
Mr. Metallic
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Everything posted by Mr. Metallic
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Stripping paint in our hobby depends on 2 main things. 1) Type of paint 2) Material that is painted (resin,metal,plastic) For stripping die casts, Aircraft Stripper usually works on just about any type of paint For stripping Tamiya and Testors lacquers, 91% alcohol usually works best, but test first because it can have different effects on different materials Fro stripping enamels and a good general purpose stripper, use Super Clean, but DO NOT use it on resin. It will destroy it. But I have had plastic parts soak in it for years with no apparent effect on the plastic. Easy-Lift-Off or Scalecoat (whatever it's called now) is a wipe on product that works well, but do not soak parts. As always, test any stripper on your material first if you've never used it before.
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Nice build, love the paintjob Is this a 1/25 kit or 1/16? I ask because those front wheels and tires are sweet and I'd like to know the source
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Since you asked, here's a few thoughts. First, I understand why he picked that name, but there was another well known aftermarket supplier called S+S Specialties, that used to offer similar products to what you intend. So, I would suggest changing the name to avoid getting roped into confusion with the old company. And I'm not just speaking out of my rear on this. I have an example. R+R Resin Casting was one of the big casters in the 80's and 90's. They have been gone for awhile, but to this day I still see people confusing them with RMR, a current resin company. And bothj of them get confused with R+M of Md, and vice-versa. Also, if the products are good and desirable, be prepared for it to consume your hobby time. There are many tales of aftermarket company owners who started their business to make a little extra cash and/or help out friends, and the business grew to take up all their spare time and they didn't have time to build anymore, and sometimes even to the point where they couldn't keep up with the demands. That usually results in upset customers and even legal action and a bad name in the hobby. Not that I'm trying to scare you away from your endeavor, just presenting you with some info so you can possibly avoid others mistakes. I look forward to seeing the products, and I wish you luck in your new venture!
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That's the first one of those resin bodies I've seen built. Your build turned out really nice. Clean execution, pleasing color scheme. i did the master for this btw. Still haven't built one myself
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Yeah, a lot of your parts look good in that big pic of the full "kit" you printed. But those KH bent wires you printed came out really nice.
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MPC Daytona Show transporter
Mr. Metallic replied to landman's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
That build is a thing of beauty. Excellent build Sven -
Coupe or Sedan? The coupe has been available for awhile
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Mountain goat
Mr. Metallic replied to Ryansrust6's topic in WIP: Model Trucks: Pickups, Vans, SUVs, Light Commercial
What's so awful about it? I think you've got it looking pretty good -
This kit is cool, definitely highly stylized. If I ever get my hands on one I'm going to combine it with an AMT Surf Woody show rod for the engine and frame to help flesh out this kit a bit. Looking forward to your build
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This has potential. I dig the stance, and wheel tire combination. The weathering seems a little heavy, but that could just be the pics. I get the flavor you're aiming for with the exhaust, but ,maybe track down an AMT Phantom Vicky for a set of exhausts. They have a spacing much closer to the Hemi than those Buick ones you're using. The Vicky kit engine is a modern Ford, but the spacing is nearly perfect for an old Hemi (or Ardun equipped flathead)
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Clean buildup of a fun kit. I had a blast building mine. Hope to do more in the future. It practically falls together, even if you do the mods for the optional narrow front end.
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Dragster front wheels
Mr. Metallic replied to Bilingham's topic in Car Aftermarket / Resin / 3D Printed
They look good, but hard to tell without seeing the printed part -
Moebius /Model king 65'Mercury Cyclone A/FX
Mr. Metallic replied to Mr mopar's topic in Car Kit News & Reviews
Somehow I missed that this kit was coming with a cammer motor. that's very cool. The ones we've had in various kits over the decades have been a mixed bag. Hopefully this one is done up right, especially the valve covers. -
A builder on another forum has bought 4 versions of the Revell 29/30 test shots from this seller.Cool bits of history.
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I'm guessing that these sellers just have their auctions set up to keep relisting when the item doesn't sell, and aren't good about going through their inventory to alter prices for items that don't sell. they just leave it on auto-pilot.
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Cool concept, well executed. I really dig the taillight treatment. Nice conversion work on the boat too
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Nice looking hot rod, and a well executed build. Kudos
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I thought they were black and white photos at first glance. Very nice buildup
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Always. Open. The Box.
Mr. Metallic replied to iamsuperdan's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
The majority of the Beach Boys deuce coupe kit you got is based on the old Monogram Little Deuce tooling. It builds up really well if your aim is a traditional rod. The problem is the 3W body they tooled up for this kit is wrong. The roof is the culprit. If you're interested I can send you a roadster body/interior and windshield if you really want to build it. I've bought a bunch of these kits over the years for the suspension parts, so I have a few extra bodies -
Digging this build a lot. Nice job back-dating the frame, and the improvements to the body are nicely done
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Nice chop on the Vicky
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Always. Open. The Box.
Mr. Metallic replied to iamsuperdan's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Same kit, but in a new box, with the Original ZZ Top album cover style box art. I think it's molded in white plastic(please correct me if I'm wrong) Decals should be better too. Just released this Spring by Revell. -
While Bill is right with regards to the rear cross members, I'll offer this as well. Since you said you were jut getting back into the hobby, and not knowing what your kit stash looks like or your skill set, let me throw this out there. You can get away with simulating the rear cross member with a little cheat. On the Revell frame there is a molded in rear member just ahead of the gas tank. If you cut a hole directly in front of that for the spring from the Monogram kit to rest in, and then put another strip of plastic in front of the opening you just cut for the spring you can simulate the look of a cross member without all the extensive surgery of putting a real cross member in there. See the pic, using the exact components described(yes, the radius arm would hit the floor as pictured. This is a mockup of an old project). If you need better details or pics let me know. Like I said, this may not be 100% accurate, but if you're just getting back into this you may not want to try big mods like modifying the frame and stuff just yet. If you need any more help just ask. And feel free to ask away about resin as well.
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Nice build. Great color