av405

Lately the clear cases have been on sale at Hobby Lobby. I was able to scoop a bunch up at cheaper prices. If you're on Facebook, their marketplace is a great source for finding display cases of all sizes for good prices. If you're not on facebook, you can usually find these times of cases on most of the big online marketplaces/apps. I found this one last year. I liked it because I was able to put it on top of my desk since I don't have room for a larger standing display. Listed for $45, got it for $40. It'll fit 12 models. Definitely big savings over the individual cases.

Yawn. I guess I can't really complain though, the first 3 quarters of this year have brought/will bring a lot of things I've wanted. I suppose that's a good thing, a little bit of something for everybody.

Don't hold back simply because its from Ukraine. I can vouch for that seller, the quality of his work, and his ability to ship and deliver in a timely manner. He's in a part of the country not affected by the war.

Screenshot of decal sheet:

I wonder if the Revell 1991 Caprice chassis would be a good option? It was the recommended chassis for the Modelhaus 1981-1985 resin Impala. As for wheels, check out CustomSquads: http://www.customsquads.com/uploads/1/0/3/6/10365684/cs_price_sheet_1-2018.pdf It looks like the CS-CWC-Type 8 wheel is one of the actual wheel covers that Caprices of the era would have had, if not close to it.

Decal sheet:

Here's the box art. I'm very excited it was changed to a 1982(-1987) model. It opens up a lot more possibilities. I'm looking forward to seeing the decal sheet on this one.

That roll out desktop is neat!

I've done one WIP thread and in retrospect, it was a great way to stay organized and keep track of what materials, paints, paint colors, etc. I used. I've gone back to it a few times for reference on my current build (which is not a WIP). With that being said, I think everyone has to do it their way. I've seen some WIPs that documented every little thing down to a push button on a console and that had multitudes of photos. These are my favorites but I don't have the patience for this so I covered basic "accomplishments" on my own thread and kept it simple. It was more about "this is what I did" as opposed to "this is how I did it." I found this to be a good balance.

Box art:

Great save, beautiful finish!

Gorgeous build! You really pulled it off!

Here's the decal sheet and new grill and headlight setup. Really loving the expanded decal sheet:

Here's a better screenshot:

Outstanding build!

Compared to UK cars, you're right. But in reality, only a small segment of American cars have been kitted. By the looks of things, the majority of American kits are from the 1960s-1970s .

Thanks for the answers fellas.

I agree with this train of thought. But like I mentioned in my post, I'm always looking to improve and don't mind trying new methods. Thank you for your response.

I tried searching for this on the forum but couldn't find a good thread on it: My process involves Tamiya or Mr Hobby primer, tamiya spray cans, tamiya TS-13 clear, wet sanding 3200-12000 in one direction, then scratch remover and polish. I've done a few models like this already and have been happy with the finish, but I'm always looking to improve. My question is, should I alternate the direction I wet sand in with each grit? For example, 3200 left to right, 4000 up and down, 6000 left to right, etc. I seem to remember reading that somewhere. Thank you in advance.

Here's a low quality screenshot of Hpiguy's latest video showing the decal sheet illustration on the kit box.

If I have to paint outside, I'll paint near a fence line where there is no grass or in my garage, just inside the door.

Great, Thanks Dusty

True. I was thinking of my specific example, but his shouldn't even need a recoat. I just wasn't sure if he was going to lay down clear and/or polish.

I just primed a resin body with Mr. Hobby 1000 after going through prep work mentioned above and didn't have any issues. Stick to it but test it on a small part after its been cleaned to make sure the primer is compatible with your particular kit. Not all resin is created equal.

Wet sand very lightly with 2000 or 3000 grit, then respray the area with a single coat or 2 light coats. It's a very easy fix, just use a light touch.