keyser

Fun to have scale version. One is in a Johan Superbird pro-touring I built 25yrs before protouring was a thing. Injection with stacks, all fits under hood nicely. Pretty awesome idea even if goofy combination of gear drives and belt drives.

It's on his site. http://www.resinrealm.net/STAR Models/Belly_Tanker.html

For Lexus and Mercedes both, dealers will send trucks to pick up and deliver cars for services. Many Lexus and MB's don't have spares either, I haven't driven a car with a spare since '98, has never been an issue really. So the frequent tows could well be service pickups and drop-offs, and flats. I've got 2 AMG's that both have dipsticks, but the blocks/motors aren't shared with any other Benz. Both are dry sumps and have an oil level monitor as well. The cars we have without dipsticks are also dry sumps, and they have amazingly accurate level sensors. One came back from oil service 1/2 qt low, and it showed it immediately.

33 Willys kits have a cammer too, IIRC, it's nice. I've got them in as many mid 60's Fords as I can, the 66 7-litre, the 68 Shelby, the 69 XL all have parts. Stuffed one in a 65 Continental. The Cougar conversion must have come in an annual along there too, as I've never had the funny. Nice stands. Calnaga stuff is awesome btw.

Can't find original post. Richard Freshman found and restored one of the Bartoletti 1:1's in late 80's, early 90's. I have no shop pics, but it was great project. Some pretty awesome stuff out there. The 300SLR or the W196 on the Benz is awesome sight. Goodwood has pics on site IIRC.

Maybe he saw it in a photo here. So he asked. Here. Why didn't you think of that? You could've asked OP. I just looked at Tower Hobby and no mention of either. After August, I'd guess, that was last date offered.

So, Dave, anyone you know lend them a kit to do that? Wish there were some guys with big kit collections that had that stuff, showrods, etc.

Post 'em up and we can ALL pm him

Those are Kelsey-Hayes Stripper mags. Not wires, just look like them. Built 1969-72 15x6, COPO on Yenkos. Rare. 66 Mercury has them, I have a set from another kit too I can't recall.

I understand that. But what do you suggest for starting point? OP asked about kit. No kit. Returning builder, doubt scratchbuilding skills, confirmed by OP. Monogram Springfield nowhere close. Hubley SC1 further removed. I've considered trying bashing this, but not much other than a PII to start. If there were no 63's available, a 62 gives a nice start if you have skills

Snake, I'd save the body, not waste effort on glass. You can get donor glass from tons of readily available MPC kits, or even make it out of sheet acetate. I'd probably try warming up the glass in hot water so it's not so brittle, use hand drill in a few places away from body, but not so far in middle to stress edges. Blow a few pilot holes, then use dremel to open up. Get yourself enough room to saw out the bulk of center glass, then use saw on xacto handle to work around corners and posts. Probably going to have to keep warming up the glass. I'd not use a hair dryer as 47yo plastic not very tolerant. Probably better ways, but the body is the prize. I'm still looking for one, I had a new one in 69. Amazes me NOBODY has ever done resin corrections on the R/M 69 and 70's. That Russian kit just too much of a pain to get.

It was funny how fast (no puns intended) it went from AWB to nose down. Wrinkle wall slicks, tire compounds, and shock valving dramatically improved hookup and launches. Landy and Garlits amongst others were very smart engineers that tried to use science for speed. Brilliant people often get called incorrect and misguided (See Darwin, ignored Takata engineers) I always thought mid-engine wheelstanders pushed the envelope forward too. HUG, LRW made a lot of people think about motor placement, just like Indy, F1 a bit earlier. As a kid then, it was pretty amazing time to watch the transition, and watch lap times and trap times plummet. AWB's were just another step. The lightweights from 61-63 were the front end of all that, and by what, '67-68 it was gone.

Harbor freight stuff is well under $10. The bins with handles are nice if you need to disassemble your work area. I still use kit boxes and resin boxes too, but they get far bulkier than the bins. I also hate hunting through boxes to find something, so use labeling if you can't see what's in a container. I like the vintage chest. Every time I find one I like, it doesn't fit well. Cool piece.

I use these. Tons of sizes, I use for parts, tools, paints, project bits. Purchased over ages but all pretty cheaply. Target, WM, etc. can use in garage too for hardware bits, etc. Depending on what's in there, I label where I can, group common stuff. Tires usually get sorted, and bagged by type, then into drawers in roll around stuff. I keep Dremel, goggles, sand papers (each grit in a Manila folder labeled, decals, etc. Sorry for quick and dirty pics from phone. I threw needle nose pliers in for scale ref, I couldn't find tape measure fast enough.

You can have it alright...why I tell ya. Now get off my lawn...

You broke the internet. That'll teach you to do nice things and spend money on people who are ingrates. Sorry for that. Your new rule is act locally. At least postage cheaper. I'd call them out too. Others get duped into that by people, and kindness gets people free stuff on backs of others. Keep doing nice things, but stand up against getting abused.

F&F movie franchise is the 8th largest grossing film franchise in history. $3.9 Billion Far ahead of other talkies like Iron Man, Mission Impossible, and even the Ed Sullivan Show!! Chrysler didn't gross $3.9 Billion selling every single Charger since beginning of time. Old guys whining about a $25 stock kit of a 46yo muscle car that'll get bought with an HL 40% off coupon probably not going to make model company's blow out their sales projections. Agree on the wheels Casey

Mini Exotics did the Corvair FB and the Waldorf Nomad kits for use with the AMT 53-55's. I've got them both since new. Cool cars. Factory did 5 plexiglass HT's, not available for sale, and there was a small run of 20 or so aftermarket plexi tops done too. Both done in 54-55 IIRC.

Yes, I know Italeri is a PII but in 1/24, not much available. Lots of useable, tweakable bits, grille, fenders, parts of hood and cowl. Far easier than scratchbuilding, and OP suggested it was a returning modeler project. Not a "send screaming into therapy" project I just saw my subcontractors put 12000lbs on a trailer rated at 7500lbs, so it may have worked once. Until the axle bent after a few bumps.

It was a Lincoln sedan, probably a 64-65, engineless as seen in the crane pic heading into the crusher. Could see thru the grille or hood I forget which. Curb weight was 5055 lbs less 650-750 lbs of motor, maybe a few hundred more with trans. Cancels most of gangster weight. So, dropping 2 ton brick into bed of 65 Ranchero. Wouldn't go well. Great movie anyway. Could probably start with the Italeri Maharajah Rolls as a start, but it'd be a long haul project

Just think of the screams if they did the off-road version first? The Maroon Daytona would be a nice one to have too. Let's start a rumor.

I'm not a 5w fan, but this looks awesome. Plus, I'm going to mess with the woody/tudor bash immediately. Interior framework is brilliant feature. That easily overwhelms the firewall issue.

Movie cars SELL. To memorabilia people, Vin Diesel/Paul Walker fans, kids who love movie and may start modeling, people who play Forza Horizon Fast and Furious, Forza 6, etc. Revell needs to make $$$$. Not satisfy people on this board first. People will buy this, stick it on shelf, and never build it, glue bomb it, whatever. OK. It'll pay for the stock tool of a 46yo car that most kids could care less about, but it'll keep people happy here. Let's see what it is before saying it's diecast based I'm out, If curves/details wrong, I'll mutter. But give them a break.

I love saving stuff, and have a lot of builders. I do, however, primer cars in batches, and nothing really needed much bodywork, if any, save for hole filling or mold line removal. So my pile of primered restorables/ersatz active projects is going to get dinked on value since I primed them? That seems goofy if it's evident the car is decent. Like leaving the bird dung on the barn find, as it enhances the value? It's not like a 1:1 that'll rust or be structurally unsound, and lousy bodywork easier to see in primer on a kit than a 1:1. Tire burns, putty shrink, etc. scream at you. I should say I'm behind on some projects I primered. I found a few I primered together about '95 or so. Still waiting, with minty original or Chrome-tech chrome, polished original glass, and bagged. I'll stop bulk priming immediately so my estate can get best returns

Buy a reissue and cut up the sides. Pretty flat, can keep the window area hopefully, or use as a template for cutting new holes. Just a thought. If you don't want to try that, hunt down a friend/club member that may help. Worst case, stalk ebay for a builder. I scored a nice pile of parts I needed to restore a window van for <$15 on evilbay. Every single new van I had in the window days either had a cracked cowl, or developed one. If they'd have molded hood shut, body would have been much more sturdy to start, and open hood shows minimal detail. One of the newer molds has solid sides and rear doors, one has solid sides and rear window doors. I think the A-team is solid, and the Chevy has windows??