
ZTony8
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LOL!! I do have an MPC '68 Toronado in my stash. I may have to resort to making a mold of its pillar and resin casting it.
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Went to a couple of shows today and picked up an unbuilt AMT '67 Toronado with one missing A pillar, an unbuilt Monogram slant nose Porsche 911, a built up MPC McLaren M8D, a started Tamiya 1/12th scale Lotus 72D, and an unbuilt complete AMT '27 Model T touring/ XR6 double kit.
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- johan
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There is no tape narrow enough to be in scale for a narrow stripe( pin stripe width) on a model.
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1967 Oldsmobile 442 Cutlass Supreme tire fitment?
ZTony8 replied to Dpate's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Be prepared for them to possibly appear to be a bit small. That kit sure looks bigger that the AMT '66 Cutlass 442 which is essentially the same car. -
Ford C800 Gar-Wood Load Packer. It's Happening!
ZTony8 replied to chuckyr's topic in Truck Kit News & Reviews
Seems like if AMT went to all the effort of making all new tooling they could have made a newer model garbage equipment body like a Labrie or a Heil and done up a newer truck; CCC or Mack, maybe? -
1/25 AMT 1963 Chevy II Station Wagon with Trailer
ZTony8 replied to Casey's topic in Car Kit News & Reviews
AMT needs to find the Buick Special wagon pieces and the A frame engine hoist and all will be right with the model world. -
Gray CAN make a difference. I know that gray( and silver) under TS-8 just dulls the red out.
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I did a test of the pink primer versus white primer under Tamiya TS-49 red and it made NO difference at all. It would make a difference under Tamiya transparent red but then all you end up with is TS-49. So why bother?
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As I recall, my chassis, too, is basically flat on the bottom with the details molded in( I'm at work, kit's at home). It's the ridges and bumps on top of the plate toward its rear that interfere with the interior bottom. Makes me wonder how these kits from the USA series got built back in the 80s.
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I'd agree as far as the older kits where the decals done in white turn yellowish. The newer kits, not so much, so far. Some racing car kit sheets lack some of the markings but I suspect that's due to licensing issues.
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Several years back I managed to obtain about 8 unbuilt Jo-Han kits when a fellow modeler ended up in assisted living and his family sold off his kits. None of them the super rare or desirable ones but for the price I paid it was good deal.
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A couple of years ago I obtained one of the USA Oldies issue '60 Plymouth wagons from a fellow model club member. The chassis in the kit doesn't mate up anywhere near correctly with the interior bucket bottom. It's definitely a Mopar chassis, it's molded in the same color as the rest of the kit parts which indicates to me that it was originally in that box. Anybody else have this issue with an example of this kit? What was your solution?
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Tamiya kits have wonderful parts fit. None of the fussing with filing, sanding, and shaping of the domestic based manufacturers. The thing that does bother me about Tamiya kits is what they leave out in terms of components and in detail on some of the parts.
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Every a/c system I know about takes humidity OUT of the air thus helping to cool it. So how would an airconditioned room be higher in humidity? I paint in a cool basement ( I think low humidity- gotta buy one of those temp/ hygrometer things), central a/c in the house but the outlets in the basement closed. I still get die back with my gloss jobs.
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Great mods on the model! I'm not a big fan of the black trim, especially the wheels. I'd be curious to see what chrome bumpers and bezels and maybe dull red wheels with bright accents would look like on the model. But you like it and that's what matters.
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No pics but I built the old MPC '50 Merc "snap" kit and painted it with that Root Beer and their Bronze.. The paint job came out very well.
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I bought mine at my LHS. All their copies were still in their bags-a great idea!