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Interesting build. While not into the Rat Rod builds for myself I still enjoy the engineering that builds show. Always fun to see what different engines are used. I'm not a photographer, but you might retry your pictures with a darker background since everything is light colored now. Maybe a dark gray, to dark and you might not see the tires.

I think what you have is the -65 Impala with the Foose wheels and decals. From what I understand Revell is going to offer a model of the '65 Impala that Foose sliced and diced for SEMA. I'll be looking forward to that one for sure. This is still a great kit though.

I guess it's which ever way you want to do it. For my self I usually try and wire the distributer with correct firing order. Now if you really want to start some controversy ask about laying the plug wires on top of the exhaust manifolds on small block Chevys and 312 Fords. These and many others were routed down the back side of the heads and then came up to meet the spark plugs as well as the front two wires passing behind the exhaust manifold going to the front two cylinders. Unless you had a loom of some sort to support the plug wires you would have an engine miss very quickly.

The before even looks nice, but the after looks perfect. Nice chop on the top and love the Arden flathead.

Great detailing all around. Little things like the radiator support that you don't often see done, like the front steer also.

Outstanding detail on the front suspension and engine.

Turned out great, like the Pro Street look. A lot of detailing on the engine. I did a similar conversion a couple of months ago of a stock '67 El Camino that I owned for many years. I'd be interested on where you cut the front end. Using the '67 Revell Chevelle I cut mine at the firewall. Afterwards I found out that the firewall on the '66 El Camino kit is different from the '67 Chevelle. I almost bounced it off the wall before I finally got everything to match up.

Great job on this conversion. I have seen resin bodies sold here of the same type of sedan delivery and none of them look this good. The roof and the body flow together perfectly.

Not into these games, can't stand drivers with phones anyway. Last night watching the 10pm news they had something that sounds like this game that some women was playing. As part of the game she stopped on the side of the hiway and went under the bridge to find something as part of the game. She got far more than she was looking for. She found a dead body at the waters edge. The police said that it was a good thing that she found it since a rain storm was on the way and they were sure that the body would have been washed away in the storm.

I remember a story going around when the 1:1 first hit the show circuit, that the reason for the paint scheme was based on a shark that someone had gotten while fishing in Florida.

Great looking build, the paint looks perfect.

The gravel guards would be interesting and add additional flare. As others have mentioned, some very thin aluminum or even brass sheet stock that can be formed and then painted or foiled. I remember seeing some of these with horizontal ribs, that would add to there appearance also. You might even think about forming your own tail lights. Draw different shapes on small pieces of paper and move them around on the body till you see something you like. Not expensive and easy to do. When you find what looks right then form it out of some red plastic with a foil back to make it look like a lens.

A very clean dust free area for painting is a must and some type of cover as it gasses out will help. In addition to pets and other natural disasters be sure that the clothing you are wearing does not create static electricity that will attract dust no matter how clean the area is.

Well weathered, I like the quarter panel repair, it adds to the look of a car being restored.

Very nice build with what I think was the best color/interior combo of the day. Except for the hood scope I remember a car that looked exactly like this in about '65. The guy had a 300hp 327cuin four speed with the dash tach. It sat just like this and even had the same wheels. You could hear the car a block away with headers and glass packs. Thanks for the memories.

Very realistic build.

I like how this is turning out. The darker richer color of red gives this body style a much better look, and again the stripe looks just right now. The foil looks perfect. The seats are more in keeping with the more sophisticated look compared to "the red tomato".

Great weathering, looks like the car has led a hard life.

Really great detailing on all the components so far. The Diorama adds to the appearance of the different parts. Look forward to the rest of this build.

Beautiful body work, I really like the Lincoln bumpers. The "skirts" do seem a little exaggerated but in the real world would probably be the easiest to work with if you had to change a tire say. Before gluing down the tail lights you might want to see how they would look on the fenders also. Maybe something oblong like the '49-'50 Ford lamps from AMT, or even modify the stock '49 Merc lamps. They are curved to match the rear fenders, but if sanded down flat that may give you the look your after.

It seems that this year is the worst humidity in years. The KC metro is looking at 80% today and has been in the 70% plus for sometime now. When I work in the yard I'm afraid I might drown. Luckily I have a corner of the basement with a dehumidifier going full blast and I'm able to do just about all of my painting except Testers clear with very few problems.

Should be a pretty color combo. I also have struggled with paint issues for many years. Like so many others here I use a lot of plastic spoons before I ever go near the body . This gives you a chance of trying different primers as well as seeing just how the color will look over curved surfaces. I have no idea who first came up with the idea but I'm forever in there debt for the bodies it has saved me personally.

The main window glue I have had the best luck with is Testors Clear Parts Cement. I sometimes will use Crystal Clear Gallery Glass, got mine at JoAnns. On head lights and other very small lenses I have found good old Future works real well.

Been following your build and really like how it is turning out. Like you and others I have experienced the same "bubbling" with this clear coat. My last build had some on the top edge of the wheel openings and I spent a lot of time sanding and polishing to the point I was afraid I would go thru the paint and had to just leave it. I think it had as much to do with the high humidity as any thing.

Great looking rub strips and I like the door trim. It may be a little expensive but Bare Metal Foil used to offer a semi shinny back foil.