Mike Kucaba

Well it is a little warm here now.

Google Cratex, or rubberized abrasives. Used these for years as a machinist.

My best friend on some of the 1/43rd metal models I've worked on has been a soft brass bristle brush for abrading some of the areas.Go easy on the pressure if it's a softer alloy like white metal. I may have some tires that may be better than what came with the kit. I'd need a diameter to check tho.And I don't know if the wheels would fit. LMK I recently prepped several diecast 1/43rd Willys for a long stalled project and used Tamiya Gray primer and it worked great for such small models. Just a thought.

Here in Az the temps are just right for drying paint. Lacquer or enamel or acrylics dry just fine.

There is a lot of reasons to like a lot of airbrushes, I know, and have about 10 of them. Everyone has a trait that is"ünique" that is a reason I own/bought them. I have Badger, Paasche, Iwata etc. and like ém all.

Great work all around! Nice job of cutting out the grille and everything about this is coming together quite well.

Harbor Freight sells a small chop saw. It works well for cutting metallic tubing of any shape and gets a clean straight cut. I've even cut some stainless hypo tubing with it. Last I looked it was about $20.00.

It sure ain't.

Neither am I Cutting all those rings gives me a headache. Maybe some denser foam I see at building centers. Maybe I should have said your work "inspires" me to seek a way to avoid cutting a bunch of wood.

Long shot without seeing the damage is to dip it in Future.

Okay,I might not know everything and things do change but please tell me about 2 part (2K) lacquer. The only lacquer I'm familiar with is one thinned with lacquer thinner. and that's it. Is this a UK product?

Gives me an idea for those styro-foam rings I see at Hobby-Lobby.

I believe there was an AMT '33'34 Ford that had a similar fit issue. You were instructed to file/sand down some area at the back part of the chassis on top.

I've seen those hubcaps in some Continenal kits ,but that large chrome piece and the lights confuse me.

Target practice, what else?

I think he is just pointing out that if you are doing "Correct" or " Period Correct" paint on say 1960-1970 the paint we see on most model(and real) muscle cars is 'way glossier than actual paint on cars of that time.

When describing some people, I use "Fossil" a certain AZ politician comes to mind.

Yeah, and I always get your answering machine!

If you are missing the parts, what will you use as the masters? Usually you have an existing part either kit part or scratched and you make your mold around that.

I just went thru a box full of clear parts and that part is in it!

Okay humor me for a bit. Is that chart for the Tamiya model or... 700.00 euro? ..

This should be a good thread.

Interesting build (for me) as I had a Chevy II (nova) SS L-79 optioned car. I have a 1/18th build on the 'way back burner. I'll visit this thread often. Nice work so far.

Been using them for years now mixed with 30minute epoxy. Great filler to add to the arsenal of fillers.

Also google ages of sails. Lots of stuff there.