my66s55

Now is the perfect time to paint here. Temps mostly in the 70's, somewhat dry. Later on, it will get humid and unbearable.

I really am not impressed by these big old boats. I say this having grown up in the era in which they were produced. Cadillac of this era were what some of my friends dads bought and drove, as well as what others bought as a symbol of success and comfort and ease of ride. That being said, I bought my favorite Cadillac in 2002 when I purchase my 2002 CTS. That car was sporty and quick plus had the quality of a Cadillac.

Snow? Haven't seen that in years. Don't miss it,

Got down to about 30 degrees overnight, but today was mid 50's, tomorrow in the low 70's and Sunday in the low 80's. It's Florida, what do you expect.

Replicas and Miniatures has a nice set. The Revell / Monogram 37 panel delivery also has a set.

What exactly are you looking for? Ocala is up in the boonies.

You won't regret it Charlie. They are super nice. So are the carbs, if you are interested.

Just contact crazyjim. He is on this forum. He runs F.A.S.T. model car club from the Hobby Lobby in Ocala. You'll learn everything you need to know about the area. I'M 70 miles S.E. in the Orlando area, so I don't go up that way.

Matt oh Matt. You UP guys are something else. Think F.A.S.T. Think crazyjim. Everything you need to know.

Fantastic build . I wish I could get my dashes to look like this

I use USPLASTICS. Same price and shipping has been reasonable.

Here is the list of materials used to build this. Add another $20 for misc hardware and you have the cost. The software is all free.

Sorry for the delay in answering this request. When I went into this project, I was not sure of the end result. I knew that I could resell the projector if things didn't turn out favorably. With that in mind, I did some parts as cheaply as possible. After seeing the success of the project, I needed to make some upgrades to improve the end results. With that in mind, here is my dlp printer as of now. I have included a build list of what I used.

I have a Harbor Freight variable speed with cord and cordless. They comes with a bunch of tools plus my Dremel tools work also. It does all I need for $27 minus a coupon if you have one.

Brian, Blender is free open source software that is cross platform. I was made by and developed by people in the trade. There are tutorials on youtube: as one example. Their web sight has more help. There is a free Blender for Dummies that is downloadable, The software has functions to help make your file 3d printable. Shapeways mentions Blender on their websie.

I am very incuraged by the amount of interest. I used the 2 websites I listed in post 16 of this thread for the majority of my referrence. It helped having the experience of building the fdm printer. I already knew how to set up the electionics and software, plus getting it working and calibrated. The dlp printer is a very simple machine and quite easy to construct. The beauty of building your own is that you can it make how you want. I will be 70 years old in a couple of weeks. There is not a lot of empty desktop room in my house. I wanted to be able to stand while using the laptop, so I built my printer 48 inches high from 2 pieces of plywood I had in the garage. I left the ends open for access and cut an opening in the side for access to the vat and easy repair, build, etc. The height also enable me to put a large container under the vat incase of spills. I would be elated to have the opportunity to print some of your files. Here are and example of a wheel I created and a tire from Grabcab. I didn't clean the dust from them before painting and it shows. The resin I am using is ver soft and breakable. It shows in the prints and is not caused by the printer not printing correctly. The tire broke while I was cleaning it. Alcohol is used to remove the excess resin. The stl. also needs to have the tread raised as it didn't print.

So true Jeremy. Can you imagine though,going to a web site and finding files like these already drawn? http://www.cgtrader.com/3d-models/car/antique/delahaye-135m-figoni-and-falaschi-convertible-1937 http://www.cgtrader.com/3d-models/car/standard/buick-skylark-convertible-1964 http://www.cgtrader.com/3d-models/car/antique/delahaye-t165-1939 http://www.cgtrader.com/3d-models/car/antique/bugatti-type-57sc-atlantic-1936 http://www.cgtrader.com/3d-models/car/luxury/cadillac-eldorado-convertible-1953 http://www.cgtrader.com/3d-models/car/antique/oldsmobile-88-1957-convertible--2 http://www.cgtrader.com/3d-models/car/antique/oldsmobile-88-1958-coupe--2 I didn't create the file for the ls engine block. I down loaded it and other files like the tire in the response below. They were free on the grabcad website.

I don't recall, Brian. It was done as a part for the front suspension of the 1935 LaSalle convertible coupe model I am printing. At the time, I was still learning to use Blender and didn't know all the shortcuts. It wouldn't take that long today. Here are the files.

The resins appear to be chemical based, Charlie. Go here: http://www.buildyourownsla.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=68 if you would like a like of suppliers.

Thus is a better picture of the the engine block.

Here's a good example of the difference between a part that's printed on my filament machine and the dlp machine. Last picture is the stl file,first is the filament print and the other 2 are the dip print.

Until the resin won't print good anymore. There are guys reporting 2 and three weeks and everything is still good. The resin and salt water don't ever mix. If you stir the vat up, the resin only rises to the top. The resin can also be drained off the top.

Thanks Chief. I looked at both bottom up and top down pros and cons and decided to do a top down. There has just been too much in the way of problems with the flex vat. The main draw back originally with the top down was the high cost of resin and the fact that you could only built to the depth of the vat. The flex vat bottom up has a high print failure rate due to tearing of the print during the flexing. Also problems with larger prints not being able to separate from the vat. The cost of resin is now less than half what it was 2 years ago. You fill the vat up to about 2 or three inch from the desired resin height with salt water and then top it off with resin.

Resin is resin. Cut it. Sand it. Paint it. Isn't harmed by chemicals including break fluid, acetone, alcohol, yada,yada,yada. You can electroplate it. Doesn't contains any v.o.c. Just resin. Comes in a variety of colors and consistency. Soft and flexible like you would want for making tires. I'm printing one out now, as that is the resin I bought. General purpose which is hard, but not brittle and castable for making thing like jewelry.

Chris, I built the printer. I have less than 1k in it. The most expensive purchase was the Acer 6510db dlp projector. It ran $607, but is considered one of,if not, the best. Makerbots are filament layering printers like my diy Prussa I3 in my avatar. Not really something you would not want to consider. Formlabs1 is an sla printer. That is, it uses a laser to cure the same uv resins that the dlp beam does. The B9 creator will go to 25-30 microns. Where it can get confusing is understanding 3d printing and these numbers. I may very well get to a 10 micron layer height, but that isn't really needed unless you like to wait a long time to print something. My engine block was printed at 100 microns layer height. The height is the z axis. x & y are the side to side and front to back axis. A filament printer uses all three. The laser printer uses all three. that is what creates a non smooth surface. It is also very time consuming. A dlp printer projects a beam of uv light that cures an entire layer in 3 to 6 seconds. There is only an x axis that moves. It took 39 minutes to print this engine block. I could easily add 3 to 5 more on the build platform and print 4 to 6 engine blocks in the same 39 minutes.