Skydime

Yeah, mine is the black and flame "Car Show" Edition as well. After some deliberation, I think I finally have figured out the main issue with the suspension. The common complaint here is with the lowered front suspension. Both the 55 BelAir and 56 Nomad use it. Heck, when you slide the 56 Nomad chassis in the 55, it is a perfect fit. When examining closely, one can see that the blob that is an excuse for a spindle mounts to absolutely nothing at top. With nothing to mount to on top, there is nothing to help align it and make up for the flimsy front setup ends that are out of shape. There are upper control arms in the kit but, let's face it, they really don't do much aside from sit there. I think the issues are just a result of a worn out tool. Overall, it is a good kit. And I love the 56 Nomad kit as well. But Eric, you are right. It is definitely not a "shake and bake" kit.

I must say...even though it's the wrong year grille headlights for this truck, this is the absolute best detailing of this grille that I have ever seen in my life! You have captured all of the depth and detail of the original 1:1 as I have never seen anyone else achieve. I would suggest a light swap but, it's too perfect to touch IMHO.

Abreviated to save space and directly address...no need to apologize for venting. I'm in the middle of the secend 55 and I've just ran into the motor problem for the first time. Seems the front motor mounts are further apart than the holes on this one, which will result in me drilling them out...or going curbside...depending on how much work I put into the motor. I really believe there is a warp in the mold for the lowered front suspension. And yes, the dash is a strange creature of its own. None of them gave me a real problem. They just all take me a minute to figure out the alignment of the pieces. I am not sure why they didn't just make it a one piece unit with the chrome insert.

Anyone ever try the clear version of Elmer's School Glue? I know that white works pretty well but, I was thinking that the clear may work even better.

Yep, happens with the lowered suspension every time on mine.

I dunno if it would work here but, I often use red and orange Sharpies with the extra fine point to color in the reflectors or inside of the lenses, depending on what I am doing. The orange/amber isn't always correct but, it gets the effect that I want most of the time. Yellow sharpies are good for turning chrome into gold quickly and cheaply too.

If the windows need to be extremely dark, and you can't get a really good view of the inner side through the windshield or open windows, just mask the front sides and spray flat black from the inside. It works great for me. No light shines through but, I don't mind. Also, there is a product out designed to spray on 1:1 light lenses to "smoke" them as well. It's by a company called TYC and the product is called Nightshades (SP?). With each layer you add, you get a deeper tint affect. And it still maintains transparancy.

OK, I have a problem that is really starting to bug me. I have two of the Monogram "Car Show" 55 Chevys and one of the Revell "California Wheels" 56 Nomads. Now, I'll be danged if all three of them do not "three wheel" with the front driver side up in the air. Before I get any polite reminders that we all occassionally do stupid things like put the wrong tires or wheels on the wrong corners or something is misaligned, I have checked, double checked, and triple checked these issues. This simply is not the case with these. The cars all just seem to have been warped out of the box. They all came from different stores, at different times. And they have all been stored with the rest of my kit stash...which incidentally has no other kits with a warped chassis and stays between 65 and 75 degrees F. So, I guess my question is, does anyone else have this problem? Or does anyone know of tool issues for these kits? It's really starting to get on my nerves having to warm these up and warp them back into shape.

Alright, now we're talking! These cars were great back in the day. I got my popcorn. Let's go.

Wow! Talk about timing! My wife and I just started doing some pre-spring cleaning to my office/hobby room and were just talking about how I was going to clean my cars. At least the survivors from earlier last year and rebuilds from my old junkyard kits.

I would actually love to see this happen. Not all modelers are immediately knowledgeable of the scales and original brand releases of every kit. I don't know about everyone else but, my general association is Monogram with 1/24th scale and Revell with 1/25th scale. This would allow all buyers to immediately know the scale of a new kit without even picking it up off the shelf. Round 2 makes everything even more confusing. They release old MPC as AMT, AMT as MPC. It's so bad that I guarantee the most experienced modelers are confused at times. Don't get me wrong about what I am saying here. Round 2 and Revellogram are two industry staples that I appreciate in every way. I just wish they would make everything simplified and straight forward in a way that all modelers can easily understand.

Harry, I've got a 9 year old daughter. That's actually what she would probably say if she saw this.

I hear ya. I work customer service, at home, on third shift. I usually get about five calls in eight hours. This is about the only thing on the internet that can keep me awake that long. There's always something new and when I review older posts I've already seen, I still discover new things. With the craziness and disorganization of most of the other online model car forums I have seen, I would go as far as to say there would be a tremendous blow to the model building industry without this site. I can't say that I blame Gregg for his zero tolerence stance. I'm not going to attack anyone because I try not to look at names too often when I see arguments on here. However, maybe if a few people get banned (no one specific), then they will inform others they know from the forum and the word will spread just how serious Gregg really is. Then maybe we can all just get back to building and appreciate our hobby along with what it brings to or draws from the world around us.

1 98 Up Chevy S10 crew or extended cab 2 Chevy Colorado crew or extended cab with reg/extended cab short bed 3 Toyota Stout of any year

Im almost always gonna say black and chrome if there isnt a billet or full chrome choice...but thats just me. However, I think a bright paint job, possibly that orange, with the black and chrome wheels would look awesome.

Dave, whatever it was, good to see everyone again!

NP, Harry. You've had my back when I was down before and I didn't see any point in everyone getting upset that you were passing along automotive related information.

This is much to do about nothing. It's the "General" section. In case we have all forgotten, that is a place where general information (whether it be model kit related or not) that falls within the sites guidelines can be posted. Harry simply pointed out that a car that was "born" in the United States will be assembled in the United States again. He didn't say Canada can go take a giant leap somewhere. He didn't put anyone down. He just stated a car related fact. I had a 94 Camaro, Canadian built, excellent car. But that doesn't mean that the ones manufactured here in the USA were or will be junk. And it doesn't mean Harry was bashing anyone by saying the assembly was coming back here.

If I saw that at a truck show, I'd just drop my lower jaw and say, "Say Wuhhhhhh?" ...while shaking my head. A for effort because someone has some mad skillz if this ain't photoshop F for execution because it just doesn't flow

The dremel is a great tool for our hobby. Either way you go about it, good luck with the project. I'll be watching!

Well, first off, I wanted to say that your body work skills are proving very useful in your modeling from the very start. A lot of guys wouldn't attempt these types of builds after 20 years of experience. That said, I am not sure what kind of tools you have purchased so far. The reason I mention this is because the regular cab conversion will need one of the straight handled saws you see here all the time and an Xacto knife. What I recommend doing is taking the back of the xacto knife and scoring the back of the door jam SLOWLY until you cut all the way through on both sides. Take the saw and finish going down the rocker panels along the back of the door. Flip the cab upside down, gently start sawing through the top edges of the door jam into the roof. This should help you begin a straight cut. Once the cut is started on each side, you can lay a straight edge of tape on top as a guide from there. Then take the extended cab, score each side evenly behind the windows all the way down and repeat the roof process. This should give you an even regular cab and back wall portion to glue back together. Just my two cents but, I hope it helps.

This is a wonderful build. It's probably my favorite build I've ever seen of this kit.

Yeah, just where are the keys to that thing anyway? Looks so real!

This thing looks really slick. I like the more modern or performance look on tri-fives but, this one is by far an exception! Great Work! BTW, I think that guy just drooled on the driver door panel.

Good plan! Mine was my first styrene body drop so, I did it like an actual 1:1 body drop, filled the spaces with plastic like you would sheet metal and eliminated the risers. So, you might wanna say I figured that out the hard way.