Monty

No idea. I was just looking for pics to help John.

I'm told they're some of the best resin casters out there, but their site is pure excrement. A number of the clickable links (Parts etc) don't work, but there's a helpful little scrawl message that tells you the site was last updated in 2012. Updated from what? Telepathy? I don't have anything against these guys personally, but this is the internet age. Seeing & buying products from a seller's site is how it works. I want them to succeed, but they have to do their part too.

Bill, you've done some very nice work here, and the last minute details you're planning will certainly enhance the work you've already done, but I have one suggestion that should make a big difference in the accuracy of your model's appearance: You need to cut the white stripes where they cross the trunk seams. Given that the decals are already in place, I'd advise asking the board for the best way to do this. It'll probably involve the use of Micro-Sol/Micro-Set to get the stripes down into the seams before making your cuts. I can't wait to see this when you're finished!

There was a time when the majority of Fords had red oxide primered undercarriages, but the pictures I've provided here purport to show the results of a concours-level restoration of a '71 Mach 1 with the undercarriage done in black. I'll let the Ford experts chime in on that. In the meantime, here are 72 pictures showing most of the pertinent aspects of the car. http://www.rkmotorscharlotte.com/sales/inventory/sold#!/1971-Ford-Mustang-Mach-1/133060/179198 HTH

You can get very satisfactory results with Model Master paints (and even standard Testors paints) if you're willing to step up to an airbrush. In my experience, it's better to buy the paint in bottle form and reduce it with lacquer thinner for airbrush use, but you can also decant rattle can paint into a jar and airbrush it. Check YouTube for some Donn Yost videos. IIRC, he uses Model Master paints almost exclusively.

I know they used to offer one. It was based on the original AMT '68 Shelby tooling and still had two recessed areas for the separate clear-red tail lights. I was going to suggest this piece to another member as an upgrade for the kit he's refurbishing, but I don't see it listed in their online catalog. They do, however, still list the tail lights. If they don't offer it anymore, are there any other casters who do?

If the paint has actually crazed the plastic, it's going to take more than stripping the paint to salvage the project. I'll let the styrene experts tell you how to address that, but I'm curious what you meant by a "redo". Are there sentimental reasons making you want to redo this particular kit? Would you be averse to obtaining a more current release of this kit for parts if needed? (The front bumper looks a little abraded). This kit can turn out very nicely for its age, provided that the builder uses good reference materials (printed Google pics of professional restorations & Shelby club meets etc) Couple other ideas that may improve your build: 1) Since you'll be getting rid of the paint, your silver trim will go with it. If you haven't tried Bare Metal Foil, this car would be a decent one to learn on. 2) If you need help finding a non-crazing paint, we've got all kinds of opinions here. I'll be interested to see what all you do with this.

I'm not necessarily looking for an answer to this question (unless you actually happen to know it) but I wonder why Tamiya chose the creamier white to be "Racing White".

Perhaps you meant TR7 Oh wait, you said faster. Never mind.

I see that Tamiya has two gloss white spray lacquers: TS7 is listed as Racing White while TS26 is simply listed as White. I assume there's a discernible difference. I'd love to see pics of both if you have them.

Welcome to our board, John! Looks like you've done an outstanding job on that old Ford. The build quality is more than evident and the paint scheme you chose really sets off the lines of the car. Any chance we could have a few more pictures? Close-ups of the interior, engine and chassis would be nice.

One of my all-time favorite race cars. When they first came out, I was astounded by the design and the audacity (6 wheels!) While this will always be my favorite livery, I can't wait to see how yours turns out. Looks like you've got a great start already.

Since most washer fluid bottles are a semi-translucent white, you'll probably want to start with a flat paint. I've also seen Richard's technique (post #2) done with acrylic candy blue airbrushed on first, followed by a mist coat of flat white.

Go to Wal-Mart and grab a pack of white plastic spoons. You can test paint/primer combinations far more cheaply that way.

Joe, I generally start off each engine wiring project by Googling pictures of the cylinder heads that will be used on the model's engine. Looks like you've got a 409, so we'll use this as a reference. Use the Google pic as a guide for drilling the spark plug holes. If memory serves, a =# 74 bit should work here. If you drill the holes deep into the head, it'll allow you to take up a little slack, if necessary. I secure my plug wires in the distributor, then route them to the plug holes. Don't make them too tight; leave enough length for the "sag" others have mentioned. Once you're happy with the length, you can glue them in. When you're ready to step up another level, you can route the wires according to the car's firing order. Also, some of the better model plug wire kits come with 1 size larger hollow tubing that can be used at both ends of the plug wire, kinda like these.

I saw someone post some Pegasus tires, so I assume these'll be OK. They're probably the best Radial T/As you'll ever come across and they're made by our own Chief Joseph. The tire depicted is cast in white resin and painted. Sand the tops of the letters off and voila! They're available in a number of sizes and 2 compounds. He's also got some white outline tires that are perfect for mid-'80s cars (Monte Carlo SS etc). Find these tires, wheels and more here http://www.fireballmodels.info/

I agree! I'll take mine in black.

I wonder what engines AMT, MPC & Revellogram put into their respective post-'77 Broncos. Wiki claims the 351M & 351W were options along the way. If memory serves a 351M should be close in appearance to a 351C.

If I understand what you're saying, the fact that you're seeing graininess after burnishing tells me the area being foiled probably has an uneven texture on the surface (overspray, orange peel etc). BMF is thin enough that these things will show through, so any trim like drip rails, window surrounds etc that you're going to cover should be sanded smooth with a light-grade polishing cloth before applying the foil. I doubt this applies to your situation, but I've also seen modelers really mangle BMF around vent windows because they get in a hurry trying to cover all the surfaces. Some looked like they tried to chrome a miniature accordion.

I believe it is. I, ummm, stole the pic off some Eastern European site

Doesn't sound stupid at all. 40-some years ago I had the GMC version of this kit and, although I'm glad to see this one out again, I'd feel the same way as you if they'd repopped the Jimmy. I'm also glad someone has been digging through the old AMT molds 'cuz up until a couple years ago I thought I'd never get another chance to build the Freightliner cabover I'd had in my youth. I wouldn't/couldn't pay what the ebay scalpers wanted, so I figured I'd learn to live without it. When they came out again at a realistic price, I made sure I grabbed two. Kinda strange what memories we attach to these things.

I swear I learn something new here every day. I knew you'd used something other than white model paint. That interior looks awesome. Thanks!

I'm not convinced TS-9 is gonna do it for you. Here's a Jag w/ TS-9 over a light primer Tamiya non-metallics seem to be fairly opaque, so I'm not sure if even using a black primer with TS-9 would get you the shade of green on that Mustang. Testors Fathom Green (GM color) would be a lot closer.

I had you figured for more of an analog guy & this looks digital. Is there a lefthanded version for those of us who build Japanese kits?