Cool Hand

These 3 are the glue/adhesives I like to use. For gluing bare styrene. Engine halves,sub assemblies and parts that need time for adjustments/alignment. This is my choice, been using it since i started building many years ago. For parts that are painted,chromed etc, dont require time for adjustment, use it as filler and sometimes use it on window installs. I like to use this, instant strong bond no fogging when using small amounts. And for windows, lenses, clear parts, gluing various parts on finished assemblies and parts on the body after paint.

Good too see this Lowrider build pop here. I remember it well and think it's amazing and like it alot, the amount of work and detail you put into it is a showcase of your skills.

Looks like another mighty fine DeeCee creation is in the making, as always brilliant paint job mate.

Surprising to see this build get bumped, Thanks for all the comments.

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Very nice mate, some cool ideas you put into this build. Top job on the paint. I know its a got a modern'ish engine but I could imagine some old school gangsters or moonshiners driving this.

The paint on the Chevelle is a straight from the can finish, no wet sanding or polishing. As mentioned by Michael I do the similar prep to the body before primer and wet sand/block sand with 600 up to 12000. Apply the primer and wet sanded 4000 up to 12000. It did take some practice to get use to applying TS-14 in just the right way that it wont need wet sanding in between and after application. Knowing how much paint can be applied on the final heavy wet coat before it runs is key to a straight from the can finish.

As Bill mentioned to have a decent looking black paint job, it all comes down to the prep work. I prefer Tamiya TS-14 black. If you do the prep work cant go wrong with TS-14 and it wont need a clear coat.

Some of the knowledgeable members on this forum should apply as they would be a shoe in for the job. Bill (aka Ace-Garageguy) would be a good candidate.

Yep, and if you have the skill to weld like that and are fully certified. You can pretty much ask for whatever hourly rate you want to be paid from employers.

First up I plan to finish this build. Inspiration for this one came from exesivefire's Track Rat Mustang build. Build this kit to suit the Cannonball sleeperball theme. Take the boat and trailer from this kit Transform the bass boat to look something like this. And build this as a tow rig for the boat. Finish the following builds.

No thanks Harry. Id rather put up with the heat than freeze to death.

The weather, its 42'c/107'f with 35kmh/21.7mph winds

In my opinion the set up you want to use will direct some of the fumes out the window, but being that the room is sort of a confined space the fan will more than likely create turbulence and stir up the fumes and over spray dust and spread it more through out the room. The fumes will dissipate in a short amount of time with the fan if you are only doing short paint sessions. More than anything I think the real issue will be the over spray dust even with the airbrush. Like I said thats just my opinion and 2 cents, I sure some people with more knowledge will hopefully provide additional comments and opinions based on their experience with painting indoors.

If your dead set on painting indoors in that room and on a regular basis, I think you would be far better of investing in a spray booth. One these booths would do the job and not overly expensive. http://www.hobbytools.com.au/airbrush-spray-booth-suit-case-style/ Also you can get this extension hose that you can direct and vent the fumes out the window. http://www.hobbytools.com.au/spray-booth-extension-hose-exhaust-kit-for-suit-case-style-booth/ Or you can check out hardware stores for flexible ducting that will fit on the back of the booth outlet. If you are unable to purchase a booth, then just do your painting outdoors and then bring the painted parts back indoors to dry I paint outdoors in the shed using spray cans and the airbrush when it aint sweltering hot. If you need some help with setting up an area and tips for painting outdoors send me a pm.

Looking forward to watching this build progress and seeing it completed.

It's great watching your wips, as you are always scratch building cool trick parts. This build is going to be a killa when complete. I like the triple twins that angle upwards. I got to ask what happened/any updates with the Camaro Lowrider you were building.??

I purchased a 60 Starliner and upon opening the kit to check out all the parts, I get to the floor pan and it is seriously warped. It is so bad I doubt that the hot water re-shape trick would work. So I e-mailed Round 2 with details and pictures to see if it was possible to get a replacement part, and the response I got was they cant help me out as im international and they only send out replacement parts within the U.S and that I should return to place of purchase within Australia. I had some defective parts in a Revell kit, So I go through the parts and service section of their site and week later the parts were on my door step and it cost me nothing.

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Excellent choice Dale.

Done well Ray, thats 8 more than I done. 49 is my favourite.

First I cold form/ bend the rod and hold at required angle then using a cigarette lighter flash the bend area a couple times to hold shape.

Hey Bill, how about you go spend some time at your bench working on a build and finishing it. Then show us some of this excellence you strive to achieve from all the knowledge you have.

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