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That paint looks very smooth. I don't think you would even need to polish it. Have you considered painting the top and the rear fender coves White ?

I have used Testors one coat lacquer #1840M Flaming Orange on a '56 Nomad. The color is close but does have a little more metallic than the OEM but it looks great with Tamiya TS-46 light Sand. This will get you very close to the Sierra Gold and Adobe Beige color combination that was so popular.

You could check with any window tinting company in your area. While not common, Ihave seen cars with windows tinted with both Silver and Gold reflective film. Maybe they'll have a few scraps they would give you or charge you for some.

I try and do as much body correction as possible before the first coat of primer. After sanding everything as smooth as possible it's time for the first light coat of primer. Follow this with some very light sanding to show any other imperfections that couldn't be seen before priming. This should leave the body surface with almost no primer showing. This should bring out any surface that you couldn't see before. You may find some areas that will need additional filler or just sanding and leveling. I suggest a very light primer coat before going to color coats. I will use sanding pads in the mid to high 2000 range as this gives the color coats something to adhere to and you know that the surface is as smooth as possible.

Great idea for the roof. You will be hearing from the Mopar faithful about your valve covers soon. They look like big block Chevys to me. I like the body color.

Very clean looking build. Nice paint and finish. The white interior and inner fenders does put it in the early '60's. The small block Chevy is a much better choice than the two the kit provided.

I really like this idea with the Lark. Your modifications to the body make it look much lower and wider. Very nice interior and a great paint job.

Very nice looking build. You really got the glitter finish on the paint job. Nice stance and I like the big and little tires.

Great looking little Study. I remember when the Aluminum Moon Disks were the hub cap to have. The flames are nice also.

They are at opposite ends of the spectrum from one another, but they both look great. You captured the look of a very beat up old car and the perfect street racer in the proper shade of black. They are both detailed for just the right look.

Great looking build and nicely detailed.

Beautiful looking Corvette. I like the Valve covers and Air Cleaner. Interior looks very realistic and the Seat Belts and Ignition Keys are a perfect addition.

I like the clear top insert idea. I also think your build looks better with the chrome windshield surround and wipers.

The body color and the seat covers match perfectly. Chevrolet had a color like this in the early '50's that was very popular on their higher end models.

On mine it just says Gray. I didn't even know about the other shades of Gray. No snide remarks from anyone on the shades of grey please. I think I'll pick up some of the dark grey the next time I go to the hobby shop and just see how that would work also. If the dark grey is dark enough it might work better than Black on lighter body colors also.

Besides the engine, chassis and interior all being show worthy the paint color and finish look perfect.

The Whipple is cool. The lowering is cool, if done correctly. The Wheels are an acquired taste at best. I'd have the shop check out the suspension and just how they had it lowered. Some suspension kits will put the rear shocks at such an angle that they bind during their travel and can cause the rear to bounce on rough surfaces. In the front it sounds like they used more than drop spindles. If the front springs are to short the front end will be bouncing off the bump stops, this will be easy to see if the lower control arms are hitting the bump stops. Correcting a few iteams and you have a very cool "Burban.

You might want to try Tamiya's Panel Line Accent Color for your door lines and any other body lines for that matter. I have used their Gray on a White model and it looks very good. They offer several colors and it comes in a small square bottle with a very fine brush attached to the lid. Like you, I have always used a Black wash or a very diluted Black wash. This new product is very thin and just a small dab of paint and this stuff will take off down the line on its own. I suggest using very little in the brush until you get used to how it flows.

I sliced the side of my finger in much the same manor but with an under counter light fixture. They also glued it back together instead of stitches. I guess now I know what a plastic model must feel like.

Looks good, especially for a very basic kit to start with. If it were up to me I'd leave off the hood scoop or paint it to match and use it that way.

I find bears and most other creatures interesting to watch. Recently on the news they were covering a story on a bear that had become very friendly and even allowed people to take selfies with him. The problem seems to be the authorities feel this makes the bear dangers to humans as it may attack. So they captured the bear and then killed it. While I don't like what they did, I guess at some level I can see their side of the deal. I think as much as we like to see wild life we should minimize our impact on them for their own good.

Great looking body work. I look forward to seeing this in living color.

While I have most often built models with the theme that "this is how my 1:1 car would look" if it were mine. As time has gone by I find showroom stock more appealing. The hard part there is making it accurate and while rely on my memory for the most part I find getting reliable accurate information harder to find all the time. I have seen so many so called experts get it wrong for a large part of the time.

Thank you for the info. These pictures show just how much is done on a build of this nature. Sometimes it's hard to truly appreciate the workmanship that goes into a car like this.

Great looking picture, I love the body lines on this '32.