slantasaurus

I seem to remember that Revell announced it was going to reissue the Triumph and Harley motorcycle parts packs a few years ago but then promptly canceled them claiming they didn't get enough preorders.

I'm pretty sure that is the pump to pressurize the fuel tank, no fuel pump on these.

That wouldn't have been a problem with Pontiac, they had to pay a licensing fee for every car built to the SCCA who owns the name Trans Am.

That's what I said.....with fewer words.

The lawyers took them all away.

I just checked my 71 factory lit, vinyl top wasn't standard on the 500 although it was common. In the movie pics it looks like the car has the canopy vinyl top which was introduced mid-year as the "Topper" package. I can also see the thin chrome trim strip just above the rockers and wheel lip mouldings that a 500 should have. There should also be thin chrome trim on the edge of the hood/front fenders and decklid/quarter extentions, in the pics you posted it looks like it has the rear trim, but I don't see the front trim. In the broshure it shows Charger 500 badges on the front fenders that aren't on the movie car (which has obviously been repainted), the car I owned didn't have those badges and there were no holes to indicate that it ever had those badges. A friend of mine also had a 500 without those front fender badges and I know it was an original paint car as the Plum Crazy was very faided. At least the kit has the correct dash for doing a 500 as I don't think anyone does the standard dash cluster in resin. Hope that info helps, I'll be watching this build.

With those taillights I'll bet that the car in the movie was actually a Charger 500 and not a base model, the bucket seats are another tip off as those were standard on the 500.

It has been a while since I ordered from RR, but I have ordered several pieces from Don and had no problems what so ever. I haven't seen any of his resin bodys in person, I ordered a couple conversion kits and some other small parts.

Consider this, anyone buying a 1:1 Acura is already willing to overpay for a Honda so what's a few bucks over retail on a model of one ???

I've been using Micro Krystal Kleer for years and have never had any interior mirrors or windows fail. I also use it for outside (door) rear view mirrors and the only failures are from getting bumped off and even then it takes more pressure than you would think and doesn't damage the paint underneith.

Very nice looking build Niko. I love all of these Monogram Cobra kits. The battery would be in the trunk.

Happy B-day Rob !!! Now get back to the bench and get some more done on the Studie.

Very nice build of DW's #17. That said, it was far from his last ride. The #17 Western Auto cars that he drove were for his own team that he had for a few years in the 90's, after that he drove the #66 K-Mart/Route 66 car and for a few races replaced Steve Park in the #1 Pennsoil car for Dale Earnhardt Inc.

So if I read this right the risk isn't for US but for the people who work with styrene in manufactuing. In other words, we sent a "known" carcinogenic used in industry over to China.......instead of the other way around......

The mistakes on Revell's 70 AAR Cuda kits are many and it depends on which kit you have. Their first attempt (green car on box art) has one set of problems including a Challenger length roof. Their second attempt (yellow car on box art) has a different set of problems including misshaped quarter panels. Both kits have the wrong wheelbase because they are both based on the old Monogram Challenger T/A kit. Your best bet is to take the grille and tailight panel and adapt them to one of the Monogram/Revell 71 Cuda kits as a builder on this forum is doing right now (see the On the Workbench section).

Nick sugested one way to do this, I would take a different route. I would remove the front subframe from the rest of the chassis and use Evergreen plastic stock to lengthen it to get the A arms where they are centered. The front of the subframe looks like it will need to be cut too far forward so I would add Evergreen to make a new front crossmember behind the stock one and then cut the stock one off. If you add the cross member before you cut the stock one things should stay stiff enough and keep things straight. Then I would add the firewall piece to the back half of the chassis and reattach the front subframe in a higher location to lower the front. It will help a lot if you drill out the ends of the subframe and add metal pins to strengthen the piece that you added to lengthen it and the subframe to firewall joint. I know it sounds like a lot of work, and it is but I think this is the best solution for long term strength. I'll keep an eye on your build and if you have more questions feel free to ask.

Lancealot Link, Secret Chimp

If it is like the last issue from the 80's its mostly stock. It's been a while since I've looked at mine but I do remember a stock dash, stock seats and door panels with 73/4 style patterns.

If you are set on a water cooled LSR, the entry/exit points on a Chrysler Hemi would be the same place that the water pump would bolt to the front of the engine, on either side of the timing chain cover. If your planned LSR would be running Nitro or Alchahol type fuels water cooling might not be nessasary as those fuels don't burn as hot as gasoline and a LSR run would be short enough that water cooling wouldn't be needed. Look into what some of the real LSR cars are running and decide how you want to do things.

Pretty good, but the 68 Charger box needs to lose a few flaps to make it more realistic.

I can't believe nobody has mentioned The Wraith. Awful movie, but some great chase scenes. Nothing makes me smile like a 69 Camaro in a fireball. And that Dodge M4S !!!

Here is my 1989 Cuda, Hemi of course. Oh, incase you ment models, I have one of those too.... This is the AMT Snapfast 74 Cuda...I have others but they aren't finished yet.

Looks like its really starting to come together now. I can't wait to see it with the Midget pearched on the back.

I think the biggest problem with kits, both new and old are tires. Many times they are the wong size or type for the car and the lack of sidewall detail is just maddening. I know the sidewall issue is due to licensing, but the fact that there are still kits out there with the old Good Year GT Radials and Michelen TRXs is unexceptable. The TRXs were only correct for those Mustangs with the oddball wheels and the Good Year GTs haven't been in production for at least 25 years.

Is that really much different than any of us building our daily drivers or cars that we have owned ???