alan barton

Here is my second completed Revell hiboy. A Bud Bryan style A-V8. And guys, don't let this post die. There are a lot more models that should be posted here! Cheers Alan

There's a thread on this forum about pet hates. Not wanting to be negative, but there are two that I see on here a lot and they are both easily fixed. First is windshield angle. Guys, all model A's, 32s, 33, 34, 35 and 36 roadsters have windshields that lay back at varying angles. That's how Henry made them. When you stand them up vertically, in defiance of how the kit parts are molded, it looks like a dirty great farm gate stuck up on the cowl. Please, for the good of humanity, lay 'em back a little ( or a lot if you are going all swoopy like) Secondly, the lines on headlight lenses are meant to run horizontally on ALL headlights. In fact, most headlight mounting systems won't let you mount them any other way. When I'm doing something as awkward as hod rod headlights on separate posts, I mount the buckets first and let them dry overnight before fitting the lenses. Use white glue (PVA) to avoid fogging them. And yes, I can see from these photos that the left hand light is a bit further away form the grill than the right and side. I'm going to have to fix that but I might make another change at the same time. You might notice I also did quite a bit of slicing and dicing to the Revell headlight posts to get rid of the bug eye look of the original kit. This will be the last post before I post the finished model. If I can find the Revell Hiboy thread started by Tim Boyd I will pop it up there as well. Cheers Alan

I used the kit's rear exhausts but turned them upside down to run under the rear axle. To connect the mufflers to the flathead headers< I used pieces of AMT 40 Ford exhausts, just because I had them handy.

For a whole bunch of reasons, I parked up the old favourite AMT body and had a look at the Revell body instead. Most importantly the interior and floor were going to work far better with the Revell parts.There was no way I could live with the radiused rear wheel arches but someone here showed a neat trick for fixing them so I went for it. Sorry I can't remember who that member was but it is a simple trick. First, cut the original wheel arches free of the interior panels. Then position the arch inside the body and determine where you want it to be - I placed it about 4mm below the original arch. Trace the original arch onto the plastic and then carefully file it to fit the body When you are happy with the fit, glue it to the body ever so slightly proud of the quarter panel. I used Testor's tube glue to tack it in place and then dowsed it with super glue . After setting the superglue with Zipkicker, I sanded it flush and didn't need to use any filler. I then did more detail work on an AMT firewall and grafted it to the Revell body. The Revell firewall is probably the low point of this whole kit in my humble opinion. I am going to go out on a limb and say that NOBODY in the world ever attempted to graft a 30-31 firewall to a 28-29 body - there is simply no reason or advantage in doing so. Fortunately it is not a difficult thing to fix and it is a hot rod after all. (Someone will now post a photo of a real 29 with a 30 firewall, but that's O.K.........

Now I got a bit lost when it came to the body. I started off improving the old AMT body by adding ribs to the rear wheel arches and modifying the cowl header panle to accept the Revell windscreen. I like the AMT body and it handles some contours better than the Revell version. I also added some extra detail in the form of flanges to the AMT firewall and even got the finished body in paint.

The only thing I did to the complete flathead assembly from the Revell 32 Tudor was to shorten the fanbelt and tuck it in closer to the heads so that it didn't hang out in the breeze. Its a beautiful engine that really responds to detail painting. So why didn't I run plug leads? I've done it before on flatheads and the diameter and placement of the wire is so critical I just didn't want to detract from the appearance of the heads with some slip up of craftsmanship. I'm happy with the result and don't think it detracts from the look of the finished model.

I needed a pair os shocks to finish up the rear so I dug through my spares box and found these ones. I then drilled out the mounting eyes and used some Evergreen to make the mounts. I then drilled matching holes in the rear axle - next time I would think to do this BEFORE assembling the frame!!!

I really wanted to nail the wheel and tyre combo otherwise the build was never going to be convincing. I had a set of widened Kelsey Hayes wires from the Monogram 30 woody that I had already painted red but I anguished over whether I should narrow the front set or use say, some AMT wires instead. In the end I chose to narrow them, a nerve wracking experience that could have easily gone bad. As it was, I only just barely made them narrow enough to fit the Revell kit's narrow front tyres. Should I have kept the second wide pair for another project? - we'll never know and it's too late now. In case you are wondering about the rear tyres, I believe they were from a Japanese L&S parts kit. I have had them for decades and this was my last set, a shame as they make great hiboy tyres in my opinion.

It is basically the stock kit frame with a few significant changes. The rear crossmember from an AMT 29 frame has been used to replace the fabricated crossmember that Revell used. I then used the axle tubes, spring and radius rods from a Revell 31 Model A Tudor kit, with an unknown resin quick change 3rd member. The front engine mounts were replaced with small stubs to accept the engine crossmember from the Revell 32 Tudor flathead that I used in its entirety. Two tubular braces were added to the stock gearbox crossmember. The top of the front spring crossmember was carefully sliced out to allow the spring to sit lower and the front surface of that same crossmember was filed as flat and thin as I dared, otherwise the grill shell was going to sit far too far forward for my liking. Finally, I filed down the rear surface of the AMT grille shell, again to allow the radiator to sit over the axle centreline as closely as possible. To my eye, this is really important otherwise the whole axle/grille/headlight arrangement is going to be compromised. I had plenty of spare AMT grille shells and radiators which gives a much crisper result than trying to paint a perfect black radiator on the Revell one piece grille.

I was about 15 When Rod and Custom magazine started featuring the buildup of the Bud Bryan 29 Hiboy. It was one of a number of magazine cars that started the turn away from accessory- festooned resto rods. There was an also equally nostalgic and stunningly detailed hiboy built in a very similar style by Ian McConnell (think I got that right) of Queensland Australia. I got to ride in this car on a balmy spring night in Brisbane many years ago and can still remember the whine of the quick-change as we buzzed along. So while building a model of this car is hardly creative or breaking new ground - I really am building to a well-proven formula here - the release of the Revell Model A hiboy convinced me it was time to tackle this build. I didn't get a lot of build photos of the frame but here is how it ended up.

Don't forget, West Aussie modellers, it's on this weekend!

I remember that day well Tom. Funny as! I think we both got a few surprises back during our stay in 2013.

It's amazing how much life the open chute adds to the feel of your model! Nice job. Cheers Alan

Patrick, the biggest difference between the kits shown here and the Blue Beetle, Green Hornet and Black Widow is that they never had a stock variation of any description - they were purely a rod from the get go. The Blue Beetle is easily up to the standard of the other Model As but the Green Hornet and Black Widow are a little oversized and a little toy like in some areas. They can still be built up into a really nice model however. Hope that helps Cheers Alan

Yeah Greg, I'm a big fan of all the Monogram 1/24th scale models from this era. While in Pomona about five years ago I walked into an antique shop and found the original 6 in 1 box for the Model A coupe/cabriolet. When I opened it, the original builder must have wanted a stock Model A because all the original hot rod parts were left in the box, mostly still on the sprue! For $10 I practically skipped out of the store! I used an unbuilt EAarly Iron series phaeton and a gluebombed Cabriolet to build up these two versions with those fresh parts from Pomona. I scratchbuilt the tonneau for the cabriolet style roadster body and have recently obtained an original set of decals so I hope to soon repaint and apply the decals a little more carefully and the original builder.

Often overlooked is the Aurora 1/32nd scale rendition of Dave Stuckey's car. Issued as the 32 Skidoo and as you can see, it is surprisingly accurate except for the 409 that appeared in all but one of the Aurora range. Aurora then did some chopping up of it's own, adding a gun turret to the roof, a unicycle mounted in the front fender and some sort of mount on the running board, not to mention pink plastic. I built the candy red version about 20 years ago . The pink glue bomb from a friend in Adelaide a couple of years ago. I never did get around to painting the roof insert on the original model and don't have any special plans for the pink one just yet.

Hi everyone, Just wanted to announce the date for this year's show to all our Aussie modelling friends. After twenty years of fabulous fun, we have decided to make SMCS#20 the Grand Final so if you have been one of those guys who has said "I must go to that one year!" then 2018 is the year. We will look at running a different format show in the future but for now we are going to take a break. We still, however, want to go out with a bang so lets make this the best one ever. Can we crack 100 entrants? Can we crack 1500 models? Let's give it a good Aussie go! PM me for entry forms and details. Super Model Car Sunday West Coast Street Rod Clubrooms 12 Cusack Road Malaga Western Australia 8th July 2018 9a.m. til 4 p.m Adults $8, Children under 16 free Entrants $5, Children under 16 free Cheers Alan

Nice job Scott. I did a blue one about two years ago and other than bigger rear tyres and an aluminium floor pan, I built it from the box. For me, it was all about the history of the model rather than the accuracy. Certainly the cutaway style hood did appear on a number of real cars in the fifties/early sixties. Snake, if you cut down the doors for elbow clearance and added dual Brooklands style screens, I reckon you'd be there! Cheers Alan

The double door and the artillery wheel may both be from the Revell 37 Panel Delivery. Can't think of anything else they could come from - the MPC gangbusters 32 Chev panel had separate doors. Cheers Alan

That is a very creative build, Vesa! You have burred the line between rat rod and T.R.O.G. racer and come up with a totally believable roadster. It's great to see how many of the Hillbilly parts you were able to use. The white tyres are the finishing touch - I wouldn't have thought of that but they are they make the whole project work, especially with your great choice of colour. Cheers Alan

Sheer genius! Why didn't I think of that? What a natural conversion! I have a spare 34 3 window coupe body from the modified series - I'm going to have to see how that shapes up now! Excellent vision you have sir, and I love the other cool projects you have on your bench. Is the 60 El Camino an SMP or did you convert a Revell 60 convertible with an AMT 59 Elky? Cheers Alan

Fantastic job! My brother was heavily involved in rallying in the eighties here in Western Australia and after destroying a few Mk 1s he upgraded to a Mk2. I know these Mk 11s well. Went for a wild ride with him in the bush one night - your body finds it hard to believe the G-forces you can pull on a dirt road. Believe it or not, an Englishman now living in Perth has built a stunning replica of this car. I saw it at a book signing by the guy who was the Ford rally team manager - it was very impressive. Cheers Alan

Thanks everyone. I took a bit of a risk on this one so it is nice to see so many people appreciate it. When I get the improvements done I will be sure to post an update. Cheers Alan

You did a great job of hiding your issues, John. I have never looked twice at this as the box art doesn't do a lot for me but seeing a professionally finished version like yours has changed my mind. And not onyl does it make a great show rod, it would be an excellent start for one of those low slung T buckets that Greg was showing over in the General pages. Quite the parts n=mine this one. Thanks for going to the trouble of sharing this one with us all - it's been quite the education. Cheers Alan

I've always loved the early Cougars so I can't wait to see your results here. I would definitely look at some alternative quarter window treatments, just to separate the visual cues from the Mustang. Good luck in your endeavors. Cheers Alan