Ace-Garageguy

Yeah, but remember...most of the parts had been pulled out of race-cars. They've been depreciated to the max and are essentially scrap metal for business purposes. Why not give 'em to somebody who can do something with them, instead of getting pennies from the recycler who'll only ship 'em to China anyway?

Thanks. For some odd reason, I got on this thing for getting a bunch of late '50s and early '60s American iron.

That auction site everybody seems to hate.

Probably a ratty, worn-out grandma car with no hubcaps, a little fatter tires (for sand), and a surfboard rack and boards. Sorta what would have been an un-cool alternative to a woody.

That would depend entirely on the design of the particular radiator. There is no universal design, and configurations to fit an available space can vary widely due to time-period (example: downflow or crossflow), application (a racing radiator will usually have a much thicker core than a street radiator, etc.), etc. Do an image search for "car radiators" and you'll see what I mean.

Love those old what-if spacecraft models. Looks good.

Is that a real million dollar bill?

'Bout a grand's worth of AN fittings, hose, annealed stainless hard line, and hardware...mostly to finish up the '66 Chevelle fuel system, some for stock. This Bat Flu mess is playing hello with getting a lot of stuff the US just doesn't make anymore. I've been online for almost a full work week sourcing things that are backordered here, out-of-stock there, we-don't-know-if-we'll-ever-be-able-to-get-any -more someplace else.

Saw one of these being built on the board recently, remembered I'd meant to get one. It came in today.

Nice score, especially the Buick.

Tell him there's soon gonna be an app for it. That should make him happy.

Nice car. Mostly function, exceptionally clean, great fab work. HP seems about right to me too...way too much is just enough.

Yessir. One of my first forays into racing had to do with a Chevron B-16 running a BMW 4-cylinder. To the best of my knowledge, nobody's put Webers on a 2-liter Neon yet. They will face forward and require a significant hood blister, plus a cold air box, but that's not too hard. A tricky bit is getting a distributor on it, as the coil packs are fired by the engine management computer as-is...but there's a mounting point where the cam position sensor lives on the LH end of the head, and I can machine a drive dog to run off the end of the cam. Something like an AccuSpark or Pertronix conversion in an old Bosch 019 distributor ought to do the job, maybe firing an MSD box...or not. Just about any junkyard magnetic-trigger distributor could work.

Yup.

Good idea. I have backups for my backups. I have a propane conversion standing by for the gasoline-powered generator, in case there's no power to run the gas pumps at the station, and cans of propane strategically stockpiled. The backup for those backups is a lawnmower engine coupled to a car alternator, with an inverter to power a limited number of necessities. I also have stand-alone propane heaters and adapters for all of the propane canisters. Natural gas heat is great, but it won't work in a power outage if the thermostat and blower systems are electric. And solar electric systems don't have to be prohibitively expensive if you understand the technology, understand working with electricity safely, and don't buy into the sales hype screaming everything needs to be the latest-greatest-microprocessor-controlled-phone-app-accessible-insanely-overcomplicated (and usually Chinee) baloney. There were perfectly adequate photovoltaic systems available 5 decades ago, simple and reliable, using lead-acid batteries. The efficiency of the cells has increased dramatically over time, but the rest of the older systems can be entirely functional today.

MasterClub makes a nice selection. You can buy them on eBay. There is an Eastern European source but I don't have the web address handy. Tichy Train Group makes a limited range of sizes too. Also available on eBay, or direct https://www.tichytraingroup.com/Shop/tabid/91/c/ho_nbw--rivets/Default.aspx Far as knowing what size to order...just measure the size of the real bolt head you want to model and divide by 25.

Yup. They are remarkably competent little cars. https://www.roadandtrack.com/motorsports/a28067326/new-face-of-vintage-racing-dodge-neon-acr/ Kinda sad...to a lot of dwerps out there, they're thought of as being as disposable as beer cans. But they have a strong following among guys who understand what they can do...particularly the SRT-4. Glad your mechs got your brakes sorted too.

Thanks. Fixed the hose at first light, drove to work, home, then around for a couple hours this evening. He's a car again.

That's undoubtedly because the brake pads aren't retracting from contact with the rotor, obviously. This is often caused by the inner lining of the brake hose having collapsed, allowing pressurized fluid to apply the brakes, but being so resistant to flow as to inhibit fluid moving in the other direction when the brakes are released. When this occurs shortly after brakes having been "worked on", it's almost invariably because the chimp doing the work failed to adequately support the caliper, let it dangle from the hose, and caused a sharp bend resulting in internal failure. I've seen it dozens of times. Squealing immediately after brake "work" is almost always due to improper assembly of one kind or another.

Nice example, good info. Thanks. Like you, I'm wary of mixing materials from different manufacturers. I've seen countless cowboys in real-car paint shops having all kinds of issues...and mindlessly wondering why...simply because they assumed everything would work with everything else. Wrong.

Good info. And one BIG takeaway is the fact that both products can be anywhere from 25% to 50% acetone. Acetone is a hot solvent, and can be used on its own as plastic cement...because it melts styrene. No surprise it causes crazing on some model parts if a heavy coat is applied. The second product can also be between 10% to 24% methyl ethyl ketone...STRAIGHT PLASTIC CEMENT. EDIT: Note that the allowable variations in percentage of solvents can easily account for variations in coverage as well as crazing from batch to batch. Obviously, a can that's 50% acetone is going to cover worse and craze more than a can that's only 25% acetone.

Several studies seem to indicate there's a substance in pineapple that can can be of help. This is only two of the articles about the findings... https://www.benjamineye.com/blog/eye-floaters/ https://www.gtgoodtimes.com/2019/05/31/eating-pineapple-daily-can-reduce-eye-floaters-study-shows/

First thing that comes to mind is a Minilite. Right number of spokes of similar design, and one of the Japanese wheel set manufacturer makes a 14" version if I remember correctly (not called Minilite though). Cut the wheel in half just behind the spokes, glue on a flat disc of styrene, and file the holes between the spokes. Then glue the rear half of the wheel back on. Maybe. Like I said, just a first thought... EDIT: Fujimi Panasport 14" https://www.bnamodelworld.com/model-cars-motorcycles-wheels-tyres-fujimi-models-fj-19358?zenid=aa06f95c4bf33755108b21772496fa8b EDIT 2: Aoshima 8-spoke Watanabe 17" might work as a start too... https://www.bnamodelworld.com/model-cars-motorcycles-parts-decals-aoshima-models-aos05243?zenid=aa06f95c4bf33755108b21772496fa8b

Look into pineapple...

It'll be a while. Job One is getting back to close to 100% reliability. On my test drive just now, the brake booster vacuum hose split, probably from having sat for so long dry rotting, and my pushing it out of the way when I took the airbox and throttle body out to get radiator access. I was able to nurse him back home, but those little buggers really won't stop with no vacuum boost and a massive air leak making the engine rev erratically.