ZTony8

Reminds me of some aftermarket Model T hubcaps from several years ago.The script on the cap was done in the same style as the original part but instead of "Ford" it said "Fool".

There's Purple Power and there's Super Clean(ex Castrol).If my feeble memory serves correctly,Purple Power is weaker,and therefore less effective,than Super Clean.

You guys may laugh(or cringe) but for filling voids in resin I use good old Testors model putty.I've got some 1/43 builds from 10+ years ago that haven't shrunk or popped.The stuff even smells like those resin bodies. Lately I've been using Tamiya putty for my plastic projects.It dries hard and sands well.No problems with shrinkage so far.

I'll go for the Brabham BT52.Clean,simple,effective shape.It was that way because of a late rules package change that left little time for creativity.The rear wing wasn't even adjustable!

Last Saturday night I sent Revell a request for a front axle and tie rod for the Kurtis Kraft midget kit I'm building(The original set grew legs and wandered off my work bench).The website said normal time to process the request and receive items is 6 to 8 weeks.I prepared myself to wait that length of time,no big deal.Yesterday the mailman brought me a litlle box from Revell with my two requested parts! Thanks to them for the VERY quick response!More companies should be like this.

I'm certain that that color is a flat only.You can gloss it with Future(it levels nicely) OR use a clear enamel(not lacquer!) with your best option for that being the clear gloss in the Model Master line.Wait until the violet is dry to shoot the gloss-see the bottle side for any recoat window information.You can sand it if you choose but the smoothness will be as a result of polishing the clear enamel or the Future leveling out as it dries.

If the Chevelle is the Monogram/Revell kit,skip it.If it's the AMT version it's much better.The Ford's a good kit(and I'm a GM favoring guy).

There is/was an ARII Chaparral 2C kit that had the Weber set up in it.

Fuzzy memory here but I think it was made by ITC.

What color did you use?Maybe a fellow modeler can send you a bottle or can to help you.

You did this in only 2 months?!!! Amazing and nicely done.

What do you feed those flies down in Arkansas?Poodles?

If I don't stick a note on the box I just write on the box lid with a Sharpie,listing the items I've removed from the kit.I know it gives the vapors to the box art and air box guys but I seldom retain the kit boxes when I'm done building the models.

Go ahead and try the decals!If I can manage to do the outlined Peugeot lion on the white '99 206 WRC without going insane(it was close!) you can do these bigger decals.Think of it as a learning experience and a charcter builder.

If you'r going to use it as a paint stand for small parts,don't bother to paint it- it'll get covered soon enough.If it's going to be a display stand then paint it.

Only that version is molded in orange(says so on the box side panel).The Shelby's molded in a truly awful lime,and the '72 GTO is also in a shade of orange.

I was never a huge Petty fan.I respect his winning 7 championships and his goodwill ambassador role.But I've always thought that getting 200 wins was over blown.It was a lot easier to rack up wins when the circuit raced 3 and 4 times a week for several years at short tracks in the southeast.Put that many races on the schedule now and see how many drivers quickly pile up the wins.

I know that there's a feature on the car in an old Super Stock & Drag Illustrated Magazine circa 1966-67.I don't recall if there's a chassis only view of it or pics of the chassis.I'd have to look when I got home.

Detroit's Autorama is coming in 4 weeks.The admission and the food there is high but since I judge at the model contest I get a two day pass to enter and I've found a way around the high cost food. Plus I get to see all the fine contest builds close and in detail.

Ah,I didn't realize the Accurate Miniature molds were still existant.I thought I read on here somewhere that they were gone.One less thing to keep them from being re-released in the future. Those tobacco and beer sponsored stockers?The only real value would MAYBE be in the decal sheet. The rest of the kit is identical to the non tobacco and non beer cars.Those kits are basically un-saleable now,their market having been satisfied long ago.I've seen them at toy shows for $3 and the vendors get to take them back home.

I've used Micro Set as it's milder than Micro Sol.

One of these days I'll build my gasser project-The Trumpeter '65 Ranchero.With the kit's engine being so awful that thing is a great candidate for an engine swap.Right now I'm seeing a gray primer finish with a blown big block Ford and a straight axle-subject to change.

It's been steady evolution on several fronts.The modeling magazines became better established.The cottage industry for detail parts came along.Manufacturing techniques evolved for the model companies.The internet helped in the larger availability of the kits and parts and forums like this made obtaining information for our hobby much easier.And I'll throw in the availability of models from foreign companies.I think this made our domestic model companies take note of the quality differences and raise their own quality levels.

I'm admiring how neat and cleanly you built your model.

Did you wash the body with some kind of dish soap?If you did it may have had silicones in it which is a possible cause of fisheyes.Some dish soaps contain silcones,some don't.