Wheel Arch Moldings

[StevenGuthmiller]

I was just in the process of beginning the foil on my current project and thought that this tip might be helpful to some members.

I have heard some people voice their contempt for foiling wheel well moldings, but this technique may help make it a little easier.

It helps a lot for me.

As a matter of fact, I use it for a large portion of the exterior trim on my builds.

 

First cut a piece of foil large enough to cover the entire wheel opening.

Then cut a very thin strip of blue painters tape and lay it along the edge of the trim where you want your cut to be.

Let the edge of the tape be your guide for the tip of your knife blade to ride against.

 

I have been using this technique for many years and it always provides consistent results for me.

 

It's simple really, but it's much easier and more accurate than free handing.

 

 

Steve

 

 

[Muncie]

That's a great tip! It's going to get used around here.

[Snake45]

I've sometimes done the same thing. I've also put the guide strip on before the foil. You can still see and follow the edge, AND when you take the masking strip off, the excess foil adhesive residue comes up with it--nothing to clean up! 

[NOBLNG]

Terrific tip! as I was reading it, I was imagining the tape underneath the foil. I was going to question you Steven if that would also work, but I see Richard has answered that for me. Thank Guys! 

[StevenGuthmiller]

18 minutes ago, NOBLNG said:

Terrific tip! as I was reading it, I was imagining the tape underneath the foil. I was going to question you Steven if that would also work, but I see Richard has answered that for me. Thank Guys! 

Part of the reason that I put the tape on the outside of the foil is, not only does the tape edge give something for the blade to ride against, but the blue color creates a contrast between the foil, the tape and the blade to make it easier to see what you're doing while you're cutting.

Many times the unwanted piece of foil will come off when you pull the tape off anyway, and I usually clean off any foil adhesive residue later with a dab of WD-40 on a Q-tip.

 

 

Steve

[StevenGuthmiller]

This works well for all sorts of moldings.

 

Steve

 

[restoman]

I do most of my foil work this way. It's a great way for old eyes and slightly shaky hands!

[Snake45]

3 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

I usually clean off any foil adhesive residue later with a dab of WD-40 on a Q-tip.

Steve

I need to try that. I clean up foil residue with rubbing alcohol, but that can damage/remove Testor lacquers and many acrylics. I'll have to test WD-40 on them. 

[StevenGuthmiller]

2 hours ago, Snake45 said:

I need to try that. I clean up foil residue with rubbing alcohol, but that can damage/remove Testor lacquers and many acrylics. I'll have to test WD-40 on them. 

WD-40 takes it right off.

I highly doubt that it will be an issue with any paints.

I know for a fact that it will not harm Testors lacquer.

 

Steve

[peteski]

Funny, I've been using this technique (but with the masking tape under the foil, not over) for years. It work really well for me (and no foil residue, and futzing with WD-40 on my paint job), but I might try it your way Steve.

Edited January 23, 2019 by peteski

[Tommy124]

Thanks for the tip Steve! This comes at the right time as I will start with the BMF on my 69 Camaro one of these days. Really great and simple and one of those why-did-I-not-come-up-with-that-myself things... 

[Jim N]

Thanks for providing the tip Steve.  I have been thinking of trying this for a while now (I build primarily race cars and these don't require foil) when I build a street car.  Your post confirms that this will work.  Thanks again.

[Mike C]

That's a great tip!

[W-409]

This is a great tip. I always seem to struggle when trying to BMF long straight moldings (a side trim for example). I will definitely try this on my next build, thanks!

[my66s55]

6 minutes ago, W-409 said:

This is a great tip. I always seem to struggle when trying to BMF long straight moldings (a side trim for example). I will definitely try this on my next build, thanks!

I'm with you Niko. I dread foiling. I was just getting ready to foil the side trim on my 64 Cutlass when Steve posted this. I have used tape under the foil, now I'll use it over so that I can better see what I am doing. Great tip Steve.

[StevenGuthmiller]

8 hours ago, my66s55 said:

I'm with you Niko. I dread foiling. I was just getting ready to foil the side trim on my 64 Cutlass when Steve posted this. I have used tape under the foil, now I'll use it over so that I can better see what I am doing. Great tip Steve.

If by chance you have problems Doug, I would not object to you sending the '64 Cutlass to me!

 

 

Steve

Edited January 24, 2019 by StevenGuthmiller

[vintagercr]

Wonderful tip

[br67]

Thanks for tip Steve - what width is the tape in these pics?

[StevenGuthmiller]

2 hours ago, br67 said:

Thanks for tip Steve - what width is the tape in these pics?

 

I use regular 1 inch blue painters tape cut into whatever size strips I need with a straight edge.

Wider strips work fine for straight trim, but the thinner the better for curved areas like wheel arches.

Thinner strips are easier to get to conform to curved areas such as this.

 

Steve

[MrObsessive]

Thanks for that tip Steve! Just goes to show that even after many years of building, there's always something neat and new to find out! I'd like to have learned that trick when I had to create wheel arch mouldings for my '67 Mustang GT build.

They were non existent so I had to scratchbuild those. There was a little bit of a 'lip' as I made them, but that tape would have made a much more stable 'guide' when it came time to do the BMF. Next time I get to the hardware store, I'll be picking that tape up!

[br67]

4 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

 

I use regular 1 inch blue painters tape cut into whatever size strips I need with a straight edge.

Wider strips work fine for straight trim, but the thinner the better for curved areas like wheel arches.

Thinner strips are easier to get to conform to curved areas such as this.

 

Steve

Thank you sir

[peteski]

On 1/27/2019 at 3:29 AM, MrObsessive said:

 

They were non existent so I had to scratchbuild those. There was a little bit of a 'lip' as I made them, but that tape would have made a much more stable 'guide' when it came time to do the BMF. Next time I get to the hardware store, I'll be picking that tape up!

I have been using the Blue Painter's tape in my modeling for years, and only the name brand stuff (no generics from the dollar store).  It has a less aggressive adhesive than the regular tan-color masking tape. I use Tamiya tape for paint masking.

[ChrisBcritter]

That's a great tip, Steven - especially with moldings that have been a bit buried under the paint. I've been dreading doing the side trim on my '64 Caddy, but this may save me. Thanks!

Edited February 6, 2019 by ChrisBcritter

[StevenGuthmiller]

9 hours ago, ChrisBcritter said:

That's a great tip, Steven - especially with moldings that have been a bit buried under the paint. I've been dreading doing the side trim on my '64 Caddy, but this may save me. Thanks!

It’s a great alternative to scribing all of your body trim before painting.

And even if I do scribe some of the trim, I still use this tape method .

It insures perfectly straight cuts if done correctly.

You should have no problem getting nice straight trim on your ‘64 Caddy. 

 

 

Steve

[iBorg]

Why didn't I think of that?