my66s55

Let me add to that list 3d printable files I have access to. 55&57 Lincoln Premiers 56 Lincoln continenetal

x2

As far as any kit manufacturers issuing any new 50's kits, I can't see it. When Modelhaus was in business,at least you could get a resin copy of a desired year car. Even at that, it is far from a kit. Here is my list of model kits I would like to build. How many do you think would be even be considered to garner enough demand to manufacture? 1955-56 Plymouth 1955-56 Pontiac 1955-56-57-58 Dodge 1956-57-59 Olds 1957-58-59 Chrysler New Yorker 1957-58-59 DeSoto Fire Flite This is not a wish list. It's my to do list. All will have a rolling detailed chassis, Engine bays complete with correct engine and detailed interior. It has been my opinion for a number of years that, the only way to get a model kit of a subject you want to build, is to create it yourself. In order to do this, you need to have certain skills.

Under lacquers no. Over lacquers yes.

Well, all went well except I have no power. The storm did a god job of trimming up the branches of my trees. Nothing now but boredom as everything I want to do tacks power. I don't care for this cell phne version.

I am working on fixing a number of warped promos that I have resin cast. It's a very slow and tedious task but, should be worth the effort.

Those who don't know what Ray is talking about, http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/126000-hurricane-irma/. We wait, not knowing our fate.

Sent this morning.

USA Today crossword and jigsaw puzzle will not load without shock wave enabled.

Firefox uses a plug in called shockwave flash. It slows down your browser on this forum. Chrome doesn't use it. You can disable it in Firefox, but Chrome is much faster on my laptop.

Mine is LibreOffice spreadsheet on Linux Ubuntu o.s. I can save it as an excel file.

64, 65 & 66 Chevy II Nova: 1964 1965 1966

Here's how I did mine.

For those who haven't seen any of my 3d printed projects on here before, I have built my own printers and used them. The latest one I build and made my first print on Christmas Day, is a dlp style. That is to say, it cures ultra violate liquid resin with the beam of light from a dlp movie projector. This method gives very good fine detail. All my other projects have required me to create my on 3d printable files. This one I located on the web. The first thing I had to do was scale a top and side view of the 3d file. I opened it up in Bender, the cad software I use and took screen shots of the file. Then, I open them in Gimp and cropped each file bumper to bumper. I then loaded the cropped picture into Gimp. Used "image-photo size" and scaled the image to the proper size for 1/24. I was able to do this because I had already looked up the proper bumper to bumper and wheel base spec's. I then printed them out, checked the afore mentioned spec's, grabbed my micrometer and proceeded to take measurements of different parts. When you purchase a file such as this, it's important to know what you are doing. First off, make sure it is the sum of it's parts equal the whole. In other words, it disassembles. Here I have removed the fenders, front bumper, lights and chrome trim. Then I have to make the part fit on the printer in the best position to create the best end result. Lastly, the part is still not ready for 3d printing. There is no thickness to the parts. I opened the fender in Blender and created thickness where needed. It takes multiple prints to get the correct one. The final parts f it perfectly on my top view scaled image. Lastly, I am going to use the Heller Delehaye 135m kit for the rolling chassis and engine. All else will be 3d printed.

I have a 55 Monogram Ford panel truck.

Chris, you can save as well and import files into a number of formats. Open Blender. Right click File. To import other files, right click import and select the file you want. To export, click file, export and choose the format you want and save as. Your on the right track with you goals and ahead of the curve. There is much to learn, but with your attitude and determination, you'll succeed. If I can help, just p.m. me.

The printer technology is coming quite quickly. Late last December, a Chinese company introduced a resin dlp style printer that cures uv resin with uv led light shining through an altered lcd screen. Cost, $600. It was followed at the beginning of this year by a large Chinese 3d printer manufacturer. It's called the Wanhoe d7. Cost, $399. Both these printers were bought by members of the diy 3d community who tested and improved them. The problem is, they are not made for the general public. There are things that need to be done to make them work right. Then, just recently, this same style printer showed up on Kick Starter. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/249504031/sparkmaker-the-most-affordable-desktop-sla-3d-prin?ref=preview&token=6f87b384. It appears to be general consumer friendly. Cost, less than the two printers mentioned above.

I've used the Harbor Freight digital calipers for at least the past two years. They are perfect for scaling on my 3d printed projects.

These are the preliminary prints of this project to check scale calculation and print accuracy. They are printed at low setting so that I can get the end pieces faster. The first prints were to see how they came out. After I was satisfied with the results, I went for scale. The picture the parts are placed on is a scale of the file used to create them.

I am about done with this project. I created this engine for my personal use and one other person. Others have expressed an a desire to get one for themselves. There currently isn't a 2bbl option as it's not something I need. If I receive interest for some, I'll finish the intake manifold and create a Carter DDB carb for it. I have made a Face Book page with info on how to obtain the current versions. It's on the bottom of my posts below my name. If you aren't a Face Book person, text me. Thanks to Bill Geary, aka MrObsessive for his incredible build of the 58 engine. This is what I supplied him. The 3d prints on a resin cured printer need supports in order for them to come out right. They have to be removed by clipping them close to the part and then sanding. Here is an example of the engine block stl. file used to print them. The prints do not come out flat on the bottom. You can see by the amount of supports on the block that there is a bit of sanding to do after the supports are removed. I have made some changes after building the single 4bbl version and fitting it to the 58 frame that I am using on my 59 build. The fan pulley was shortened. The front of the oil pan was changed for better fit. The proper bell housing was drawn up and printed and had the trans from the 57 Chrysler A488 adapted. The carb is one of Joseph's AFB's.

Absolutely correct on the 33 frame being totally unacceptable. In 1934, G.M went to independent front suspension. This style carried through into the early 50's. The 1948 Chevrolet and 1950 Olds kits have this style. As far as the frame, it goes from two straight rails to forming to the shape of the body. The frame would look like this LaSalle frame, only a different size.

I'm also single, retired and on a fixed budget. If you don't know how much you spend on something, it's your choice. To tell people that, because they know how much they spend for a build, they need a new hobby is only you opinion. Not fact.

I totally disagree. There are people in this life that keep track of their spending. It's their nature. I can tell you where every penny I spend goes. I'm an accountant and that's how I control my budget. It's got nothing to do with a hobby.

Not a chance.

I have some of the old kits all the way back to 1961. I bought them because I wanted to build a model of the car and fully intend to do so.