charlie8575

We do it in lodge all the time! Although in Masonic or Robert's Rules, it doesn't really mean much, it does help emphasize a point if the brethren are strongly in favor of an idea. Nigel, I can't remember who said it originally, but the quote that goes something like "for evil to triumph, all good men need to do is remain silent" comes to mind. Don't be silent...don't let evil (or at least malice or stupidity) triumph. Charlie Larkin

Running my parents' very outdated PC being dragged along by FiOS and running an old version of Firefox, I was able to pull things up and I like Comfy, too. It's fairly easy to read, doesn't glare as much and is a pretty color combination. Charlie Larkin

When my former harddrive died, I lost the bookmarks to a couple of nice model railroading boards. Anyone? Not Model Railroader or RMC (I'm not even sure if they have one.) Charlie Larkin

I've been toying with building something similar to this. I'll take a look at this one though. If the price is right, I might pick one up. What I thought was neat about the way you had the lights set was that the taillights in picture #s 9 and 10 almost looked illuminated. Charlie Larkin

Cool. This wasn't a hijack...it's a great idea for a build that fits right in with the theme! Charlie Larkin

I'm so glad you shined up the Mercury. The whole flat/semi-gloss paint thing is so overdone, and to the point where it's starting to become a caricature of itself in model and real cars. And to me, it was a caricature to begin with, except in a few cases where real unfinished projects were stumbled across or are in fact, active in progress towards being finished. Great job on that Mercury. Charlie Larkin

Let me test my memory....that was the not-too-bright, slightly crooked Louisiana sheriff that Bond had to deal with, yes? Charlie Larkin

Very nice. Charlie Larkin

Quick question for anyone here who cares to try and answer. I've been reading that some of you have run across a syringe specifically designed to apply glue. 1. Who makes it? 2. Will it work with superglue? Thanks Charlie Larkin

I like Testors tube cement for assemblies I have to "fiddle" with to get to work, and use the liquid for most other purposes. Periodically, I'll use superglue for something if the regular plastic cement doesn't want to hold. For the GTO I'm building now, for example, a couple of things will need to be re-secured, so I'm going to do it with superglue because of the way the assemblies are going together...I need a quick, strong, reasonably secure bond that's pretty much guaranteed in a couple of tight areas. I'm going to try the clear parts cement next time I have some windows, etc. to put in. I've not heard a single bad thing about it. I never had much luck with white glue bonding styrene, so this might be a better solution. Charlie Larkin

If you have a good tobacconist near you, you could probably get them to give you the wood without too much trouble from the cigars they sell loose. No harm in asking. Charlie Larkin

Okay....I am NOT buying anything from this vendor! That aside, I love the build! Charlie Larkin

A small but important victory... I found my missing shock absorber! It's back in the box. I won't be doing much of anything this week...packing for a move. I'll be restarting in a couple of weeks, I hope. Charlie Larkin

It seems to be truncating the links (Gregg, Harry?) but I'll try it again. http://public.fotki.com/wackydave/model_cars/diorama_details/wiring_diagrams/ Let's hope it works this time. Charlie Larkin

Lucky...my last girlfriend did everything she could not to laugh at my modelbuilding or my trains. She have any sisters/cousins/friends with a similar disposition?? Charlie Larkin

The basic format is nice; the colors don't bother me too much, but I leave my type in black, anyway. Still, a little more contrast would be nice; I'm sure it all will be attended to in due course. Charlie Larkin

This year, everything is so screwed up with my family, I ended up buying my own Christmas present yesterday. While picking up some candy for my parents and my grandmother (who, at 98, doesn't want much, but loves her chocolate still,) I grabbed one of the new Revell 2009 Dodge Challenger SRTs. I picked through it...beautiful kit, although painting the underhood area is going to be a bit of a nightmare; that aside, it looks really nice. I'll see about getting to it sometime next year, perhaps. Charlie Larkin

Quetion, Jairus. For the annodized-gold trim on the rear doors and quarters, did you use tranparent yellow over the Bare-Metal? Whatever you did, it looks good. Charlie Larkin

A diesel modified to run on rendered grease/vegetable oil??? Charlie Larkin

That's a good starter set for doing basic details, and not a bad way to start out. Contrary to popular thought, although I do use a lot of automotive paints for painting the bodies, most of the rest of my painting is still done with solvent and acrylic enamels. The colors are adequate in selection, and with good brushes, cover well. They're also a little easier on the budget for when starting out. I would suggest the following: A good selection of Model Master automotive enamels, and a few of the FS (Military) colors for interiors and other odds and ends. If the Model Master lacquers are available in the colors you'd like, consider purchasing them, they seem to work resonably well. Model Master Acryl has a slightly different selection of colors, and work well, as do Tamyia's acrylics. I use automotive or craft lacquer primer almost exclusively. I like Plasti-Kote the best, but I know several people who use Krylon, Majic, Now (sold at Ace) and other hardware store primers with good results. I usually stick to gray. Some people use red oxide for "correct" painting; if you do, I'd recommend using it on the entire body or anything that's body-colored and gray for the rest. The spray-on primer does an excellent job of setting up the parts for whatever paint you like to use. Testors flat black spray for doing the underside, unless you want to do full detail. I usually stick to flat black because the era I build (older cars,) it looks like undercoating, which is reasonable for my neck of the woods (New England) and makes the job simpler. Newer cars tend not to be undercoated, but fully primed with a color mist underneath just something to keep in mind. I'd recommend very strongly getting a better hobby knife, such as an X-Acto or competing make. X-Acto has just sent its manufacturing over to Red China, so I've gone to purchasing other brands that are American-made still. Unfortunately, we don't have as much choice with car kits; perhaps someday that will change, too, but I digress. Glue: I use Testors liquid and tube. The tube cement can get a little stringy, but dries slowly, which is good for fiddly parts. Some people use superglue if you can't easily remove paint from some parts. Although I haven't tried it, Testor's clear parts cement is supposed to be very good. Hope this gives you some guidance. Charlie Larkin

Very sound advice and advice that should be heeded. Like a 1:1 car, you don't rush the assembly of a model. Each part needs, and deserves, the care and respect you'd give to the corresponding assembly on a real one. Welcome, and we look forward to seeing you around the board. Charlie Larkin

I had an insomnia bout Tuesday night/Wednesday morning and encountered similar occurrences, with nothing loading. Although there was discussion of this, I thought sizes were going to be limited, not altogether verboten. Whatever the problem, I'm sure we'll have an answer sooner rather than later; even if one we didn't really want. Charlie Larkin

Very nice job on the chassis plate! Charlie Larkin

I'm getting one come tax refund. Wow! I love 1968-72 Cutlasses, and I can't wait for this one to be on my shelf...I'm considering swapping out some of the 442 parts and making it standard Supreme, but I'll see when I get one. Charlie Larkin

I agree with the wags on the 1:1 sites....I think it looks better than any of the individual efforts. I also agree with a couple of the remarks I saw that boiled down to "the cars are interchangeable style-wise." Charlie Larkin