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av405

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Everything posted by av405

  1. The antenna with the black base was bought on ebay many years ago. I haven't been able to find them again since. The other 2 are satin pins, one having been cut. They are my least favorite part of the car, but I used what I had. Thanks! https://inquarters.com/Large_Scale_Law_Enforcement.html Thank you!
  2. Thanks! I think styrene strips would be your best bet. The extra chrome that runs along the bottom of the doors could be simple. But with the chrome on the roof that runs down the b-pillars, you'd definitely want to make sure the roof is straight. The roof on my particular kit isn't straight, something I unfortunately noticed too late. Thanks! Ha, I wouldn't describe myself that way. There's a few things not visible to the eye that I messed up on. Not noticing the roof wasn't level until it was too late is one of them. I look at it as an opportunity to learn and improve, not to beat myself up on it.
  3. Here's my 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria - Arizona Department of Public Safety. This is a full resin kit from @Greg Wann. The wheels, spotlights, Ford decals, and interior/exterior police equipment all came from the Lindberg Crown Victoria kit. Decals are the just released InQuarters decal set. Push bumper is scratch built. Paints and clear are all Tamiya spray cans, with wet sanding and polish after. This is the first full resin kit I've built and overall I'm pleased. There's some things I wasn't happy with concerning my own work, but this was a great learning opportunity for me. I highly recommend the kit, but be aware that it won't look good without bare metal foil applied.
  4. With something that small, I would just touch it up. Since it's a thin portion, just put tape around it and have at it with a thin brush or even a toothpick with paint on the end. It by no means looks perfect but at least from far away it looks good. Others might disagree but if you're happy with the rest of the body and only a small section is the problem, I personally don't want to go through the effort of restarting.
  5. Well that's the cost of going down the 3D/resin/aftermarket route. You either pay $100 for a full kit or about the same to purchase a body + donor kit + extras.
  6. Lately the clear cases have been on sale at Hobby Lobby. I was able to scoop a bunch up at cheaper prices. If you're on Facebook, their marketplace is a great source for finding display cases of all sizes for good prices. If you're not on facebook, you can usually find these times of cases on most of the big online marketplaces/apps. I found this one last year. I liked it because I was able to put it on top of my desk since I don't have room for a larger standing display. Listed for $45, got it for $40. It'll fit 12 models. Definitely big savings over the individual cases.
  7. Yawn. I guess I can't really complain though, the first 3 quarters of this year have brought/will bring a lot of things I've wanted. I suppose that's a good thing, a little bit of something for everybody.
  8. Don't hold back simply because its from Ukraine. I can vouch for that seller, the quality of his work, and his ability to ship and deliver in a timely manner. He's in a part of the country not affected by the war.
  9. Screenshot of decal sheet:
  10. I wonder if the Revell 1991 Caprice chassis would be a good option? It was the recommended chassis for the Modelhaus 1981-1985 resin Impala. As for wheels, check out CustomSquads: http://www.customsquads.com/uploads/1/0/3/6/10365684/cs_price_sheet_1-2018.pdf It looks like the CS-CWC-Type 8 wheel is one of the actual wheel covers that Caprices of the era would have had, if not close to it.
  11. Here's the box art. I'm very excited it was changed to a 1982(-1987) model. It opens up a lot more possibilities. I'm looking forward to seeing the decal sheet on this one.
  12. That roll out desktop is neat!
  13. I've done one WIP thread and in retrospect, it was a great way to stay organized and keep track of what materials, paints, paint colors, etc. I used. I've gone back to it a few times for reference on my current build (which is not a WIP). With that being said, I think everyone has to do it their way. I've seen some WIPs that documented every little thing down to a push button on a console and that had multitudes of photos. These are my favorites but I don't have the patience for this so I covered basic "accomplishments" on my own thread and kept it simple. It was more about "this is what I did" as opposed to "this is how I did it." I found this to be a good balance.
  14. Gorgeous build! You really pulled it off!
  15. Here's the decal sheet and new grill and headlight setup. Really loving the expanded decal sheet:
  16. Outstanding build!
  17. Compared to UK cars, you're right. But in reality, only a small segment of American cars have been kitted. By the looks of things, the majority of American kits are from the 1960s-1970s .
  18. Thanks for the answers fellas.
  19. I agree with this train of thought. But like I mentioned in my post, I'm always looking to improve and don't mind trying new methods. Thank you for your response.
  20. I tried searching for this on the forum but couldn't find a good thread on it: My process involves Tamiya or Mr Hobby primer, tamiya spray cans, tamiya TS-13 clear, wet sanding 3200-12000 in one direction, then scratch remover and polish. I've done a few models like this already and have been happy with the finish, but I'm always looking to improve. My question is, should I alternate the direction I wet sand in with each grit? For example, 3200 left to right, 4000 up and down, 6000 left to right, etc. I seem to remember reading that somewhere. Thank you in advance.
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