Exotics_Builder

Both. Spray cans for flat or semi gloss. Either for interiors. Either for gloss colors on the exterior. Air brush for Alclad, gloss clearcoats and some detail work. For some air brushing, like Metalizers, I will use an external feed, single action since no complexity involved and easy to clean. Otherwise I have 3 different Iwata and 2 Badger brushes, one each set up with side feed to use the Aztec bottles and cups. For my compressor, I use a Silent Air unit that is quite quiet and has plenty of oomph for the brushes.

I use a color laser for my decals. There is also an advantage where you can use color appliques that will adhere to the black toner after passing through the printer (or heat laminator). I've used some Detail Master and Micro Mark paper with no opinions yet on one being better than another. I also clear with Microscale Decal Film to be sure no bleed. All clear decals are somewhat translucent and you need to consider this in regards to the model color. Sometimes you will need to double up to keep the model color from coming through, which adds to thickness (Fred Cady's decals were thin enough that this was less of an issue). I have yet to experiment with creating a white base for the decals to eliminate the translucency. Probably won't don't that until after we move and I set back up,

Some months back, when Revell showed up at a club event, there was no indication that a Ranchero was even on the Radar (which we took to mean not in the next two to three years). The most likely would be a gasser based on the 57 wagon. But, they were gearing up for the Star Wars VII toys big demand. Who knows when, if ever, they will do it. Your best bet now is the Flintstone Ranchero body on the Wagon kit. Like any Flintstone resin, you need to do a good amount of clean up to make it fit.

I agree. The only advantage they have, besides the wheels being nice, is that they have adapters for different hub systems.

Glad to help. Stuff like that happens. As well as the part eating carpet or the black hole in the hobby room that sucks in a part needed for completion!

Well kit looks like you're showing an FXX. If the Tamiya kit, there should be parts E2 and E3 that attach to the head. You could drill each "plug head" and wire to them.

Modern Ferraris use a plug boot similar to this: The kits should have these embossed on the heads and the plug wire runs to them.

Okay, I just looked at the generated source and it does resolve the paste into a link reference to PB (or any other hosting site for that matter).

I have to copy/paste from PB as the link insert link option does not work. It goes into never-never land. If I try IMG tag, it won't work either. I have tried it IE and Chrome. They both act the same. So I have to copy the image from PB and past in the message text. Now, I have not looked at the source to see if it converts to a link or stores the encapsulated image. But insert other media DOES NOT complete and it has been that way for several months. I admit I have not recently tried that, but the last time I did, about a month ago, it still behaved the same.

Yes! Forgot to add the thinning of the hinge pins. I also used .015 clear plastic for the rear windscreen.

Nice!

For some reason, this model is a DUST MAGNET. I can't seem to keep it clean for long. Maybe its the time of the year

Pretty good. Needed a lot of warming/bending at the passenger front side to get conformity. Gap at front is a little wider than I'd like. I'll see what the 599 GTO does when I do that one. The next one will be to finish the 246 Dino GTS and then, maybe, the Novitec F12 N-Largo using the Fujimi F12 along with C1 Models transkit.

Revell kit with Hobby Design wheels and PE set. Painted to simulate Rosso Fuoco by using Tamiya Metallic gold base, then Mica Red and cleared with TS-13 Clear.

The last couple of sheets I have purchased from a hobby shop were grainy. When applied, no amount of burnishing gets rid of it. Even clear coating and then buffing doesn't totally eliminate it.

Already preordered mine.

From what Revell said a few months back, the first of the all new tools will likely be first half of 2017. Since they're local and show up at events from time to time, we may learn more in the next 3-4 months.

Pretty much for what I gleaned from them. They aligned with Revell of Germany ratings

The 250 GTO looks like the Protar, but he's asking about the 250 SWB that is between the 275 and Boxer Berlinetta in the picture.

As best as I can tell from the photo, it appears likely to be the Italeri. I have an unbuilt downstairs, and from what I see of the body, it looks like it.

Looking forward to this for a Chevy PU.

World of Wheels Photo Album

As stated. That said, many people added multi-leaf rear springs to their 67's after the fact. But, it was not factory stock. Multi-leaf and staggered shocks were post 67

This kit also has multi-leaf rear springs which were not factory correct.

Cheap lacquer thinner works the best. Only use alcohol when I use Tamiya Acrylics (for the brush not me ).