my66s55

Absolutely correct on the 33 frame being totally unacceptable. In 1934, G.M went to independent front suspension. This style carried through into the early 50's. The 1948 Chevrolet and 1950 Olds kits have this style. As far as the frame, it goes from two straight rails to forming to the shape of the body. The frame would look like this LaSalle frame, only a different size.

I'm also single, retired and on a fixed budget. If you don't know how much you spend on something, it's your choice. To tell people that, because they know how much they spend for a build, they need a new hobby is only you opinion. Not fact.

I totally disagree. There are people in this life that keep track of their spending. It's their nature. I can tell you where every penny I spend goes. I'm an accountant and that's how I control my budget. It's got nothing to do with a hobby.

Not a chance.

I have some of the old kits all the way back to 1961. I bought them because I wanted to build a model of the car and fully intend to do so.

Bill is correct. I personally would rather use Future. That's what I use to clear coat.

I use clean water and this: To get this and more.

As has been mentioned before. Make sure it's made from stainless steel. Otherwise, the stripper could also dissolve it.

I use Gimp. It is a cross platform free software that is extremely efficient. Since I don't use Microsloth's windozs and use Linux instead, the procedures may be a little bit different. Open your picture in Gimp. Right click and select "transform tools", "crop". Crop (cut out) the picture to it's outside dimentions. Press enter key. Right click and choose "image", "print size". Enter size as needed. Press enter. Right click and in File, choose "export as". Make sure the extension is jpeg and going to the right folder. Press enter. Done deal.

Just checked this out and book marked it. Hard to find sierra gold used on 56 Chevy's. I want to paint the Nomad like this.

But they are much less than yours. I calculated the diameter against the plug wires on my 66 Merc and the 30 gauge are perfect. I ordered 10' of black and orange Yesterday when I found the train website listed above.

Some new changes as I am using a single 4 bbl engine in my 59 Plymouth convertible project. The engine that comes in the 58 Plymouth is terrible beyond belief. AMT cut out details and fudged part sizes so that they could fit it into the engine bay. I'm using the 58 frame for the 59. The bell housing on the 58 is the same size as the 57 Chrysler. I knew that the 318 poly engine had it's own bell housing for the A488 trans. and had drawn up a mostly complete file. As a result, I printed out a proper bell housing, cast the 57 trans. and bell housing and cut off the trans to attach to that bell housing. Here's the result.

This is actually the best way to go about making this body usable. Back a few few years ago, I did a post that showed how to deal with 3d printed parts and the difference in types of printer. I built my own printers and used them as examples, but the principles are still the same. Here's a link to that post: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/101922-1935-lasalle-convertible-coupe-3d-printed-at-home-aug-30/?page=1

To answer your question Gerald, yes. The silver paint I use to display printed parts has a filling ability that I didn't use on most of these parts. This paint has little effect on the detail of the part. Just the engine block that was resin cast had this coating. Everything else was raw printing.

I pose this question many times. My answer is quite simple. A bear goes anywhere it wants to, are you gonna stop it?

This answer is totally correct. The 65 full size Mercury engine was black with orange valve covers and air cleaner. I ran into this situation when I was building my full size 66 Mercury S55 convertible. The 66 brochure showed the 65 engine. Wrong colors for 66.

I successfully used this method for windshields for late 50's Chrysler products. Specifically the 57-58-59 Dodge and 59 Plymouth. I used my heat gun set on low and continually worked it over the plastic until it formed perfectly. Came out perfect.

Works for me.

Bill, the 58 Plymouth trans is a representative of the torque flight A488. The 57 Chrysler is a better one, but it's more a situation of what's at hand.

Found this while looking for something else. I'm going to try it....someday. https://www.b9c.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1391

Google is your friend. Search "3d coffin casket file". look for stl. obj. etc. files. I saw some.

I have a 56 AMT Ford Crown Vic that has both single and duel quad manifolds with Holley carbs.

Very nicely done Al. That license plate would work twice as good for me as that kit was the last one I built in 1960 until 2003.

One advantage of reading a thread totally through from start to finish is that you don't ask questions that have already been covered. I direct you to Zoom Zoom's post on page one of this thread for your answer.

Some more parts ready. The block, heads, oil pan, timing chain cover w/fuel pump and water pump and single 4 bbl manifold. Duel quad air cleaners 4 bbl air cleaner as it comes off the printer 4 bbl air cleaner sanding and glued together