Revell Channelled '29 Ford Roadster - Update 04-16-17

[Bernard Kron]

Several years ago, when I was just getting back into modeling, I mocked up a channeled ’29 Ford Roadster hot rod in Photoshop. I used an image of a black highboy I found on the web and cut, paste and colorized until I got the image I liked. The picture has stuck with me despite the fact I never got around to building it.

With the release of the Revell ’29 Ford Roadster with its channeled option the need to build something like the “’Lil Red Roadster” hit me once again, especially since Revell’s channeled version had quite a few things about it that I thought needed changing, especially the enormous ground clearance. So, with the greatest apologies to Tim Boyd, whose image I have stolen, here’s a before and after Photoshop mockup showing a very crude lowering job. All I did was “cut out” the wheels and ground line from the rest of the car’s image and then lowered everything around the wheels – it’s the same thing I did to make the original ‘Lil Red Roadster.

As you can see there’s a bit more rake than the LRR but otherwise the lowering isn’t too far off. For reference I noted the fact that the top of the rear tire now sits just at the upper body molding.

So I then measured the distance between the original position of the rear tire and the raised position. This would be the amount I would need to increase the Z at the rear of the Revell kit frame. It worked out to about .152 inches. Allowing for the kerf on my Zona zaw of about .003 inches I could use some .156 x .080 inch styrene strip and insert additional height to the factory Z (fig. 1 and 2). Then, to reinforce the new joint I inserted some of the same material across the frame to increase the glue area (fig. 3). After the usual sanding and shaping (fig. 4) I added some .010 inch strip on either side of the joint to finish it out and add a little more reinforcement (fig. 5).

It’s now standard operating procedure to cut the wheel well panels from the interior sides if you contemplate any sort of modification to the Revell ‘29 kit. So I did that before removing additional material from the wheel well panels to accommodate the raised Z on the frame.

To lower the front end I reversed the front cross member and cut 3 leaves from the front spring. I decided that I wanted a more traditional rear suspension to go with the general retro-funk of the LRR so I installed a rear crossmember and spring from a Revellogram ’37 Ford Panel Truck which has been mercilessly raided over the years for its parts. The rear axle will be removed and I’ll be using the kit axle instead.

That’s it so far. I still haven’t gotten it up on its wheels so I don’t know how low I’ve gotten it, or whether the stance bears any resemblance to either mockups. One ,thing is clear already and that is that I must use the tires that came with the kit. They are perfect for this type of build. For the rear wheels I probably will switch out to some deep dish reversed steelies as shown in the picture above. Those are 9” 60’s stock car wheels from Plastic Performance Parts.

I still haven’t decided whether to stick with the flathead in the original ‘Lil Red Roadster image or to use the kit nailhead. I’m leaning towards the flattie, but then I have to decide to keep it fairly crude as in the LRR mockup, or maybe make it a bit more nicely turned out with finned heads, etc. Once I get it up on its wheels I have no doubt that the ‘Lil Red Roadster will let me know what’s right.

Thanks for lookin’,
B.

Edited April 17, 2017 by Bernard Kron

[DrKerry]

Nice, I'll be watching Bernard!!!!!!!

[exesivefire]

Should be a fun one to watch 

[mod3l Lover]

   Oh yeah, . . . I likey-likey! I have also wanted to

do one like that for a long time.

   And I think that will be next on my list for sure!

      

       David S.

[Dennis Lacy]

Slammed is exactly how the channeled version needs to sit.

Based on the position of the front axle after your frame and spring modifications it doesn't look like it's gonna be anywhere near low enough. Based on your photo shopped side view it looks like the wheel center is 1/8" + above the top of the frame rail. As beautiful as it is, the front axle in this kit (with its molded spring representing a stock, non-reversed main leaf and therefor leaving a large air gap between the axle and spring) isn't very conducive to getting a car low. Looks like you're gonna need to swap out the spring to something much flatter and closer to the top of the axle.

You might also consider ditching the upside down kit front cross member and replace it with the nearly flat member from a Revell '32 frame. As it is now, it's not very friendly for mounting a radiator.

[crazyrichard]

nice !

[Bernard Kron]

Slammed is exactly how the channeled version needs to sit.

Based on the position of the front axle after your frame and spring modifications it doesn't look like it's gonna be anywhere near low enough. Based on your photo shopped side view it looks like the wheel center is 1/8" + above the top of the frame rail. As beautiful as it is, the front axle in this kit (with its molded spring representing a stock, non-reversed main leaf and therefor leaving a large air gap between the axle and spring) isn't very conducive to getting a car low. Looks like you're gonna need to swap out the spring to something much flatter and closer to the top of the axle.

You might also consider ditching the upside down kit front cross member and replace it with the nearly flat member from a Revell '32 frame. As it is now, it's not very friendly for mounting a radiator.

It's always the case in my experience that you don't know diddly until you get the car up on its wheels and tires - it's an iron rule. I'm guessing you're right on all counts, that I'll probably have to move the rear suspensions upwards more than the Z will account for, and that the reversed front cross member will cause more trouble than its worth. In which case I'll have to use something more practical (although I'm running out of Revell Deuce chassis to butcher) and, as a result, take some more height out of that front spring setup. That's why I like to Photoshop mockups - you avoid the practical compromises and get down to the pure look. Now for the hard part!

Edited December 5, 2015 by Bernard Kron

[Ace-Garageguy]

Love your concept and Photoshop mockups. Dennis is right about this kit being challenging to get really low, however. 

One approach, made easier because the frame is already over-long and the grill shell is already too far forward on the kit as-is, is to go with a suicide front perch and pull the grille shell back to where it will clear everything, and improving the proportions in the process. Putting the spring behind the axle is another way to get some lowness, but either method requires more fabrication and a wheelbase adjustment to keep things balanced (and looking like your spot-on top P-shop mockup).

I did a lot of cut-and-paste fitting on my similarly low '26 on the same rails you're using, and put it aside temporarily towards the end of the decision-making process (but after getting the stance nailed and measurements I could go back to to hit it dead-on again).   http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/105644-26-ford-rod-based-on-new-revell-29-bits-sept-15-third-mockup/

Edited December 5, 2015 by Ace-Garageguy

[Jantrix]

I'll be paying attention here. After finishing my RPU, I'm going to use the pickup Model A chassis and suspension under the roadster body. It's going to be z'd to get it very low.

One thing though Bernard, how far off the pavement is that oil pan now? Are you going to raise the engine?

[James2]

I always enjoy your snip and tuck technics. 

[afx]

You know waaay more about hot rods than I do Bernard, but I never cared for the look with the rear tire above the body line.  On a turtle deck okay but not a '29.  Looks like you aren't going quite as low as your original concept.

[squirrel886]

Lookin good so far Bernard and I love the PS rendering. 

I looked into getting this kit as low as possible also.  Z'ing the rear wasn't a problem, but I couldn't figure out the front end because of the kit's front axle as others have stated.  

 

One possibility I came came up with, the suicide perch up front, but to keep the proportions even, I was going to leave off the grille, mount the radiator in the trunk, and splice in the louvered trunk from the Revell '32 5w. 

(I'm still working on the first build figuring out to correct some issues, but I'm hoping to have it finished soon.  I plan on being at NNL in Santa Clara, hope to see you there again.)

[tim boyd]

Bernard....so glad to see you finally digging into this kit...whichever way you end up going I know it is going to deliver a killer result.  

Earlier this week I did a "double Z" to the rear of the Model A frame with the start of my sixth build of this kit.  I did it by gluing a 2nd '29A roadster frame on top of the first, then cutting away the lower back half of the original chassis, but the result is very similar to yours.  I also did a "Z" on the front part of the frame rails (just ahead of the engine mounts), again gluing the front of the second frame on top of the first frame, then cutting away the far forward portion of the bottom frame.  

Haven't decided how I plan to go forward from here yet...but possibilities include a Navarro flathead, a blown early Olds, or maybe just the Nailhead with the intake/carbs/spark plug covers from the old AMT Trophy Series "32 Ford Custom/'40 Willys" kit.  Most likely it will also include a Model A rear crossmember and full Quickchange/transverse leaf spring setup...probably based on the Replicas and Miniatures of Maryland parts catalogue.  

Can't wait to see how your project evolves.   Cheers....TIM 

 

[squirrel886]

Bernard....so glad to see you finally digging into this kit...whichever way you end up going I know it is going to deliver a killer result.  

Earlier this week I did a "double Z" to the rear of the Model A frame with the start of my sixth build of this kit.  I did it by gluing a 2nd '29A roadster frame on top of the first, then cutting away the lower back half of the original chassis, but the result is very similar to yours.  I also did a "Z" on the front part of the frame rails (just ahead of the engine mounts), again gluing the front of the second frame on top of the first frame, then cutting away the far forward portion of the bottom frame.  

Haven't decided how I plan to go forward from here yet...but possibilities include a Navarro flathead, a blown early Olds, or maybe just the Nailhead with the intake/carbs/spark plug covers from the old AMT Trophy Series "32 Ford Custom/'40 Willys" kit.  Most likely it will also include a Model A rear crossmember and full Quickchange/transverse leaf spring setup...probably based on the Replicas and Miniatures of Maryland parts catalogue.  

Can't wait to see how your project evolves.   Cheers....TIM 

 

I don't feel like a hoarder now since I have 7 kits and Tim just started his 6th build of this kit.  

[Dennis Lacy]

I don't feel like a hoarder now since I have 7 kits and Tim just started his 6th build of this kit.  

I'm starting to feel inadequate because I have only bought two, so far. I did just get some birthday Visa gift cards and it is the weekend. Might have to head to Pegasus so I can catch up!

[curt raitz]

Hey Buddy

This is gonna be fun.

I picked up this model recently, don't know why...but had a hankering to build one.

I liked the channeled version, but it sure didn't looked "channeled" plus the instructions (I know) are a wee bit confusing.

Enjoying the input so far, hope to build one of these soon

c'ya

[tim boyd]

Hey Buddy

This is gonna be fun.

I picked up this model recently, don't know why...but had a hankering to build one.

I liked the channeled version, but it sure didn't looked "channeled" plus the instructions (I know) are a wee bit confusing.

Enjoying the input so far, hope to build one of these soon

c'ya

Curt....we'll be watching for yours, too.  

For what it's worth, my own view is that the kit instructions are very straight forward.  (I realize not everyone agrees with me on this).  Just remember that for the channeled version, it uses the same floorpan (part #62) as the highboy vresion.  I had no other issues during assembly at all.  

The instructions say to use part #13 for the channeled version; it's shaped entirely different and does not fit at all.  (Part 13 is for a second, future  version of the basic tool that has a different body).  Once I figured this out (and checked with Revell to confirm I was right), I pulled out the instruction sheets for every kit I bought and made the change so I wouldn't forget even if I built the kit years later.  

Cheers...TIM     .  

[Phildaupho]

Good to see you tackling this project. I am curious to see how you resolve the stance and proportions. I really like how this kit has generated so many individual interpretations.    

[squirrel886]

Dennis, I'm sure you'll have quite a few before too long. 

 

Bernard, here's my front axle after I shaved a few leafs off.  

[Mr. Metallic]

Bernard, I would stick with the "stock" heads like you have in the picture, and some kind of mild intake setup (a two into one or two carb setup). You pshopped concept looks cool, stick with it!

[Bernard Kron]

It’s been over a year since I touched this project. Frankly I found getting a decent stance out of the channeled variant of the Revell Ford ’29-A Roadster a bit frustrating, and just when I started to tame it, it “stopped speaking to me”, so I set it aside. Some 7 or 8 completed projects later, while I wait for the decal paper for my ’56 Oval VW Bug project to arrive, I decided to look it over. To my surprise I’d forgotten just how much progress I had made on it when I stopped. I only did one post so I hadn’t done an update post. Updates often help me focus on where I’m at in a project and what needs to be done. So when I cracked open the box this morning I was pleased to see I had done quite a bit of important sub-assembly work, to such a degree that all that was left was paint and final assembly. Even some of the paint had been done.

So today I .did the rest of the paint work and then took some photos of the status of things as I resume this stalled build. The chassis and front suspension were completed last year so I painted the chassis Duplicolor Gloss Black and the floor panels Testors Metalizer Titanium. The interior is the stock kit interior with the exception of the windshield and dashboard. I wanted to save them for the highboy version so I chopped and modified an AMT ’29 Ford Roadster Ala-Kart piece to fit. This was another detail completed last year which today got painted gloss black and Krylon Chrome. It’ll get a photo-etch instrument panel. The kit seat and interior panels were painted today in Testors Acryl Leather textured to look somewhat weathered. The wheels and tires are from the kit but I didn’t think Buick finned brake drums were in keeping with the build concept so I had modified them to take simple ’40 Ford backing plates. Like the original concept drawing, they’re finished in gloss black. The Ford Flathead V8 is a Revell piece from my stash, probably from a ’40 Ford Standard. I kept the stock heads but finished them in Testors Metalizer Steel to resemble Ford high compression aluminum “Denver” truck heads, a popular cheapo hop up in the early 50’s for hot rodders on a budget. The intake manifold is a twin carb Edelbrock-style piece from a Revell ’40 Ford Street Rod Coupe kit. It will get high-flow exhaust manifolds taken from the same kit. The rest of the exhaust system will be adapted from the basic Revell ’29 Ford kit. The kit firewall is gloss black and I stripped the kit’s chrome grill shell and finished it in Duplicolor Flash Red to match the bodywork.

I had gone so far as to color sand and polish out the main body last year. In the ensuing period it had picked up a a few nicks and thin spots so I shot a light coat of Flash Red and gave it two coats of Duplicolor Clear Gloss today. After a few days to cure and harden I’ll give it a final polish. The rear suspension is still somewhat up in the air. I landed up pinching the ’37 Ford rear axle for another project. I’ll decide in the next day or two whether to use the kit’s modern Ford rear end or snag a banjo unit from another ’37 Ford kit. But really, I’m pretty much down to final assembly. Hopefully the stance will cooperate and I’ll land up with something resembling the Lil’ Red Roadster…

Thanx for lookin’,
B.

[Ace-Garageguy]

Missed this one earlier, great to see it back. Really low flathead-powered '29s are a special breed, and as usual, you're going the extra mile to get the period look and details spot on. Looking forward to seeing this one come all the way together. 

[Kit Karson]

Been wondering when someone would step and take this ugly roadster and pretty it up a bit!?. -KK

[Randy D]

Look forward to you finishing this one up Bernard !!!

 

Randy

[Bernard Kron]

Thanks KK, Bill and Randy!

I’m pretty close to done. The chassis and motor are completed and glued together. The interior is largely finished. The most critical part seems to have been getting the body to sit right on the frame after the engine swap. I think I got it. Lights and detailing are still to do, but I’m probably max 2-3 hours of bench time away now. Here are snaps.

Thanx for lookin’,
B.

Edited April 16, 2017 by Bernard Kron