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Miatatom

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Everything posted by Miatatom

  1. I think there's a remedy that might help. Old Trucker and I agree, shorten the races to fit into a 2 hour window like F1 and people might come back. Yes, it used to be an endurance race but now, it's just try to last, save your equipment till the last few laps and go for it. Even Dale Jr. once said the races were too long.
  2. Not laughing at you Rob, but this whole badging thing for the cars is a joke. They're purpose built, tube frame race cars with bodies that are almost identical, not to the car they're supposed to represent, but to each other. They had to go to the Camaro Mustang thing because Ford isn't going to build any more sedans. Bye Fusion, Taurus, etc.
  3. They've ruled over Nastycar like a group of dictators and run what was a pretty good racing series into the ground with gimmicks to "create drama". I hope someone who knows what they're doing can straighten it out. I haven't watched a lap this year and I used to watch all the races.
  4. Great pics! I saw my first race at Greenville Pickens in '56. Sat on the flatbed of the Dover Cylinder Heads truck on the back straight. I don't even remember a fence between us and the cars. NONE of the old cars had anything approaching roll cages in these cars.
  5. Lots of builders recommend straining or filtering paint before shooting it. Some paint companies recommend it too. How does everyone accomplish this, what equipment do you use, etc. TIA
  6. Super execution! If it were 1:1, it would be the most dangerous evil handling beast on the street.
  7. I agree guys, someone ought to build it. They'd sell.
  8. Scalefnishes 67 Ford Acapulco Blue and 67 GTX dark red.
  9. Get a small bottle of the Liquitex Flow Aid and try it. Michaels has it,
  10. I'll disagree with the windshield washer fluid. I've tried it and can't get the hang of it. I recommend Liquitex Flow Aid mixed with craft acrylics.
  11. Thanks, Bill! When I clicked on the link, I found this at the bottom. https://www.ebay.com/itm/SEAT-NASCAR-STYLE-RACING-SEAT-1-25-SCALE-GRAY/392020024186 A little trimming and it'll look very similar to the 1:1 and it's only $3.50
  12. Cool video. Take time to watch the camera shot in the lower right corner of the driver. That Vette is so stable accelerating through the turns or flat out at speed. Pretty Impressive.
  13. Yeah, that's a given. I typically don't use wax. I've got some but with race cars, the finish should be shiny, but not too glossy. Race cars are about 90% of my inventory.
  14. That'll be my initial strategy, Art. Just wondered about the clear, provided that I feel I need it. Both of the colors I ordered are metallics.
  15. I'm building a replica of the Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite. It had an aluminum racing seat. Here's a pic. Anyone know a source in 1/25?
  16. I'm using the exact same products. Thanks for sharing!
  17. Just ordered some paint from Scalefinishes. The Scalefinishes home page says that their gloss enamel is an automotive acrylic enamel. What types of primer and clear coat can I use with them?
  18. Ditto on all the positive comments. Color choice, finish and attention to detail such as the floor mat part of the floor being a little darker really makes this one stand above.
  19. Thanks, Bill. That's all I needed to hear. I don't need thicker layers.
  20. I've seen this term used many times on the forum with high approval results. I've done a search and came up with numerous brands. It's obvious 2K clear is a generic term for a type of clear. Am I wrong? Is there a preferred brand for modelers?
  21. Had a friend that would loan me his 1 year old 72 240Z occasionally and raced a 71 510. Love those cars and I've already watched the first episode of the show. The show's OK, the cars are super.
  22. What are you using the double sided art tape for?
  23. I still use mine for chassis and some interior parts. You won't be sorry.
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