Bugatti Fan

Bob, since you replied I have seen a Mustang Fastback for sale locally here in the UK. When I looked at it I was very surprised to find it was made with right hand drive. Have found out since that it was not a conversion and that Ford US have been making this car with both LHD and RHD options for target markets. It is the first time to my knowledge that the Mustang has been marketed in this way and all previous models were LHD only. On the latest Mustang I do like the retro styling with hints of the original 1960's car. The two previous Ford Sports Coupes sold in the UK with RHD were the Cougar and the Probe. The Cougar was quite a nice looking car, but I did not like the styling of the Probe. I have a feeling that Monogram did a Probe kit some time ago.

Tungsten Carbide used for circuit board drilling is very hard and brittle and as mentioned in an earlier post do not stand up to any side deflection. Carbon steel drills are a bit more durable. With very small drills it is imperative to make a small indent mark as a start, especially on a curved surface to stop drill wandering or deflection. A sewing needle in a pin vice can be used as a fine centre market for this purpose. Mounting a drill as far back as possible in a pin vice or chuck will lessen the chance of deflection, the main cause of drill breakages.

Things do slip through the net from time to time. Like the moderators said, message them directly with a reference to the thread involved. We are all passionate about our hobby, but remember that is what it is, a hobby. I can understand it being a bit frustrating having a thread in the wrong category. But bear in mind that the moderators are only human, have more important things to attend to like family and earning a living, and sacrifice some of their modelling time to oversee and help out forum users. So chill out, let them know, be patient and the problems generally will get sorted eventually. Now where did I leave that can of Bud?

Will you be getting the Lego Bugatti Chiron?

There have been some innovative ideas about vinyl roofs in this thread, all of which appear to work ok. Mike Saucier's method in his post I think copies full size practice of overlapping. But as long as any method looks OK on a model when finished and best suits the modeller that is just fine.

Cutting louvers freehand and ensuring that they are both spaced and aligned properly will be extremely difficult. To do this properly will require a shaped punch tool to be mounted into a drill press and be able to lock the spindle. Then a bottom tool with an adjustable guide rail to align the part for louver forming. The bottom tool will need to be designed in such a way that the louvers can self space when each punched louver is drawn back against it. All a bit complicated, but accurate louver punching needs the sort of accuracy that only a shaped punch and jig will allow. Unfortunately this is going into the realms of miniature engineering. Basically, Daniel has got the right idea with regard to the principle of actually punching louvers. The problems arise with needing consistent spacing, consistent depth and accurate alignment.

What are the plans for the magazine when it makes it to print again, besides subscriptions, will it be available again as an over the counter magazine in the retail sector? Also, will it be become available 'over the counter' like Scale Auto was and Fine Scale Modeler is in the UK?

I think that the late Gerald Wingrove seeing this would have been impressed.

Pleased to hear that you are staying with us Carl.

I was not aware that there was a racing body available for a Cosworth Saloon. Is it a resin body from some after market supplier or a polystyrene slot racing body? Personally, I think the Sierra XR4i and the Cosworth are both nice looking cars.

Your XR4 looks good. I wish that Tamiya had kitted a Sierra Cosworth Saloon as well.

Nice to see some vintage classic car builds. Should be very impressive when finished!

It is such a blow when one has to give up something that they have loved doing for so long. I wish you well, like many others on this site Carl. Your comments and encouragement will still be very much valued, so please keep active on here.

The photo of the PE sheet may be deceptive and appear to just be gently curved. But if it has any kinks or indents in it then it would be rendered useless.

Bruce, your GT 500 certainly does count as scratch building. Often it is much harder work to do a major conversion and takes a lot of confidence to carve into an expensive kit. Your Mustang looks great as a convertible.

Evening Star brings back some memories for me. Way back in the early Sixties when I was an apprentice the Tech College I attended weekly organised a trip to the British Railways Works in Swindon now long gone. It coincided with Evening Star being rolled out just completed. To see the last British Steam locomotive brand new was to leave a lasting impression. There was a competition amongst BR staff that resulted in the name Evening Star being chosen. I did not see the engine again for another 50 years or so until when I visited the National Railway Museum in York. I think that there is a photo etched set of nameplates available via model railway specialist suppliers for OO gauge models such as the Dapol one.

Bruce, I liked your build with the 32 body. Really nice body off chassis and engine detail too. Bob, your engine test rig was both an unusual and very nice model.

Thanks Tim

Back in the seventies there was Sinclair's Auto Miniatures Quarterly in support of the business. Maybe some of us old timers may remember them and the quarterly publication?

There were some really funny car names like the Cedric and the Laurel for example. Not exactly dynamic names to tempt buyers! But anyway the model featured in this thread is coming on well and a little bit out of the ordinary from the many Ferrari and Porsche models we see regularly. An interesting build none the less. Not many kits of more mundane cars, so this stands out as being a bit different.

Maybe Dave Ambrose may be the best person to ask if anything can be done about this problem? Suggest you message him direct about this.

Thanks for that snippet of information Geoff. I am sure that a number of our American friends will appreciate that bit of information. Cheers!

Eddie, I think you are being a bit hard on yourself. That metallic green finish looks perfect to me!

Zero paints have been mentioned, and the postal difficulties getting them from Spain. Hiroboy have an outlet in the UK, so Zero paint is not a problem to obtain over here. They are excellent paints to use. What surprises me is that it would appear judging by comments in this post that there is no importer in the States?

Hi Eddie. Plastic, die cast or resin? It matters not what your preferred modelling medium is. Main thing is enjoy coming back to the hobby. I must say that your die cast detailing is excellent, so why not take advantage of having a pre painted body and retail up the rest? Regarding spraying perhaps appearing to be a bit difficult, it will come with a bit of practice. Try out by using some automotive paint aerosols on some odd bits and pieces. The basic is be patient and build up coats gradually, and making sure that you start off each pass clear of the job and finish each pass likewise. You will get to know by practice, what best distance to hold the aerosol from the job being painted. Generally there is a recommended distance on the can that can be used as a starting point for experimenting. Good luck and welcome to the forum.