vypurr59

Yes they do have all the "tools", but the main reason kits are not produced is licensing. It costs alot of cash to get the "rights" to a manufacturers product. Just an example of what goes on to produce a Nascar kit. The manufacturer(Ford,Chevy...) wants a cut, then the Nascar guys want their cut. And don't forget about the driver of said subject(Jimmy,Dale,Tony...) they get a cut. The kit without the licensing fee would cost the average model company about $9 ea. for a run of 5000 kits. Add all those costs and then another 20% for the hobby reseller.

It is comparable to Alclad, but you cannot handle the finish. Seems to dull out after touching. I have not used their styrene product, but have used the RC car finishes for years.

Westley's Bleach White, removes the chrome and the lacquer coat underneath just soak in it for about 15 mins and rinse. Use gloves with this product!!!

We have all at one time or another, had to work under those conditions. We won't squeal on ya. Go ahead and paint away.

http://paintref.com/paintref/index.shtml here is a good paint reference

Welcome to another fellow Ohio resident.

Mine are photos, printed and glued to the inside walls, a little balsa wood to trim out and some blending paint.

Be careful of what type of wood putty you use. Some are lacquer based. Some are alchohol based. I would probably mix super glue with some baking soda as a tack and filler.

It is possible that the tip on the airbrush is smaller than required for the metalflakes in the paint. I have to use my largest tip for metallics.

I do all the above, tweezer/toothpick, but I soak mine directly in the setting solution to remove the backing. Slides off easier it seems and easier to position. Just my method.

I have used white glue for mockups where I may want to move them around a bit. Because of the slow drying time, you can reposition it many times over. For assemblies I use rubber cement. Peels off after use, leaving no residue, but as always, I wipe with an alcohol pad before painting and or permanently gluing.

Welcome from another Ohio member.

Hot glue would leave a large space between the parts, as it is much thicker. Hot glue works good to attach parts to something for painting, but for mocking up I would stay away.

If ya got em then use em. Was just thinking if you didn't have them, 1 would do the trick. I have taken this outfit all over the country and never had any issues with moisture.

Have you used them to hold while you paint? I think these may dissolve when exposed to enamels and lacquers.

Yup, as Harry said, the Jelly Roll pen has the smallest tip. About a buck at Pat Catans or Michaels craft stores, and at Office Depot about $2

I use Milliput, 2 part epoxy. Can be smoothed with water and a finger. Offered in many colors, to allow for easier paint coverage.

I have a Badger Compressor, and I took and old freon tank, bought a tire fill kit from the parts store for $12, and hooked the compressor to the tank. It never does fill up, because of the low pressure that the compressor has. But it does not surge while use. I put the tank in a milk crate and attached the compressor to the outside of the crate with zip ties. This outfit can be easily transported from site to site. The tank you are looking at has a drain petcock, so needing only 1 water trap on the output from the tank should be sufficient. I did add a regulator after the moisture trap. Also use quick disconnects for changing from a airbrush to a blow nozzle (for dusting off) or to a touch up gun.

Those screens are very nice. Glad you shared the pics.

Have not used this tool, but others I have used, do not make any 90 degree bends, It only rolls or curves the metal.

For the larger scale model, look into Testors, Franklin Mint motorcycles, Harleys have similar front fenders. The Bikes are in 1/12 scale, so should be close for the 1/8th.

The jig you made was a stroke of genius. I have been consistantly fighting my miter box, but that jig will now correct that. Thanks for the tip.

I use the sanding sleeves in the picture. They have several grits to choose from.

I use the tire as a guide. I use a pencil compass and draw on the body. I use a dremel up to the line, and finish sanding by hand.

I use clear coat as adhesive for photo etched scripts. Not sure how it will react to clear parts.