318 in 1:25 scale?" One of 3 ways. 1-Get some scratch building supplies and create the parts needed. 2-Learn cad drawing and create the files to build it. Then purchase a high detail uv resin curing 3d printer, learn how to use it and print out the parts needed. 3-Wait until someone else with the proper skills creates it and makes it available to you.

Kleenklay http://www.sculpt.com/catalog_98/clay/kleanklay.htm Also this video may help https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dBEK_Jyfvek

For the life of me, I don't know why you made that long post. If you read my post, you will clearly see what I said. Many times, modelers will use something available to complete a build. Personally, I don't see any demand for the older poly version in scale. Chrysler did use a 354 in it's low line and Plymouth only offered a 270 older version in 56. The A engine was designed for Plymouth because it was cheaper and simpler to manufacture and was offered in the 56, 57 & 58 models exclusively. No hemi based poly engine was offered as standard equipment in 57-58. Notice I said standard. This doesn't mean that it might be available on special ordered or wasn't used in Canadian and other markets.

I just read this on my ATT Google home page. They said it was heart failure.

I'm with Bill. I found a fairly straight on picture of a 59 Plymouth door panel. Cropped a section. Tiled it in LibreOffice writer. Printed it out and used it in door panels and seats. Worked perfect.

Understanding the print spects will help you understand what causes those lines. 3d printing is done in most cases in layers. When an object has an angle, it creates a situation of lines, Vision a series of steps. The ones used to climb. The greater the angle, the greater the step. The layer size may be 19 micron, but if the xy is 100 microns your going to get steps. X being left to right and y being top to bottom. The black high definition printer is a desktop u.v. resin printer. The same technology I use. If I had to guess, I'd say that it's one of the new fast printers that can do an hour print in 10-15 minutes. The resin is Fun-to-Do deep black which prints in great detail and has a shrinkage of 5% or less. For smoothing, I prefer to use Duplicolor scratch filler whenever I can, but I don't have much problem with lines because I print at 50 micron layer height and 70 micron xy.

I really like this builds design and the way it's being done with the use of desk top 3d printing. 3d printing allows for the ability of parts, like fenders, to be printed as a mirror image of each other. I found this impossible to do by hand. Draw the file or files for one side and hit the mirror key and you have the file for other side.

No. Just light sanding to get the bottom of the print even and rid support residue. There is no need for surface sanding as the surface is smooth.

This is true, but that the 57 300 hemi is much nicer in detail and has the A488 trans. I have a Dodge hemi and a Desoto hemi from the Amt 29 Ford roadster and 53 Ford pickup. Based on the availability of someone using an existing kit engine, the 300 engine makes sense. Comparing the size of the 3 kit engines, they are the same length. In real life, going by the 1956 dimensions that I could find when I started this project, the Chrysler width-height are 25"x30". Dodge was 23"x27". Plymouth used the A engine. I'll use the Chrysler. I could modify the A block to the correct specks, but just doesn't make sense to me.

It is possible to print lettering in those scales as I have done it for someone else. It was the B.F GOODRICH on the sidewall of a tire. That is the only way I know of that it can be done. That is, on an existing surface. To print just the script isn't possible.

Brian, the 62-66 block was just a slight bit different as it mated with the 727 trans. The starter mounting changed position. I already have this block. Dan, the rtv and casting resin was on my doorstep bright and early this morning. Lets see how I do with that.

A 325 poly can be made with these heads and valve covers that fit on the hemi in the AMT 57 Chrysler 300. When used with the hemi duel quad manifold in that kit, you have the engine that came in a Dodge D500.

Bill, the parts are printed with a resin called deep black. As a suggestion from a member here, I started painting them with Rustoleum silver. Also, Plymouth engines of this era, except the valve covers, were silver.

Thanks for the positive replies. Yes Dan, I designed these created the files and printed these parts on my 3d printer. It takes a different type of printer to print this type detail. It uses u.v. curable resin and a D.L.P projector instead of melting plastic in layers. John, I am creating this now because there has been an interest in being able to obtain this engine in scale. This version is only good for 56 & 57. 58 needs a different oil pan. The heads and valve covers might not fit the engine block you want to use. What block did you want to use them on to create what engine year? There will be more versions in the future as this block is only used from 56-61. I have the 62-66 Block already. The valve covers from 59 on didn't have the center screw bolt. The torqueflite A488 cast iron trans was used from 56-61 and is the bell housing is unique to the A engine. The trans from the 57 Chrysler 300 is not correct and has flaws. I'm in the process of creating the A488 file currently. Past that, I need to do the exhaust manifolds and air cleaners. Future parts will be a single 4 barrel and a 2 barrel manifolds plus a 2 barrel carb and air cleaners to match.

It's not difficult to learn if you have the right sources for answering questions and doing how to do plus the time to do it. I've been using it for 3+ years and am still learning new things to improve my files and check them for 3d print ability. Thankfully, all this is easy to find.

I need this engine for my upcoming 56 Plymouth build and since others have expressed a desire for one, I started creating it. This version is for the 56 & 57 Plymouth. The A engine was only used in Plymouth for 56-58 models. There was an older poly head version used in other Chrysler lines through 58. The heads swapped out with hemi engine heads and and everything else except the valve covers were hemi. I am open to any thoughts, questions, suggestions and or comments on this project. The actual engine My engine in it's current state Shoing the stl. files The printed parts starting with the head valve cover Timing chain cover and water pump- kindly excuse my thumb print on the water pump The water pump pulley, fan and oil filter cartridge The engine block in two pieces The engine block shown as one piece. The oil pan, harmonic balancer and crank shaft pulley, starter, generator, intake manifold, and the 3 sections of the Carter wcfb carb.