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Most of the tow bars in the older kits were kind of thick and didn't look very good or in scale. With some of the products we have to work with now it might be better to just scratch build your own.

Dave , I have heard a similar feelings expressed by others, and think from the response of others to this post you are getting a better idea of why someone might not look at your build or only visit and leave no remarks. I have a theory as to why this may be happening. I think that the reason that your post may have dropped down on to the second or third page with few visits has to do with the shire size of this Forum. This is a big weekend here, and there will be more traffic than normal. But as each person views a post and say they leave a remark, that post now goes up to the top of page one. This person goes on and visits several other posts and leaves their remarks and then that post will go to the top. The person will look at several more and leave a remark or not, but even if it's only a few more that has moved your post further down the line. Now say there are several others visiting and making remarks on some ones build . This will put you on page three very fast and no fault of your own. I'm not offering a better plan because I just don't have one. But this is why I will go at least as deep page three on my visits for this very reason. Please don't let this get you down.

The new tires look as if they would have to much sidewall flex and would allow the tread to lift away from the track in corners. It will be interesting to find out how they have redesigned the tires.

I'm hardly a Ford or Chrysler expert, but what I have used is Tamiya X-14 sky blue or TS-10 French Blue or TS-23 Lt. Blue. To my eye they look close enough. For someone who has to be dead on then the factory type spray cans might be the best.

Very realistic looking old work horse.

Very clean build. The color reminds me of one of the color that Chevrolet offered at that time.

Well built model, very clean.

Nice to see a Ford in a Ford. I agree the steel wheels look better. I might raise the rear about a scale inch or two, but that's just me.

I like your color combo with what looks like the Firebird interior pieces.

Great looking shoe box. What are thinking for the front turn lamps ?

Red exterior ?

As Andy H mentioned the front bumper looks to big. The bumper its self is not so bad as the splash pan between the grill and bumper is just to large. What I have done on '56 Chevy builds is to shorten the splash pan, this brings the bumper much closer to the grill. The bumper wraparounds will then be into the front wheel opening and will also need to be reshaped. This is how the big guys do it.

Isn't Photo Shop grand . You can make anything out of anything. I actually would be a player for the El Camino / UTE if ever GM "Marketing People" ever get their heads out of where ever it has been lately.

Another one to consider is Model Master Liquid Cement, in the black dispenser. There are many more options then in the past. Just wait until you get to the windows. The quest will begin anew.

I'll have to try the tape method. If you don't already you might think about out lining the trim with a #11 blade during your prep before priming your model. Faint moldings like window and side trim go away with very little paint. This will leave you an edge to work with when it comes time for foil.

A T type sleeper. The FBI used some of these as undercover cars in the day. I got to drive one to lunch one day after the used car manager had bought it at the GM auction. They had a chip that GM later sent a replacement for. You could get 3rd gear scratch before. With the OEM chip, second gear at best. It was white with a light tan interior. You would never notice it on the road, but that was the point.

Great colors. I'm not a fan of vinyl roofs as most were black and didn't really look better than the painted roofs. This accents and enhances the body color.

Very nice color combo. Look forward to how you do the interior.

Wow, I'll be getting a few of the '40 since this was my all time favorite.

Very cool Dad. I will wager that when she is much older with children of her own she will remember this day, and that is good.

I really "don't want to beat a dead horse" here on engine colors because as we have all seen it is very different in different markets. Just let me share a couple of personal observations from years ago. In '64 my employer purchased a new left over '63 model Chevrolet C-20 (3/4 ton) pick-up. It had a 283 in gray and a 3-speed manual transmission. In '65 one of my very close friends ordered a new '65 Chevrolet C-10 (1/2 ton ) with the 283 which came in gray also with a 3-speed manual. I have no idea how much this means to those who worry about such things, but this was two different trucks that I saw and help work on when they were new. This was in the southern California area (Crestline and Lake Arrowhead) and was probably how that plant was painting engines at that time. I still love how this model turned out. I personally prefer and paint all of my Chevrolet builds with what I feel is the orange/red color that I associate with a Chevrolet 8 cylinder engine. The 6 cylinder engines that I remember working on at the time were always blue (blue flame six) until the 230 & 250 inch engines which were then painted a red that matched the 8's.

The class in which the car would have raced was a formula based on factory rated horsepower and factory stated shipping weight, NHRA would often raise the horsepower rating on a particular engine if they felt the manufacturer was sand bagging on the rating. The Revell model represents the 150 series which was correct for the Black Widow although the Fuel Injection was an option that could be ordered on any '57 model Chevrolet save maybe the sedan delivery, but even that may be argued by some. Guessing only, it may have run in A or B stock at that time. If you can find an NHRA rule book from the mid to late '60's you could figure out what class it would have been in. They also would denote say B/SA for an automatic transmission car and B/S or B/SS for a manual transmission depending on the track. I would think that by the '60's such a car would have moved into say a C or D class by then based on the newer higher output engines of the day.

While everyone seems completely satisfied using solder, I have been using another method that has worked well for me. Plastruct has styrene tubing of different diameters. I usually use #90604 1/8" (3.2 mm) diameter hollow tubing. I insert 3/64 (1.2mm) brass rod so that it will bend without collapsing the tubing and it hold the shape. There are several different sizes depending on the exhaust size you're after. If you leave a little of the brass sticking out of the ends you can use that as mounting point for the headers, mufflers, and exhaust tips as needed.

Another one of your great builds. In the picture at least the engine color looks correct, more red than orange.

For the Merc hub caps look at the Revell '49 Mercury wagon or the old AMT Mercury as a source.