Bugatti Fan

Re my last entry clock should read Flock!

Pre painted did cast models generally have their paint baked dry in processing ovens. Any stove enamelled finish as a result is very hard. Unless stripping back the whole body to bare metal the easiest way to do a two tone using the base colour of the model is mask off all the body where the original colour next to stay put. Use some Wet n Dry abrasive paper to key the areas you want to paint in the contrasting colour. Clean off all the residue from the rubbing them prime and paint the other colour. After it dries carefully remove the masking tape from the original colour to expose your new two tone paint job. When masking though make sure that you use a good masking tape designed to avoid bleed undefneath

The embossing powder seems to be similar to flocking in its application. Another product that can be used as scale carpeting is the self adhesive vinyl sheet made for covering card tables. The range of colours is limited though, generally green, red or beige. I guess that it could be sprayed another colour before application. It is ok for flat areas like a floor, but no good for compound curves. The embossing and clock would be better for that.

A very stylish show car that you are making your own mark on the Invader. An interesing, intriguing build. This build reminded me that I think that I have the remnants of an old incomplete Eldon 'Out House' kicking around in the spares box.

No the originals are not dead....................Just cryogenically preserved...............In Plastic! Diorama possibilities where figures from both sets can be used.

Those old Studes were nice looking cars. Quite European in styling back in those days compared with the normal Fins and Chrome era cars.

That there are more than twice as many responses in this thread compared to the ' What pleased you today' hread'!

I use a little Panasonic Lumia LX3 Compact, bought when it first came out. They are available quite inexpensively now second hand. It is a nice little high quality camera with a fast Leica lens. In fact Leica marketed their own brand camera that was virtually identical to mine at a much higher price at the time. Besides tripod use at home, it is a great camera and the fasr lens comes into its own at shows in average light to avoid camera shake when used without the flash. It can be set for the lighting source in the building,

There is also a UK product Clear Fix by Humbrol.. They also have a product named Clear Coat. A website worth looking at is De Luxe Materials. It is a UK company that develops, makes and markets an extensive range of adhesives, fillers and finishing materials aimed at the modelling market. Their Scenic Rust is really good.

Red really suits the E type body style roadster and coupe.

A few years ago I agreed a purchase from a private seller and duly sent a payment immediately after. I was told that he had sold the kit on to someone else despite our agreement, and had the cheek to send me another kit without phoning me first so that I could just ask for my money back It was badly packaged and arrived damaged. This was duly sent back to get my money refunded but lost out because of the cost of posting back the unauthorised kit he sent me as a substitute. The guy refused to reimburse my postage costs to return the damaged kit. I will never deal with that guy again. It all came about because he responded to a want advert of mine on another forum at the time.

Gary, I built the Monogram one many years ago. Not really thought about trying to obtain the resin kit. My problem right now is too many other projects that I either have in mind or on the go.

I think that I read somewhere that there is a guy in Australia making resin kits of the Uncertain T. Probably will be a lot less expensive than original Monogram kits from the 60's. I don't think that this kit was ever reissued by Monogram.

A pic of mine built way back in the 70's. Not a very sharp image unfortunately, but you can get the gist. All hand painted except for the roof that was sprayed in semi matt black. The kit did not come with the red translucent rear lamp lenses that were cribbed from the spares box at the time. Apart from a bit of wiring on the engine the kit is pretty much a straight from the box build. Jim's feature BHE of this thread is fantastic. Particularly the imaginative roof and other panel graphics. Looking forward to seeing the rest of the build and the completed model.

Airfix have announced a click together Chiron kit in 1/24 scale! It will be interesting to see how good it is. It it is anything like their Veyron the overall shape will look good........albeit with simplifications aimed at children like stickers instead of headlamp unit transparencies for example. The Alpha resins are very nice kerbside models in their own right, but pricey none the less.

Not impressed! A wasted opportunity to use the Lego build method to make a realistic looking model in this huge scale! It looks very techno, a bit like a Transformer half way through a change!. Actually, Airfix managed to do a realistic (albeit very simplified) Veyron in 1/24 scale and have just announced a Chiron in a similar Lego build fashion in their junior click together range.

Matt, I reckon your XJS would do very well on the competition table at Telford. Great model!

Looking good Kurt. Resin is not like putting a plastic kit together. Are you using epoxy or superglue or both on your build?

Looks like a lovely kit of this subject, especially as in 1/24 scale. Really looking forward to seeing the progress on this build. I think I that Matchbox did a plastic one in 1/32 scale way back in the eighties.

Stunning.model Matt. Does not seem all that long ago when there were quite a number of these on our roads. It was I think a really nice looking car. Not to everyone's taste though, and appeared to be a successor to the last E Type with the V12 and carrying on the coupe role for Jaguar.

The scriber end follow on with a blade that Marcos described for panel lines is by far the best method. I have been doing panel lines in a similar fashion for some time now. The only thing that I do a little differently to Marcos is that after deep scoring the lines I spray the bodywork and paint in the panel lines after the finish coats. As the panel lines are already deep scored, I use a thing named a mapping pen that is basically small old fashioned dip pen with a nib. Make up a wash using artists acrylic to a darker colour than the car body to a watery consistency. Dip the mapping pen and run it along the panel of food line. The pen job being so thin allows very good control compared to a brush, and as the wash is thinly mixed, capillary action helps it run along the lines.

Mike, the tube you are using looks the best way to go if you have the right diameter. What I was suggesting was an alternative of needs be. I had to resort to it when I was restoring an old Merit kit of a Le Mans Aston from the 50's era for an Aston collector a number of years ago. If you have ever thought about replacing the kit wire wheels with photo etched ones there is a UK company named South Eastern Finecast who has a lovely set in their range, fully made up with tyres fitted and knock on caps. I used a set of these some time ago on a model and they certainly improved the appearance.

This looks a good build. There was (is?) a company in Italy named Robustelli that did nice sets of photo e.etched logos and windscreen wipers for the Testarossa in 1/24 scale.

Mike, The plastic tubing will probably be a good way around the headlamps problem albeit with a bit of trial and error cutting and shaping to fit. Another way around this if you cannot get the exact tubing diameter you want is roll paper thin plastic card sheet into a tube shape and do trial fits into the headlamp apertures on the bonnet (hood). If you roll the tube a bit smaller than the aperture then slide it into position, then let the tube unravel a bit until it fits perfectly within, but sticks out at the front. You can try this out with some copier paper before committing to plastic card to get a feel for how it is done. Ensure though that the positioning and depth within the aperture is correct to take the lamp itself and circular concentricity is maintained. Liquid cement can be used to both set the tube itself and to within the aperture. Once set hard, the excess sticking out of the front can be cut away with a razor saw and cleaned up very carefully with small files and some wet and dry abrasive sheet. Where this work is done will probably then be hidden by the kit chrome surround and clear cover. You have not mentioned if Heller have omitted the headlamps themselves or not, but I guess that they are in the kit. NB Thanks , I see that you are considering my apology. Kind regards Noel