Ace-Garageguy

Bingo. Watch how spray moves when the filter is new. When it slows down appreciably, change it.

Seems like I read somewhere that Triumph liked the Italia so well they went to the designer who did the Italia to draw the production TR4 styling as well.

Beautiful, beautiful country, Dan. Man...I bet the air up there smells wonderful too.

Far as I can tell, most civilians of any age don't get it. Military involvement changes your world-view and helps to give you a much more realistic big-picture outlook (assuming you're paying attention and thinking about what you see and experience). And last time I traveled by air (about 60 days back) I noticed the uniformed military personnel were across-the-board polite, courteous and acted like the kind of adults who would make the world a generally much more pleasant place to inhabit. Not so for the majority of civilians, unfortunately. There are a fair few military personnel in my area, and a fair few of them are pilots, aircrew or ground crew. Without exception, they're always among the most pleasant and realistic people to deal with.

OK, here's the real deal as far as building a decent stock '32 Ford from what's readily available. Let me preface my remarks by letting you know (with a 23-post count, you probably don't know) that for many years I built old-Ford-based hot-rods in full scale, still do occasionally, and I still build a lot of period rod models. These things are near and dear to my heart, and I've spent considerable time researching what's right with the kits and what's BS. The two biggest problems with the old AMT kits are 1) the front of the bodies are too short in height. Revell body on the left, AMT body on the right (this is the Victoria, but they're all the same). To make a correct-height body, you need to add material as shown, and re-scribe the doors. After you do this mod, the AMT bodies will fit quite well on the Revell fenders and frames, as the AMT bodies are reasonably well-scaled otherwise. 2) The AMT body uses a one-piece fender unit that lacks the very significant identifier for '32 Fords...the "reveal" or styling-line stamped into the sides of the frame on the real cars. This was done by Ford because the frame actually shows on the real car, and is part of the finished "body". The Revell kits have a frame with a molded in reveal that shows, just like the real car, when the fenders are assembled. There are other problems with both kits. 3) The Revell kit has a "street-rod" suspension under it that needs toe be replaced entirely to make a stocker. The rear crossmember also needs to be replaced. This is not difficult for a reasonably competent modeler, but it requires some fabrication or possibly scratchbuilding. 4) Of the AMT '32 Ford kits, only the Phaeton and the Victoria have separate rear suspension. The roadster and 5-window coupe have blobular chassis with the rear suspension molded in. The suspension from the 2 better AMT kits CAN be swapped into the Revell kits, but it's not an ideal fix. 5) The wheels on the AMT kits are represented as 15" wires. Wrong. Stock wire wheels on a '32 Ford are 18"...plenty enough discrepancy to make a visible difference. 6) The Revell 1/25 roadster kit is a "highboy" and doesn't come with fenders. The Revell roadster body WILL fit the fenders and frames from all the other Revell 1/25 '32 kits, however. So, if you want to build a Revell '32 roadster in 1/25 scale with fenders, you'll need two kits...a highboy and any of the other fendered cars. There are a lot more things that need to be addressed...these are just the biggest ones. If you really want to pursue building a reasonably accurate stock '32 from bits and pieces, it gets kinda complicated.

Here's a couple of pix of the real deal for reference too...

Your new upper lip looks a lot more Plymouth-like. Nice work.

What everybody else said, again. Fine little rod, great color, plenty of unique touches.

Duplicolor red 'sandable' primer is a nice rusty red. Maybe a little too intense for what you want, but some yellow misted over it could give a little sandy texture.

^^

Exactly. I thought it was an Italian-bodied TR4, but couldn't find it that way. Resorted to image-lookup and found it was on a TR3 chassis. Never woulda thunk...

Don't forget the famous Planktera...

Not to worry...soon as the rain hits that particle board and it disintegrates, he'll get another chance. I think he needs to complete the look...

I would certainly buy more reissues of some of the kits that had particularly well-proportioned bodies if they had upgraded chassis. One that comes immediately to mind in the AMT '57 Ford kit. The body proportions look good to me, but I'd really like to have a chassis without the exhausts molded in. Save me from having to do a lot of work, or swapping a Revell chassis under it. I'm sure the same could be said for many of the older kits. While we're at it, sure would be nice if Revell could correct the drooping rear roofline on the opening-door '57 Nomad. Otherwise, it's really a pretty decent kit. Yeah, like that'll ever happen.

Indeed. Very gratifying to see someone who has a lot to offer performing military service. She's building herself a secure civilian future too, should she decide to opt for that. Yup. Things take time, but the wheels are in motion. Slowly, but in motion.

Now I'm pleased too...1800 miles away. You have some of the best reasons to get up early of anybody I know.

The OP is in Slovakia. Do they have Home Depot in Slovakia? Anyway...ALWAYS WEAR A RESPIRATOR if you're painting or cleaning the airbrush. Like THIS. NOT like this... AND VENT YOUR PAINT AREA TO THE OUTDOORS. It's a good idea to wear rubber gloves too. If you use epoxy or isocyanate products, you can develop a "sensitivity" to them, and chemicals in paint and thinners are easily absorbed through your skin.. If you were shaking, you inhaled WAY too much of the fumes. Different people have different degrees of tolerance to poisons, but do NOT TAKE ANY MORE CHANCES. ALWAYS WEAR A RESPIRATOR.

Everybody is sorta right. But not exactly. All the Poncho V8 engines in 1/25 scale can pretty well pass for each other because the real ones look so much alike. There are exceptions though. The BIG one is shown below. EARLY engines ('55-'59) had coolant passages coming out the front ends of the cylinder heads because they were "reverse cooled". Like zo. From 1960 on, the Pontiacs had a normal cooling system, and big 'ol freeze plugs in the heads where the coolant lines used to come out. The 301 engine built from '77-'81 (and the '80-'82 265) has a shorter deck and is slightly smaller physically, though really probably not noticeable in 1/25 scale. Blocks had two freeze plugs per side through '66, later 3 per side. Engine mount bosses appeared on the sides of the block in '59. The engines in the Challenger kit do not have well-defined mount bosses on the sides of the block (the real Challenger was built in '59 using ex-Pontiac factory test engines), so if you want to represent later engines, you'll need to add the mount bosses. It's easy to modify the blocks to look about right. From '64 on, blocks had provision for starter mounts on the LH side of the block. Prior to that the starters all bolted to the bellhousing. FYI. The engines in the Challenger kit are very similar to the engines in the old Revell parts-pack engine kits. Parts interchange, as it's much the same tooling.

Very nicely done. I like your colors too.

This is one place where "what you guys think" isn't going to cut it. Copyright law and brand licensing are very specific, and you need to KNOW the law, not somebody's opinion. I've actually done patent and copyright work in the real world, and I won't tell you what to do, because without thoroughly researching your exact position, anything I could tell you would be nothing but BS. And that's just the point...YOU need to contact GM or Chevrolet's product licensing office to see EXACTLY what you need to do to avoid running afoul of the lawyers. If you're intending to use the name of the TV show as part of your product tie-in, you'll have to get permission there too. Go to the source. Don't ask for opinions from people who have probably never done it. Here's a general overview of the whole licensing game. (PS. You can also just choose to avoid the issue entirely. Chances are if you're only selling a few units a year, you'll slip under everybody's radar anyway.) https://www.entrepreneur.com/article/174014 This article addresses licensing things that look like copyrighted or "trade dress" car body designs. http://r3pp.com/license.html

Excellent stuff and my personal favorite for 1:1 work. However, it comes in a big tube, and if you're not using it on real-world cars to get it used up, my experience is that it will gradually dry out and thicken to the point of being a real PITA to use. I just don't use the stuff quick enough on only models to use it before it starts drying out. That's the only reason I've switched to using the small modeler-size tubes of Bondo Professional 2-part polyester glazing putty for models.

I pretty much agree. I do a lot of heavy bodywork and mods, and those two will do you fine. The "professional" stuff from Bondo is a two-part catalyzed polyester just like the Evercoat, but it's less viscous (runnier). I use the old style one-part lacquer putty only for very small fills like minor scratches or pinholes. This is the small package. There's no need to "seal" the two-part. Primer will do the job. just like it does on 1:1 cars. One-part Squadron green for a very small imperfection... First coat of paint... HOWEVER, when I need a filler that adheres exceptionally well and has structural strength, I use epoxy thickened with cotton-flock, cabosil or mocroballoon. This is cotton-flock thickened epoxy. It's harder to sand than a polyester product, but it will hold a bunch of poorly-fitting parts together very well. A Bondo-like polyester product, or a one-part lacquer putty, simply will not have enough strength or adhesion. This is epoxy thickened with microballoon. The final shaping, where adhesion to bare plastic was no longer an issue, was done with two-part polyester like Evercoat or Bondo Professional... The Loctite Superglue Gel that Snake recommends works exceptionally well for filling edges of opening panels that need a tough and resilient fill that neither one-part lacquer putties OR Bondo-like two-part putties will give you. Neither of those products adhere well enough to edges, and they'll crack off or chip. The Loctite gel is there to stay, and can be filed and sanded for a perfect fit between parts.

Thanks for bumping this one up at this particular time, Scott. I bought the tanker kit a while back to be an airport fuel truck, to go along with the GeeBee racing plane. Hard to believe this truck was built through 1936 (so I understand).

Love the proportions and stance. Everything works together perfectly. Smokin' hot concept.