Brutalform

Thanks. The 62 is a resin body, with the Starliner under pinnings. I have a whole bunch or Starliner bodies left that I stole the chassis from. I was on a Ford kick a while back and built a whole bunch of Thunderbolts, and lightweight Galaxies. I had a bunch of S/S decals that I wanted to use up. So as of right now, I have the 66 Fairlane Ulrey Bros car on the bench. Getting close to completion. My goal is to get all the WIPs that survived my recent move,( some didn’t) but it’s cool. I was really upset over my Moebius Ventura drag car. But I have a few more of that kit in the stash. I had a ton of work in that one. I almost cried.

I really enjoy the scotches with more peat flavor. But I get ya, I enjoy and good spirit, either scotch, bourbon, or whisky. A few friends and myself, like to get together and try new bourbons, with a fine cigar.

So, you are off the meds? I would like to get off my blood thinners, but they still keep me on them.

Do you prefer Highland, or Islay, or some other? I have a pallet for them all personally. Except I stay away from anything that is “blended”.

Ahhh, a fellow scotch drinker I assume?

I’m just a 58 year old, but, I’ve been around the block, and got beat up a bit, to where I was rough around the edges. I have spinal stenosis, I need a knee replacement, have carpal tunnel syndrome, and sleep with a C Pap. I had two stents put in my LAD, also known as The Widowmaker. I’m grateful for Covid because after I had it, I started to get these weird, tiny chest pains, and passed all the stress test, but when they scoped me they found two blockages. I felt like a young man again after the ticker got straightened out. I couldn’t believe how much you slowly decline over the years, and then, BANG! All of a sudden you feel new again. Since then, I lost almost 60 pounds, and I feel the better now, than I have for several years. I go to the gym three times a week, and now I just moved into a new house. I’m starting to get moving on building more models now, as these ailments aren’t as bad as they were when I weighed 280. Now, I hardly ever use the CPap, and can get more bench time in now, as it’s not hard on my body anymore. That’s what I get, I suppose, from driving professionally and making deliveries for the last 30 years. Hopefully I’ll be around another 15 to 20 years? I just don’t ever want to go back to where I was.

Here’s another that comes to mind.

Here’s the two my decals didn’t have. The trunk BAM SAM means, “ By All Means, See Al Means”, on the tail panel BBARC means “ Bonners Bad Azz Race Car. You have to see Al Means Ford dealership, to buy the car on Monday, that you saw winning at the track on Sunday.

They did a lot of sayings on the rears of the old S/S cars. I looked yours up, and it said it means “ follow me”. Possibly meaning to advertise “ Follow me to Tasca Ford”? Some T Bolts had some ads also.

Very cool indeed! When I built Phil Bonners Al Means 62 Ford Galaxie, I had decals from MCW back when Dave owned it. But they didn’t include the BAM SAM or the BBARC for the trunk and rear panel. Then I had Whoopi Kat print me up a set that still didn’t have the trunk decals. So I just built the car without those two. It sure would have been nice to have them on the model though.

You’re welcome. I bought a big bottle of the Novus # 2 since I use that one the most. But the three pack will work for starting out.

Came out fantastic. Looks mean and fast.

This is my method, other methods vary, but, there are more than one way to do it. First I would buy some Micro polishing cloths, that have grits from 1800 to 10,000. I rarely use anything coarser than 3200, though, unless I really have to knock some serious orange peel down. What I like to use is the Novus polishing compounds. # 2 and # 3 would be the workhorse of them all, with # 1 used to clean fingerprints. Others like to use the Tamiya polishing compounds. I have those too but haven’t used them yet, though they look promising. I’d practice on some painted body that you aren’t using, and start wet sanding the paint in one direction. Don’t press but let the cloth do the work. Then go to the next smoother grit, and sand the other way, and so on. By the time you get to 10,000 it should start looking pretty shiny. Like anything the more you do it the better you’ll get at it. Then you can use a piece of flannel cloth and go to town with the Novus. Again not putting hard pressure on the paint. Always helps to lay a few coats of clear so you can work it down without hitting the paint underneath. Then you can carefully pick the Novus out of the panel lines with a soft bristle brush, or equivalent.

https://obits.andersonfcs.com/obituary/bruce-sadewater

Sad to hear about Bruce passing. Great guy to deal with. He used to be a partner with Decals By Lucas, many years ago, and I was dealing with them both before he ventured off to do his own, SMP. I just received an Ulrey Brothers Fairlane decal last month. His passing will be a huge loss to the modeling community, as he made decals no one else does, or will.

Any idea when we will see them on shelves?

Mega Hobby has a preorder, but it’s just to let you know when they will be in via email. Says October 2024.

Thanks everyone!!! Much appreciated.

The ProTech aluminum nuts are not inexpensive either. But I get it, as they are small, and made of aluminum, and the tolerances are right on, so I expect to pay for quality. I was looking into RB Motion, but their website is kinda funky, I had read that they are WAY behind on orders. I might assemble my wheel lugs tonight. I have the studs (rod) tips painted, and the wheels drilled, thanks to some helpful info on here.

Just a mock up of the engine bay, and the modified grill with air screens. Pretty much is where it’s at right now.

The hood was removed, and overall this body requires a lot of work. The underneath of the hood had huge thick mold lines, post that needed to go, and then before you add the teardrop scoop, the hood is so thick that it was a little bit of a pain removing the styrene for it. Then when you factor in the panel lines need to be deepened, and sometimes missing with the blade, causing scratches, that had to be puttied, it’s a pain. Also the mirror mounts on the front fenders, and antenna mount on the rear panel was filled. The “Caliente” emblems were removed from the front fenders, and “Comet” removed from the hood. Hood still needs a little more sanding and putty, and cleaning up. Man, do I hate putty! Probably more than foiling.!!

Just a quick mock up of everything. Don’t mind the wheels as they are just resting on there. The cars front will be a tad lower in assembly.

I grabbed two Thunderbolt front rims and two steel rims from the parts bin. Added some panel line accent to tone down the chrome. I drilled the rears so studs and ProTech lugs can be added later. Slicks are AMT parts packs sanded with 400 grit paper.

The 60 Starliner donated the engine and trans. I’m using a few suspension parts from the Thunderbolt. I drilled the appropriate sized holes in the bottom of the oil pan, and top of the trans so it would be located in the Comet chassis mounting points.

After the big move, I finally got a little bench time in. I saw a YouTube video of this car, and I have one in the stash, plus many of other parts for the build. The 65 Moebius Comet was used for the interior, and floor pan, with the firewall, and fender wells intact, to see how it will all fit. The only problems I encountered was, a little trimming of the rear seat package tray, and the tops of the door panels needed to be trimmed down and sanded smooth. They stuck up past the doors when it was seated into the body. They also needed a little trimming where the panels met the seat. I will be using the 64 dash and steering wheel for obvious reasons as the 65 dash is different.