Cool Hand

Any chance you could share/show some pics Roger.

As far as im aware they are all the same just re-released with different box art. Link's to instructions. http://manuals.hobbico.com/rmx/85-2052.pdf http://manuals.hobbico.com/rmx/85-4225.pdf

Which link did you copy and paste ?? I copied and pasted IMG link.

Thats all well and good if you only upload one at a time. But when im uploading 20 or more at one time, if I can reduce my upload time even if it is a few seconds then im all for re-sizing pics before upload. Just my personal preference.

Re-sizing the pictures/images before uploading to Photobucket will reduce the upload time.

You certainly got lucky finding and scoring all those kits Ray. Look forward to seeing you build them.

Yeah Andy is a nice helpful bloke, but Scaleautomobilia's website inventory is very rarely updated, so you have no choice but to ring him to see if what you want is in stock and order it over the phone. Scaleautomobilia

Im another who will recommend BNA model world, its my favourite place to go for supplies, huge selection of products .Quick processing and shipping. BNA Model world

Cant wait to see all the awesome parts your now going to be able to make with a lathe.

Very impressive work on those headers, I bet they were fun to make.

Personally if I ever did this conversion, I would do it the way Roger done it. As his method would require no tedious filling and sanding.

Very nice Dale, clean and well detailed. Engine looks like a beast with that injector hat. And as always a superb paint job.

Great work so far, look forward to seeing it all start to come together.

These 3 are the glue/adhesives I like to use. For gluing bare styrene. Engine halves,sub assemblies and parts that need time for adjustments/alignment. This is my choice, been using it since i started building many years ago. For parts that are painted,chromed etc, dont require time for adjustment, use it as filler and sometimes use it on window installs. I like to use this, instant strong bond no fogging when using small amounts. And for windows, lenses, clear parts, gluing various parts on finished assemblies and parts on the body after paint.

Good too see this Lowrider build pop here. I remember it well and think it's amazing and like it alot, the amount of work and detail you put into it is a showcase of your skills.

Looks like another mighty fine DeeCee creation is in the making, as always brilliant paint job mate.

Surprising to see this build get bumped, Thanks for all the comments.

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Very nice mate, some cool ideas you put into this build. Top job on the paint. I know its a got a modern'ish engine but I could imagine some old school gangsters or moonshiners driving this.

The paint on the Chevelle is a straight from the can finish, no wet sanding or polishing. As mentioned by Michael I do the similar prep to the body before primer and wet sand/block sand with 600 up to 12000. Apply the primer and wet sanded 4000 up to 12000. It did take some practice to get use to applying TS-14 in just the right way that it wont need wet sanding in between and after application. Knowing how much paint can be applied on the final heavy wet coat before it runs is key to a straight from the can finish.

As Bill mentioned to have a decent looking black paint job, it all comes down to the prep work. I prefer Tamiya TS-14 black. If you do the prep work cant go wrong with TS-14 and it wont need a clear coat.

Some of the knowledgeable members on this forum should apply as they would be a shoe in for the job. Bill (aka Ace-Garageguy) would be a good candidate.

Yep, and if you have the skill to weld like that and are fully certified. You can pretty much ask for whatever hourly rate you want to be paid from employers.