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That's just all wrong!

For the kit its self the only fit issues that I experienced was between the grill-hood and firewall. Other than that it's a nice simple build. For ideas on color and style you might check out Street Rodder magazine's web sight. There are many different style to build this model and the color helps to set the "look" that your after. Please post pictures of your progress. Have fun.

That's the way a "shoe box" is supposed to look. Love it.

About that Fiat! Which way is it going? Kind had to tell.

I'm old enough to remember these. We used to fill them with ice and a little water. My first home had a "Swamp Cooler", that's all I could afford. That should be real "cool" on this cruiser.

What is it ?

I have used Model Master #2909 Light Ivory to make a '65 Chevelle SS Showroom Stock. It's on the pale side and was a popular color on many cars of that era.

As Mark pointed out the seats are not correct for a '72. I bought a new '72 Nova SS and the high backs are what you got if you ordered buckets with the deluxe interior. The molding on the lower part of the body may of been part of an extra cost trim option, mine had the chrome trim around the windows that was extra at that time. All of these things are easy fixes depending on what you are trying to build. The only real; problem with this kit is the front wheel openings are set to far forward and the fenders are hard to line up. I think they were trying to make a "funny car" or something as an option. Some people feel that the rear of this model is more accurate than the current '69 Nova by Revell.

Lets see what your doing with the interior. I'm interested in a similar interior treatment for the '57 I'm building.

Good idea working the pickup rear fenders into the rear quarters.

The grill and rear roll pan look good. I really like the "Jimmy" huffer on the stovebolt.

I also recommend Tamiya products. I have used them for years as well as others, but Tamiya is my default paint. The only thing I have had issues with is on the brush bottles. I stir and then reseal and shake before use. What seems to happen is that the design of the top will get paint into the sealing surface between the lid and the bottle. If unused for an extended period of time they become almost impossible to reopen. What has worked best is to place the bottle upside down in very warm water for a time. Some of the water will get into the cap and soften the dried paint.

They are great. Got mine at Bed, Bath and Beyond. They have several sizes.

He might want his attorney to talk to her attorney. Unless these were given to her as part of the property settlement she might be in trouble. I've been down this road myself. A lot of my possessions went missing many years ago. Had no way to prove anything so I was just out of luck. This guy has some very good proof here. Sad life has to go this way sometimes. I hope no children are involved in this.

Years ago I worked for Union Oil in southern Cal. at the Colton Distribution Center in Colton Cal. One of my jobs was to work at the fueling station at Riverside Raceway. As I remember they never raced any series in the rain.

Saw a resin body of a '58 Edsel with an altered wheel base, now that would be defferant.

Like it a lot. Could be period or part of the current retro look. Well built.

Enjoyed your lead in to the purchase of the model from a real model shop. As many Mopar fans will tell you, the GTX was a luxo muscle car of the day. The first thing I noticed on your photo of the GTX with the hood stripes is that they are incorrect for the '69 model. The '68s had a blackout area that ran between the scopes across the hood and the scopes were flat and more off a horizontal opening. The '69s ran front to back and the scopes were more upright opening on the top. The Ram Air was optional and the grills on the scopes would be painted red. Another car to look at for inspiration might be the Road Runner. This was the more hard core performance version of the same basic body style. On the chassis being warped, you cold try heating it under hot water and try bending it back into shape. I've had the same problem before and never could get the car to set flat even after mounting everything else. Most of all due it your way and please post pictures as you go.

I saw a black coupe in traffic last week. I'm try to market a vital organ or two to see if I could afford one. The lottery thing hasn't worked out yet.

Very good info for all to many drivers. In the KC Metro area there is a hiway that goes around the area north to south and east to west. Three lanes in each direction. One of the reasons that it is so congested all the time is what you see in the clip. Another big problem is that the slowest traffic seems to be in the center lane. This makes it very hard to move over for faster traffic, and forces many to drive in the slow lane which is what Lee may be dealing with. I try to use the cruise control so that I don't speed. As you over take some one in the middle line and signal to move into the faster lane they all of a sudden wake up and take off so that you can't pass. If you pull back in behind them they slow down again. If you do get by them and pull back in they start dropping back to see who else they can mess with.

Photo etched brackets are the most correct for scale, but I have used very small strips of Plastruct and have been pleased.

On the color it all depends on what vibe you're going for. When new these were the family hauler and were usually middle of the road colors. Most often a light beige or blue. They could be ordered in just about any color Chevrolet offered, even Iris Mist. I remember seeing reds and maroon, and Chevrolet even had a metallic teal that was very popular. One of my favorites was a medium blue metallic. Lighter colors will not tend to show any imperfections in the body where darker colors tend to show every sin. A trend for a short time in the mid '60s was to have the roof painted a metal flake or high metallic in a contrasting shade.

Do you have a Michele's or Jo-Anns near you ? I have used items from their jewelry department. They carry many gauges of wire. They also have something that looks like a straight pin with a loop on the end. You can cut off most of the straight part. Use that to glue to a small hole drilled to the inner fender and run the heater hose thru the loop. The loop can be easily bent or reshaped as need be. Hope this is of some help.

I am also have this kit on my work bench. I have also changed the front, and rear inner fenders for more tire room. Could you share more pictures with how you did the front on yours ?

Wouldn't miss it. I'll have two table again this year. Lots of old kits and several NASCAR kits. I know I know, but I sold over twenty NASCAR kits last year and lots of Corvettes. Hope to have a half dozen models on display.