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While I'm not into the Si Fi Figures I still recognize the detail painting work done on these and think it looks great.

While this is only my opinion and I understand that others may feel differently about it. I think in the end they will lose many readers/viewers with this change. Their advertisers should also take notice as fewer people will look at their adverts on line than in the magazine. I can understand how this could lower their cost of operation by going digital but is it really providing the same or better service to their subscribers ?? I'll try it for a while as it seems that since I have been a long time subscriber to many of these listed titles I will be getting "free ?" viewership.

Great looking engine. I'm not trying to be a kill joy, but you might want to relook at your engine references. The Vacuum Advance unit on the Distributer I think should be on the passenger side of the Distributer and the Ignition Coil would be mounted on top and to the rear of the Intake Manifold. As mounted the Coil would contact the Firewall. Looking forward to seeing the seat insert decals.

I like the chopped top and the '32 Grill idea, except that it is higher than the roof of the body.

Great looking Pin Striping. You could hang out at car shows and make some money.

Looks like an older Show Truck that has fallen on hard times.

The finish looks perfect. I can't remember any vehicle painted red at that time that didn't oxidize just like this.

This build turned out very nice. I built one of these a couple of years ago, it is not one of AMT's better efforts that's for sure. The engine is supposed to be a big block Chevrolet, just not like any other big blocks you may have built before. The trim all looks nice and the assembly is cleanly done.

Very nice, and I like the Stig in the background.

Great looking Monte. Your paint finishes are always so smooth, what type of clear are you using ? I'm vary partial to this body style. We ordered a new 1986 Mont Carlo SS in white with the burgundy interior. We kept it 16 years and got first place at twice with it at Super Chevy Sunday Show at Sears Point in Sonoma California.

I bought some tubbing representing 1/25th 3" Duct Hose from Scale Model Speedway 100Gilmour Ct. in Owensboro, Ky. 42301. I got these several years ago and I'm not sure if they're still around or if someone else has taken over for them. Looking at the package there is no Web site listed. You could also check the After Market/ Resin section on the forum. There is a list of many suppliers their and some may offer what you need. The plastic straw idea might also be worth checking out, and you wouldn't have very much invested.

Got an E Mail today that my Super Chevy and Car Craft magazine subscriptions that are paid well into 2020 are being terminated and I'm being offered on line only option of Motor Tread, which I also have a subscription in print now, or Hot Rod magazine, witch I also have a subscription to, in place of Super Chevy and Car Craft. Do I feel ripped off, yes I do. Do I have any say in this, evidently not. I guess I'm just old fashion but I have always liked to read the magazines and save some that I feel have information I would like to have at a later date. I know you're supposed to be able to look up old articles and they may have even saved all of the pictures all stored in the Cloud. What happens when it rains and the cloud dumps all this information ? I wonder how many others here are having the same problem.

The only one I know off was from AMT 3 in 1 #5623-149. To my knowledge this was only issued in 1963.

This term has always set me on edge when I have heard it used. More than half of my life, more tears than I care to disclose, Has been spent in several different parts of California. You "Roll a Stop" in California it was going to cost you a lot $$$ and it should. In the KC Metro area the drivers seem to look at a Stop sign as nothing more than a suggestion. Stop lights are just run if they haven't been red very long. As for establishing what does or doesn't constitute a stop may I suggest reading the little books that the state's DMV hand out. Sign me driving very defensively in the heart land.

I like this build. Besides being a great looking pickup the back ground story as to why the build in the first place is the best of all. Time is getting short and please let us know how everyone enjoyed it.

Beautiful presentation of a great Rally car and its driver. I'm glad you displayed all of the interior detailing in your build and the exterior finish and all of the sponsors and paint trim. I have lost many evenings watching the various rally's on You Tube.

Very interesting looking body and I like the NASCAR chassis idea. The picture with the beige upper and white primer lower looks very OEM. The Garnet Red lower really makes it look aggressive.

Besides the flat color the headlight treatment catches my eye along with the grill not being present. I'll have to start looking for those wheels.

Beautiful looking Camaro. The paint job is extremely smooth. Nice Pro Touring type stance.

Very clean looking build, especially the foil work. While the color may seem unusual now, it wouldn't have been that uncommon in '61. You used my personal all time favorite wheels.

They all look great. I like your build style on these.

That's about the best looking Dart build I've ever seen. The excellent paint work shows how straight the body is.

Great looking builds with a lot of diversity in style.

I really like the understated look of that color. As for wheels, and this is something that can depend on personal taste, The American "Coke Bottle" wheels the spokes look to large. The larger diameter five spokes look better if this is what appeals to you. The stock road wheel looks good also. A suggestion that may or may not be to your liking would be a Crager style chrome wheel. These where kind of the default aftermarket wheel for MoPars at the time. I think Mopar might of even had something between the dealers and Crager as a wheel supplier at that time they were that common. Wheel, just like the stance, are a very personal thing. By the way that's the stance I almost always go for.

You're moving right along here. My suggestion on the body and parts prep prior to color coats. On the parts on still on the tree's and such, look for the mold parting lines. These really show up with a color coat and or a gloss coat. Sanding the body will show you any imperfections in the body and of course the mold lines again. I usually will apply a second light coat of primer and then sand with a pad somewhere in the 2800 to 3000 range. When you're satisfied with the surface of all parts re-scribe all of the door and trunk body lines since there will be a certain amount of primer build up in these areas. I would also lightly run a good #11 blade along any body trim moldings that you're going to foil or add any type of chrome paint too at a later date. This will help make the parting lines easy to find after the color coats of paint.