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Everything posted by Ace-Garageguy
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Agreed 100%. A knockout build.
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Sounds like he may be a malfunctioning robot.
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Model A Headlight Mounts
Ace-Garageguy replied to gwolf's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Since those are either boxed sheetmetal fabrications or solid castings, you could carve them from .080" styrene sheet fairly easily. That would make them a scale 2" thick, which is about what they appear to be at the right-angle bend...though they appear to be thicker at the bottom. -
Halibrand Wheel Project
Ace-Garageguy replied to afx's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I figured out what the wheels on Nancy's car are some time back; they're old Sprint smoothies mounted backwards... -
Beautiful finished models, Gary, and fine looking work on those RenShape masters too, Bill.
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3D print '30 Ford coupe under development!
Ace-Garageguy replied to Spex84's topic in Car Aftermarket / Resin / 3D Printed
Man oh man oh man. NICE work. I'll be buying, for sure. -
It's a 3-wheeled urban vehicle I designed back in '84, finally raised funding to start building full-scale in '96, and ran out of funding before completion. Still have it, and it's slated as my number-one project after my "official" retirement coming up. https://contest.techbriefs.com/2010/entries/transportation/871
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Not the best (it was an unreliable, plug-fouling, oil leaking, metal-fatigued, falling-apart POS when I got it) but by far the most fun was my Lotus Super 7 S2/3. People called them "the world's best 4-wheeled motorcycle", and that about sums it up. Second for sheer fun is the Beck 550 Spyder replica I still have. Goes like stink (feels twice as fast as it really is), handles like a slot-car. No top, no heater, no windows. Third for fun was my old '72 GMC Step Van that I set up as a mobile shop when I had a fleet-services business. Glacially slow but fun to drive with a manual three-on-the-tree (ex-Krispy Kreme delivery truck), an OK race-car hauler, and great as a race-spectator vehicle too. Camp in the back, watch the races from the roof. My current favorite is my '89 GMC pickup, saved from the crusher, bought for $100 from the idiot who killed it. Did a Q&D engine job and some cringe-making "repairs" (I know better, but she's MY truck ), and she's a loyal old girl, always gets me there.
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Good tip, and thanks. I've built more than a few things from foam, some pretty big, and I generally use epoxy to provide a hard-shell surface. That can get pretty expensive...
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Slant 6 cross ram
Ace-Garageguy replied to oldnslow's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Actually, low-end torque is where that engine shines...and the long intake runners help it. 370 HP is the highest reliably quoted dyno figure one of these has ever put out, but that's a short-lived drag race motor (Cameron Tilley). Getting 225 on the street isn't really too difficult normally aspirated, 250 with around 250+ lb.ft. of torque is well documented. 300 should be doable...but expensive. -
Resin mold release agent removal help
Ace-Garageguy replied to Khils's topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
Nothing wrong with trying to be helpful. But it just so happens I HAVE used Comet successfully for years...so why shouldn't I mention it? Not trying to hurt anyone's feelings or be a know-it-all (of which I'm constantly accused); I just have this (rude, arrogant, big-head) thing about sharing the actual truth that I know from first-hand experience. The "scratching" associated with Comet creates the dulling effect on countertops, enameled surfaces, etc. It also dulls shiny molded tires nicely. The "scratches" are finer than 600 grit sandpaper. But hey...if all y'all would just prefer I keep things I actually KNOW to myself, rather than disagreeing with "opinions", I'll be happy to never post real info again. Ever. MORE than happy. -
What is a 'promo' model?
Ace-Garageguy replied to shaunmza's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Hence the name..."promo", short for promotional. -
I like pie.
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Resin Molds and Casting
Ace-Garageguy replied to porschercr's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
https://www.freemansupply.com/library/video https://www.smooth-on.com/tutorials/ -
Resin mold release agent removal help
Ace-Garageguy replied to Khils's topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
I've been using Comet to surface-scuff styrene parts for years, and there's no issue with "scratching". Comet and a vigorous scrub with hot water and a toothbrush uniformly scuffs a styrene part for great paint adhesion. It gets in ALL the nooks and corners that sandpaper and Scotch-Brite pads miss, but it doesn't obliterate details like sanding can. If it doesn't trash soft styrene bodies, it's not going to hurt resin. But don't take my word for it. -
Plastic Spoons for testing paint?
Ace-Garageguy replied to crowe-t's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Yes, that is a very strong indication it IS styrene. Not necessarily the SAME styrene as models, as the formulations are endless. -
And of course, a large part of the problem is that a lot of people are mindless, following sheep. If someone who's not a critical thinker, or just not interested in word usage and fluency, hears the phrase "I gifted him a model kit" enough times, rather than "I GAVE him a model kit", he's going to mindlessly repeat it...because that's the way "everybody else" talks...rather than thinking "hey, that sounds really stupid". I mean hell, if you can't be bothered to differentiate between to, too and two... So language changes, and usually in a way that reflects the dumbing-down of a society.
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That's very interesting. You communicate in written English far better than the majority of native English speakers. I wonder what the difference is in the way your brain is wired that makes you WANT to use the language well and fluently, and all the people born here who just don't give a damm, and think that communicating clearly is an unnecessary skill.
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49 50 stud pickup
Ace-Garageguy replied to damodelguy az's topic in Model Trucks: Pickups, Vans, SUVs, Light Commercial
Pretty cool model. Interesting...but you might consider that it most likely wouldn't work in reality. The Mopar "frame" is an integral part of a unibody car. It has zero strength once the firewall, roof, and quarter panels are cut off. Though it IS possible to accomplish something like that, it takes engineering and fabrication that 99.99% of hot-rod or body shops just can NOT do. -
I made a profit...unusual for me, as I'm the king of "buy high, sell low" most of the time. I bought one of these several months back for right around $100. One just sold on eBay for $565. PS. I won't be selling mine. I bought it to build.
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X2. I've been measuring and hacking a Stingray body to get there...very interested in yours.
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You can stroke just about any engine the old-school way, by welding up the rod journals and re-grinding them with their centers farther from the crank centerline. OR...you can machine a custom "stroker" crank from billet. That's the way it was done before everything was ordered from catalogs. NOTE: The 354 displacement of this kit was never offered from the factory. It's been running with the wrong displacement on the package since the '60s. It's actually a bored 331.