Erik Smith

You would need to be a superhero with x-ray vision to drive it...

Looks like a small block chevy?...

Kia? Probably more Kias on the road than Ramblers, Studebakers, and Nashs combined.

Very cool. Thanks for building it! I haven't seen a completed one before.

I haven't tried it in clear plastic. Judging by the perfor ance on regular plastic, if your window glass fit well, I think it would hold. If you had to clamp or tape your glass in and the joint would be under pressure, I don't know. Maybe, maybe not. It does help if you rough up the surface, but that might not be easy on clear parts. Bondic does work for quick filling of holes etc - just fill, light, repeat.

Looks to be exact same stuff as Bondic (looking at applicator, etc). I haven't been overly impressed with Bondic's ability to hold plastic together.

Tamiya did a 1/18 with engine - been a while since its been tossed in the mold but not hard to find one at a decent price.

Try the smaller can of Duplicolor. It's light gray, thin, smooth, and doesn't seem to be as hot as the big dark gray can. I used to use he dark gray a lot, now I've switched to the slightly more expensive small can like this:

Pinning parts is great advice. What type of glue are you using? I use CA glue 90% of the time - you only need a small amount, it dries fast, and can fill small gaps on joints, etc. I use the medium viscosity type - thin runs too much for my preference. I also regularly use a "kicker" to instantly dry the glue - just make sure you have things lined up correctly. For "glass", tape the parts in place and then use a clear glue around the edges - glue, like Testors clear parts glue, is pretty thin, so it wicks between parts well, and dries clear. Try to find a spot to glue that won't be readily visible. Paint and touch up after gluing is important. All modelers make mistakes - fixing those mistakes makes you a better modeler.

True that, brother...but these aren't the only kits they make in Japan...plenty run of the mill, non-historic four door and KEI cars in kit form...I am just glad for the variety.

Oh, nice. Probably be a great little kit - thier Subaru 360 is and I assume this will follow suit... The Japanese market seems 180 degrees from the US - and I love it! Base model 4 door cars, tiny KEI cars...imagine if Revell announced a 1980 Plymouth Volare four door and a 1985 Oldsmobile Firenza...

1974 Volkswagen Dasher

Nice. That's a pretty engine.

Very cool. That's some commitment.

"Why would anyone do this to a new car?" So people post about it and ask "why would anyone do this to a new car". A shiny 2010 Camaro is boring. Nobody would really care. This car gets attention, which is what the owner and builder want.

I would do a 1/25 and 1/8 scale 1971 Chrysler New Yorker: Becaue nobody will ever make a 1/8 scale model of this car. Followed by a 1971 Polara with police parts...

There was a thread with those kits on it somewhere on MCM forum...

That's actually really cool. When I read the topic title I imagined a blocky wooden model - yours is quite nice. The thickness of the balsa is masked slightly by the coloration - light colored surfaces and dark sides.

Dear David - As a Miata owner, I implore you to stop this blasphemy. Just kidding - looks cool so far - l like the look of the hard top.

They can be investments, just not good ones.I have purchased a couple large collections of models from hoarders - the families/friends didn't know what to do with the models, so sold them as a lot for about $2 per kit. I sold them individually - it takes a lot of time and patience - weekends - BUILDING DAYS! Some of the kits sold for a lot of money, but the collections were from the 60s-80s - thousands of dollars that could have been invested or used for a trip or ? But instead, those thousands of dollars sat in boxes on shelves for 50 years...I didn't make a lot of money, and I paid A LOT less than the original purchaser ($2.00 in 2015 vs .50 in 1962 - or almost $4.00 in todays dollars). There is a quote "We buy books because we think we are buying time to read them" - applies to models too...

Okay, here is what I came up with. The crew at Coyote Labs, my top secret automotive shop, wanted to build a modern all-out race style truck. I wanted a retro racer, and since I pay the bills... One 1964 Plymouth Belvedere plus various parts from a more modern chassis: I love old iron, but for an endurance race, I love modern power. Engine will be a variant of the new Hemi engine, starting with the 6.1 but, depending on my initiative, may end up with a few more horses. Now, to finish my current Mopar so I can get crackin' on this!

Yes.

Does anybody have a steel wheel from Lindberg's Police Charger that they can measure? Also, does the rim have a lip around the edge? Any info would be great.

I have the pictured punch. It is expensive, it is handy, but if I could do it over, I might actually find a more expensive one. The one from MM pictured does pretty good on some of the smaller sizes, but the larger ones tend to rip a little (on .020 and thicker plastic) and actually don't puch a perfect circle - they leave a serrated kind of edge. The two parts are difficult to separate too. Sometimes I need to insert a blade to get the clear plastic off the metal base. Overall, the finish didn't meet what I thought I was paying for.

I ordered one from Heller...and I am like Geoff in terms of needing another kit, but this (and the Mehari) are just too cool. So, the bonnet/hood/cowl piece (area behind grill, in front of windshield/screen) is clear? I know Heller does the clear door panel thing, but the clear hood is different. Why? To view the engine maybe?